I'm in Kentucky and I have some questions to ask.
I would like to start container gardening on my front porch. The sun rises facing this direction.
I guess my questions are: When should I start? I'm new to Kentucky and I know nothing about the weather patterns, when winter ends around here and when spring begins.
I don't know much about plants anymore, I haven't had a garden since I was a little girl. So my second question is, what flowers in this region are good for newbies and when should I start planting?
Um.. I think that's all for now. I didn't want to ask these sorts of questions at Lowes where they would push all sorts of stuff on me ~_~ I already have two containers waiting outside to be filled with goodness. <3
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hendi_alex
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I assume you are in zone seven or zone eight, but you need to check. In any event, morning sun is best for container plantings as the afternoon sun is pretty rough on plants, especially those in containers. One plant that I would recommend is a peony. Ours was planted several years ago and does very well, even blooming most years. Zone eight is a bit on the warm side for reliable blooming of peonies which like colder winter temperatures. But even when the plant doesn't bloom, the foilage is wonderful.
As far as specific recommendations. You need to consider your space and the sized containers and plants that it can accomodate. A few strawberry plants might be fun. Small growing zinnas and annual dwarf dahlias make great centerpieces for container plantings. Each year my wife and I visit a couple of local nurseries and buy a variety of tall, medium height, and low height plants to put together as arrangements in various containers. Going to the local farmers market could be more fun and rewarding that going to Lowes. Also at the farmers market, more individuals will actually have good knowledge about the plants that they sell.
Here are some of my favorites for containers:
plumbago, various lantana, zinnas (short varieties), spike plant, wave petunias, penta, dwarf annual dahlias, gerbera daisy, caladium (semi shade), elephant ear in a large planter, various ferns (mostly semishade), New Zealand impatiens (semi shade)
There are many, many more but this should give you a starting point.
As far as specific recommendations. You need to consider your space and the sized containers and plants that it can accomodate. A few strawberry plants might be fun. Small growing zinnas and annual dwarf dahlias make great centerpieces for container plantings. Each year my wife and I visit a couple of local nurseries and buy a variety of tall, medium height, and low height plants to put together as arrangements in various containers. Going to the local farmers market could be more fun and rewarding that going to Lowes. Also at the farmers market, more individuals will actually have good knowledge about the plants that they sell.
Here are some of my favorites for containers:
plumbago, various lantana, zinnas (short varieties), spike plant, wave petunias, penta, dwarf annual dahlias, gerbera daisy, caladium (semi shade), elephant ear in a large planter, various ferns (mostly semishade), New Zealand impatiens (semi shade)
There are many, many more but this should give you a starting point.
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rainbowgardener
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You can have so much fun designing beautiful containers. You want something kind of tall and spiky, in the middle or slightly off center. Last year I found this wonderful grass called bunny tails. The seed heads do look just like furry little bunny tails and they lasted and lasted. It's not too tall and it did great in pots. Then you want something roundish and colorful, herbaceous begonias with colored foliage are nice. Marigolds are great for little pops of bright cheerful golden yellow. And then you want something that will trail down over the sides... definitely petunias. Miniature ivies work and a number of other things. Impatiens and petunias are very popular for containers, because they just pump out flowers all season long. You can get double impatiens that are almost like minature roses, just beautiful. Have fun!
Check to see whether your local library has a circulating copy of The Bountiful Container, by Rose Marie Nichols McGee & Maggie Stuckey (2002). They discuss vegetables, herbs, and flowers (and a few fruits!) which can be successfully grown in containers.
As to your USDA Hardiness zone, a local independent nursery or garden-supply store would be in the best position to help on this question. Even though maps may *say* that you live in a given zone, there's nothing like experience to tell you the truth.
In my case, the maps, the Sunset Western Garden Book, and my neighbors all tell me I live in Sunset Climate Zone 17.
However, when I tried to grow some Zone 17 varieties of veggies last year, it was a complete bust. Turns out that *my particular lot* (all 50' x 100' of it) acts a couple of climate zones cooler due to the wind-tunnel effect of two 2-story houses and the shade of our redwood tree, which blocks out the sun after 1:00 or so every afternoon.
So the "sources" gave me a starting point, but my experience gave me the reality check.
The books can give you a starting point, but the local advisors will probably give you a reality check, as well as good advice!
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
As to your USDA Hardiness zone, a local independent nursery or garden-supply store would be in the best position to help on this question. Even though maps may *say* that you live in a given zone, there's nothing like experience to tell you the truth.
