This summer I've had a large balcony garden on my apartment balcony. There are a few plants that I'd like to bring inside over the winter to save. I've done a bit of research on indoor lighting but would like some experienced advice before I invest in something and find it doesn't work. I'd also like some basic advice on lighting as well as bringing plants from indoors to outdoors.
It seems like the best bet for lighting is going to be metal halide or sodium vapor lights, as they cover the whole spectrum of light with minimal heat and are bright.
It seems fluorescent lights that cover the full spectrum of light could also work but can be dimmer.
Incandescent lights are overall a bad idea, I've read.
All of my plants are shade loving plants and have done well with no direct sunlight or at most a few hours of evening sunlight on my balcony. If you need specific plants, the one I'm most interested in saving would be my Lipstick Plant. I'd also love to keep some of the catnip alive for as long as possible for my cats. I'm contemplating moving the forget me nots inside as well, and possibly the Rex Begonia.
Does plant type matter at all when considering indoor lighting options? Since they've all done well in shady environments, should I go with a dimmer fluorescent light, or should I go for the brighter sodium halide type lights?
What kind of fixture do you put the lights in? Should I do a stand lamp, or a hanging fixture, or something else entirely? How far from the plants do I want the light to be placed? How many hours per day should the light be on the plants?
Is there any special care I should give the plants upon moving them indoors from being outdoors all summer?
I would be hanging the plants on the ceiling. None of my windows get any actual direct sunlight. If I'm using artificial lighting, do they even need to be by a window that gives no direct sunlight, or can I put them (and the light/s) anywhere I want in the apartment?
Thank you so much for the help, I look forward to enjoying my plants all winter and watching them grow even larger next year.
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applestar
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I only have experience with fluorescent lights. I also tend to use them to supplement direct sunlight from the windows and cluster my plants at various windlows of my house according to the amount of light and warmth they need.
Pay attention to optimum winter temps -- especially for plants like Lipstick plant. I keep my tropicals that need mid-60's or above upstairs and citrus and rosemary, fuchsia, etc. temperate plants that prefer cooler winter temps downstairs. Your biggest challenge would be to provide sufficient humidity for plants like Rex begonia. Some people keep humidity loving plants in bathroom or kitchen.
If you are providing sufficient artificial light, they don't have to get natural sunlight, although I think they are healthier if they do. But plants that need full sun will require extraordinary efforts to keep alive indoors, so you are more likely to succeed with plants that would be happy with only partial sun. Some plants like the Rex would not do well with direct sunlight anyway.
I basically turn the lights on in the morning when I get up and turn them off when I go to bed. It's better to actually turn them on and off becaus then you will be looking at your plants twice a day and be able to spot any trouble -- and I do that for plants that require close attention, but I admit I do use timers for plants that are less fussy.
I use fluorescent shop light fixtures (tubes) hung from the ceiling on chains as well as clamp on utility light fixtures (cfl bulbs). In both cases, you want the light blb/tube to be 2-4 inches from the foliage, so "adjustable" is what you want. Look for daylight 6500K and at least 26W in compact fluorescents. For the tube fixture, T-5's are brightest but I get by with T-12's.
The clamp on lights are used sometimes From the side or even below. When I lived in an apartment, I once affixed tube fixtures on the wall and covered a corner wall with mirror tiles for reflected light. I use aluminum pans and foil to add reflected light to individual plants on the side away from the window. In all cases, be sure to rotate the plant 1/4 turn every few days so they grow evenly. Try to line the plant area surfaces with white or Mylar for brightest ambient light. Inside of potato and tortilla chip bags work too.
Catnip -- where do you live? In my zone 6b garden, catnip is perennial and grow back every year. I'm not sure if it would survive in a container on a balcony here, but further south, it probably would. I harvest all I can during the summer months and dry most, but also freeze some for my cats to eat tender leaves and flowers during the winter.
Pay attention to optimum winter temps -- especially for plants like Lipstick plant. I keep my tropicals that need mid-60's or above upstairs and citrus and rosemary, fuchsia, etc. temperate plants that prefer cooler winter temps downstairs. Your biggest challenge would be to provide sufficient humidity for plants like Rex begonia. Some people keep humidity loving plants in bathroom or kitchen.
If you are providing sufficient artificial light, they don't have to get natural sunlight, although I think they are healthier if they do. But plants that need full sun will require extraordinary efforts to keep alive indoors, so you are more likely to succeed with plants that would be happy with only partial sun. Some plants like the Rex would not do well with direct sunlight anyway.
I basically turn the lights on in the morning when I get up and turn them off when I go to bed. It's better to actually turn them on and off becaus then you will be looking at your plants twice a day and be able to spot any trouble -- and I do that for plants that require close attention, but I admit I do use timers for plants that are less fussy.
I use fluorescent shop light fixtures (tubes) hung from the ceiling on chains as well as clamp on utility light fixtures (cfl bulbs). In both cases, you want the light blb/tube to be 2-4 inches from the foliage, so "adjustable" is what you want. Look for daylight 6500K and at least 26W in compact fluorescents. For the tube fixture, T-5's are brightest but I get by with T-12's.
The clamp on lights are used sometimes From the side or even below. When I lived in an apartment, I once affixed tube fixtures on the wall and covered a corner wall with mirror tiles for reflected light. I use aluminum pans and foil to add reflected light to individual plants on the side away from the window. In all cases, be sure to rotate the plant 1/4 turn every few days so they grow evenly. Try to line the plant area surfaces with white or Mylar for brightest ambient light. Inside of potato and tortilla chip bags work too.
Catnip -- where do you live? In my zone 6b garden, catnip is perennial and grow back every year. I'm not sure if it would survive in a container on a balcony here, but further south, it probably would. I harvest all I can during the summer months and dry most, but also freeze some for my cats to eat tender leaves and flowers during the winter.
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rainbowgardener
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Applestar has given you a very good answer. I will just say that the metal halide or sodium lamps while giving you a better chance of keeping a full sun lover alive indoors are not only expensive to buy but very power hungry so expensive to run as well.
I also just use fluorescents, tubes and spots. You are right, nothing incandescent. If you get the light close enough to do any good, you will burn your plants up; they give off too much heat.
I have a multi head floor lamp about like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Room-Essentials-5-2dHead-Floor-Lamp/dp/B000WUXQAY
but with all white shades. It is height adjustable and all the heads are on flexible necks. So you can put some light where you want it most, move it around, etc.
I also just use fluorescents, tubes and spots. You are right, nothing incandescent. If you get the light close enough to do any good, you will burn your plants up; they give off too much heat.
I have a multi head floor lamp about like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Room-Essentials-5-2dHead-Floor-Lamp/dp/B000WUXQAY
but with all white shades. It is height adjustable and all the heads are on flexible necks. So you can put some light where you want it most, move it around, etc.
Thank you for the wonderful answers. I had no idea the light had to be so close to the plant. It also seems I can get with the fluorescent lights since my plants are all shade loving plants anyway (or have done well in the shade, regardless).
For the humidity, the only one I treat specially is the lipstick plant. I currently mist it very heavily with water (to the point its dripping) every day or two). I'd planned on continuing misting to a lesser degree when I moved it inside. The other plants have done well outside without any extra attention, and I don't think I live in a particularly humid area. I'll watch the plants when I move them in for signs they need more humidity though. I did research these plants extensively when I bought them this year to be sure they were non toxic to cats and did well in shade, but I didn't go into wintering conditions so I will look into that as well. Thank you for the suggestion.
For the catnip, I live in mid eastern Wisconsin. Looking at growing zone charts online, it looks to be in zone 4b. That looks to be much further north than you. Some research I've done seems to suggest the best way to winter catnip is to cut it down to about 4 inches after the first frost and leave it outside. They say it comes back after snow and frost go away. I may just try this since I usually buy seeds every spring anyway. If this doesn't work this year I can explore other wintering options next year.
That example of what lamp to use is helpful, thanks. I'm still not sure if I want to hang fluorescent tubes or go with a lamp type option. I'll need to look into pricing and exact positioning of the plants I bring indoors first.
For the humidity, the only one I treat specially is the lipstick plant. I currently mist it very heavily with water (to the point its dripping) every day or two). I'd planned on continuing misting to a lesser degree when I moved it inside. The other plants have done well outside without any extra attention, and I don't think I live in a particularly humid area. I'll watch the plants when I move them in for signs they need more humidity though. I did research these plants extensively when I bought them this year to be sure they were non toxic to cats and did well in shade, but I didn't go into wintering conditions so I will look into that as well. Thank you for the suggestion.
For the catnip, I live in mid eastern Wisconsin. Looking at growing zone charts online, it looks to be in zone 4b. That looks to be much further north than you. Some research I've done seems to suggest the best way to winter catnip is to cut it down to about 4 inches after the first frost and leave it outside. They say it comes back after snow and frost go away. I may just try this since I usually buy seeds every spring anyway. If this doesn't work this year I can explore other wintering options next year.
That example of what lamp to use is helpful, thanks. I'm still not sure if I want to hang fluorescent tubes or go with a lamp type option. I'll need to look into pricing and exact positioning of the plants I bring indoors first.