In my case, the maps, the Sunset Western Garden Book, and my neighbors all tell me I live in Sunset Climate Zone 17.
However, when I tried to grow some Zone 17 varieties of veggies last year, it was a complete bust. Turns out that *my particular lot* (all 50' x 100' of it) acts a couple of climate zones cooler due to the wind-tunnel effect of two 2-story houses and the shade of our redwood tree, which blocks out the sun after 1:00 or so every afternoon.
So the "sources" gave me a starting point, but my experience gave me the reality check.
The books can give you a starting point, but the local advisors will probably give you a reality check, as well as good advice!
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Wow you guys made me feel a lot less anxious about all of my questions! Thank you! I actually thought planting strawberries in one of the containes I have would be pretty awesome XD
Um okay, another newbie question, how do I figure out what plant would go well in each pot? I mean, different sizes have to make a difference.
Um okay, another newbie question, how do I figure out what plant would go well in each pot? I mean, different sizes have to make a difference.
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hendi_alex
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Why don't you try to develop a short list of plants that you would like to try. Then ask the container question again.
For me, it is pretty difficult to answer in a general sort of way. Of course plant size is a key factor. A peony would do o.k. in two gallon pot for a year or may two, but would need to eventually be stepped up to a three or four gallon pot. I imagine the size could then be managed, dividing the plant every few years, to maintain it indefinitely in the three to four gallon size. For strawberries, one or two plants will do o.k. in a true one gallon pot, but IMO they are best put in a long, fairly deep rectangular container with perhaps 10 plants in a ten inch by three foot container. For a bit more money, you can choose one of those interesting strawberry jars that has planting openings all up the side. One plant can go in each opening with a few plants in the top.
You can buy most any one gallon perennial and plant it in a container that is two or more inches bigger in every direction. The second year lift the plant to refresh the soil, and decide then based upon root ball size, whether or not to increase the pot or replace the plant. IMO most annuals are best planted in complementary goupings with one or two tall plants surrounded by intermediate plants, and with low hanging plants placed right at the edge of the container. I usually use three to six gallon containers for annual plantings. They have plenty of soil capacity to retain water and prevent excess drying between waterings during the heat of the summer.
For me, it is pretty difficult to answer in a general sort of way. Of course plant size is a key factor. A peony would do o.k. in two gallon pot for a year or may two, but would need to eventually be stepped up to a three or four gallon pot. I imagine the size could then be managed, dividing the plant every few years, to maintain it indefinitely in the three to four gallon size. For strawberries, one or two plants will do o.k. in a true one gallon pot, but IMO they are best put in a long, fairly deep rectangular container with perhaps 10 plants in a ten inch by three foot container. For a bit more money, you can choose one of those interesting strawberry jars that has planting openings all up the side. One plant can go in each opening with a few plants in the top.
You can buy most any one gallon perennial and plant it in a container that is two or more inches bigger in every direction. The second year lift the plant to refresh the soil, and decide then based upon root ball size, whether or not to increase the pot or replace the plant. IMO most annuals are best planted in complementary goupings with one or two tall plants surrounded by intermediate plants, and with low hanging plants placed right at the edge of the container. I usually use three to six gallon containers for annual plantings. They have plenty of soil capacity to retain water and prevent excess drying between waterings during the heat of the summer.
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applestar
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This seems like a good chance to ask, and hopefully the answers will be helpful to Starlurk as well, so....
One of my problems with growing in containers has always been the watering issue. My container plants almost always suffer from insufficient watering. Do you use those water retentive crystals in your container soil mix? Do you have drip irrigation system for your containers?
Only way I was able to keep container plants alive last year was to put them in clay saucers directly on the ground where I had regular soaker hose irrigation going.
Tastefully arranging containers around my brick patio where they bake in the sun or around my NW facing front porch where it is heavily shaded for the most of the day, then the setting sun turns it into an oven (temp in the sun reaching 120~140ºF in the height of the summer) has been a bust.
One of my problems with growing in containers has always been the watering issue. My container plants almost always suffer from insufficient watering. Do you use those water retentive crystals in your container soil mix? Do you have drip irrigation system for your containers?
Only way I was able to keep container plants alive last year was to put them in clay saucers directly on the ground where I had regular soaker hose irrigation going.
Tastefully arranging containers around my brick patio where they bake in the sun or around my NW facing front porch where it is heavily shaded for the most of the day, then the setting sun turns it into an oven (temp in the sun reaching 120~140ºF in the height of the summer) has been a bust.
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hendi_alex
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The watering issue was a real problem for me last year. The wife and I were out of town three days per week, and there was no watering system set up on the deck area which is home for most of our container plants.
One strategy that I use is to partially shade a smaller container plant by a larger container that holds a small tree. Also, we take advantage of how the shade moves during the day, to try and give the plants between five and seven hours of sun per day, but to limit late afternoon sun to only filtered light. Still evaporation is a problem. I'm considering placing a thick perhaps half inch cotton rope inside the container and allowed to drap into a saucer with pebbles and water underneath. I am also going to experiment with drip irrigation on a timer this year. The large hose can be placed mostly out of sight, with only the small lines running to a less visible side of the container. Reservoir containers are a great idea, but for now most are much too ugly and much to expensive for my tastes.
I have bought the water absorbing crystals but have never used them. I'm just afraid that they will make the plant stay too wet during the first hours after being watered.
Another Idea that I'm kicking around is to get a two liter coke type of bottle. Drill a 1/2 inch hole at the bottom (or what ever size works for my wick material), place a wick in the hole so as to slow water flow to a trickle, then bury the coke bottle such that the wick/hole area is underneath the center of the planting area, and the bottle opening is just above the soil surface. I'll fill the coke bottle, and would expect it to slowly drip and wick the water into the soil where it is needed. This to me, represents a decent buffer, giving water in a slow metered kind of way, as opposed to the all or nothing watering that they get when doused with the hose.
Sure would appreciate anyone else's ideas on the watering issue mostly related to container plantings.
One strategy that I use is to partially shade a smaller container plant by a larger container that holds a small tree. Also, we take advantage of how the shade moves during the day, to try and give the plants between five and seven hours of sun per day, but to limit late afternoon sun to only filtered light. Still evaporation is a problem. I'm considering placing a thick perhaps half inch cotton rope inside the container and allowed to drap into a saucer with pebbles and water underneath. I am also going to experiment with drip irrigation on a timer this year. The large hose can be placed mostly out of sight, with only the small lines running to a less visible side of the container. Reservoir containers are a great idea, but for now most are much too ugly and much to expensive for my tastes.
I have bought the water absorbing crystals but have never used them. I'm just afraid that they will make the plant stay too wet during the first hours after being watered.
Another Idea that I'm kicking around is to get a two liter coke type of bottle. Drill a 1/2 inch hole at the bottom (or what ever size works for my wick material), place a wick in the hole so as to slow water flow to a trickle, then bury the coke bottle such that the wick/hole area is underneath the center of the planting area, and the bottle opening is just above the soil surface. I'll fill the coke bottle, and would expect it to slowly drip and wick the water into the soil where it is needed. This to me, represents a decent buffer, giving water in a slow metered kind of way, as opposed to the all or nothing watering that they get when doused with the hose.
Sure would appreciate anyone else's ideas on the watering issue mostly related to container plantings.
I find it helpful to use plastic containers, or else those that are glazed. They seem to require less frequent watering. It's important that there be sufficient drainage holes in the bottom, of course, because you don't want to drown your plants, either.
I don't use the water retention crystals, nor do I have a drip irrigation system. I go out every morning, and if things look a bit dry, I get the garden hose and water everything. I make sure to give each container enough water to run out the bottom and fill the saucer. If the weather is very hot, I hose down the entire area around the plants, to increase the humidity around them.
My flower planters sit on my cement patio, which is on the northeast side of my house, and the veggie planters sit on the south side of my house, in an area that is graveled.
I don't use the water retention crystals, nor do I have a drip irrigation system. I go out every morning, and if things look a bit dry, I get the garden hose and water everything. I make sure to give each container enough water to run out the bottom and fill the saucer. If the weather is very hot, I hose down the entire area around the plants, to increase the humidity around them.
My flower planters sit on my cement patio, which is on the northeast side of my house, and the veggie planters sit on the south side of my house, in an area that is graveled.
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hendi_alex
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Kisal, I view Oregon weather as relatively cool and damp much of the time, but I guess that is really just the area west of the mountains. Here in central S.C., for much of the summer, morning temperatures start out in the upper 70's and quickly hit the mid 80's, with before noon through the early evening staying above the 90's. Any container that gets full sun all day, has to be watered twice per day during those hot days. Many of the plants that only get half day sun, still have to be watered twice per day. So where the temperatures are very hot, and transpiration so rapid, some system has to be worked out, to make watering and water retention more efficient. In the hot part of the summer, a two day trip would ensure lots of dead container plants, if arrrangements were not made for watering.