Hello
This spring I bought a dwarf lemon, fig and banana tree in pots. They've been on the porch and doing well. Only the fig tree has made fruit, but I assume it could take a couple years for the lemon and banana tree to blossom and fruit. I have to take them inside for the fall and winter soon. I have no idea how to care for them indoors and I haven't been able to find any specific information for indoor care.
The biggest problem is my condo gets no significant direct sunlight in the windows. I was thinking of getting some florescent grow lights, and hanging them over the trees, and also putting an old three fold standing mirror behind them, to help move the light around. I assume I should rotate the plants every few days too.
Does this sound like a reasonable thing to do. If so, how many bulbs, how many watts, and how close should they be to the trees?
Thanks.
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
Brandon,
I over-winter all of my tender trees inside under fluorescent lighting. I use standard 4 Ft shop lights, this is far from ideal but is superior to conventional incandescent bulbs. The efficacy of this type of lighting drops off rapidly as the distance to the source increases, so it it necessary to get the lights as close as possible without overheating the plants. If your plants are tall and you have an appropriate area you may want to consider mounting some fixtures vertically as well as the more traditional horizontal orientation.
If you go to the bonsai forum there is a sticky thread that discusses supplemental lighting. There should be a link to a bonsai site called 'bonsai hunk' This individual is very knowledgeable in the area of indoor growing. Although he uses HID lighting exclusively there is a section on fluorescents there.
Norm
I over-winter all of my tender trees inside under fluorescent lighting. I use standard 4 Ft shop lights, this is far from ideal but is superior to conventional incandescent bulbs. The efficacy of this type of lighting drops off rapidly as the distance to the source increases, so it it necessary to get the lights as close as possible without overheating the plants. If your plants are tall and you have an appropriate area you may want to consider mounting some fixtures vertically as well as the more traditional horizontal orientation.
If you go to the bonsai forum there is a sticky thread that discusses supplemental lighting. There should be a link to a bonsai site called 'bonsai hunk' This individual is very knowledgeable in the area of indoor growing. Although he uses HID lighting exclusively there is a section on fluorescents there.
Norm
Brandon, in some climates container plants are best off being left outdoors during the winter. Indoor air can be way too dry for most plants, and as you know the lighting is insufficient for their needs, even when compared to Northern Hemisphere Oct-Mar sunlight.
Probably a lot of people who have plants in containers hesitated to respond b/c they didn't know what region you live in. Manitoba vs. Florida vs. southern England will require very different advice.
Cynthia H.
USDA Zone 9, Sunset Zone 17
Probably a lot of people who have plants in containers hesitated to respond b/c they didn't know what region you live in. Manitoba vs. Florida vs. southern England will require very different advice.
Cynthia H.
USDA Zone 9, Sunset Zone 17
Sorry for the delay. I will update my profile with location.
I'm located in Massachusetts
What do you mean by shop lights? A regular hanging bulb, like a car mechanic uses?
I have a few full spectrum fluorescent bulbs on hand. I also have some full spectrum incandescent bulbs on hand too.
Is there any simple rule of thumb that lets you know how much artificial light you need to supply for the size of plants?
I'm located in Massachusetts
What do you mean by shop lights? A regular hanging bulb, like a car mechanic uses?
I have a few full spectrum fluorescent bulbs on hand. I also have some full spectrum incandescent bulbs on hand too.
Is there any simple rule of thumb that lets you know how much artificial light you need to supply for the size of plants?
Gnome and the other bonsai enthusiasts are definitely the folks who would know about gardening with indoor lights. Even though small, bonsai trees need lots of light, just as they would in nature.
In Massachusetts, you're right--bringing the plants indoors is the way to go. I didn't know for sure what to say when I replied earlier, b/c here in the S.F. Bay Area, it differs from plant to plant:
--some want to be in the house, where it's actually warm, and need extra water/misting
--some want to be in a carport or other sheltered outdoor location, so long as they get enough water and reflected light to sustain life
--some want a garage so they can "safely" go dormant
--and some don't care--"Leave me outside, I'll be fine"--like my cymbidiums (pretty sturdy orchids)
That's why I didn't know what to say.
Maybe the site Gnome recommended has some "Guidelines for Beginners" or similar?
Take a look; if it doesn't, I'll see what I can find for you. I need to start looking into lighting, anyway, to start veggie seeds next Jan/Feb/March, and I may as well start soon...
Thanks for getting back to us with your location!
I'm sure Gnome will be by soon.
Cynthia H.
USDA Zone 9, Sunset Zone 17
In Massachusetts, you're right--bringing the plants indoors is the way to go. I didn't know for sure what to say when I replied earlier, b/c here in the S.F. Bay Area, it differs from plant to plant:
--some want to be in the house, where it's actually warm, and need extra water/misting
--some want to be in a carport or other sheltered outdoor location, so long as they get enough water and reflected light to sustain life
--some want a garage so they can "safely" go dormant
--and some don't care--"Leave me outside, I'll be fine"--like my cymbidiums (pretty sturdy orchids)
That's why I didn't know what to say.
Maybe the site Gnome recommended has some "Guidelines for Beginners" or similar?
Take a look; if it doesn't, I'll see what I can find for you. I need to start looking into lighting, anyway, to start veggie seeds next Jan/Feb/March, and I may as well start soon...
Thanks for getting back to us with your location!
I'm sure Gnome will be by soon.
Cynthia H.
USDA Zone 9, Sunset Zone 17
I'm sorry. I read Gnome's reply really late, and it just didn't click. Great....that's a good starting point.
For the time being, I have a utility shelf in the basement. if I take a shelf out, the plants can fit on it. I can put the lights on bottom of the high shelf, and put some mirrors on the back side to push some light back on the plants. It's got to be better than the ambient sunlight by itself.
For the time being, I have a utility shelf in the basement. if I take a shelf out, the plants can fit on it. I can put the lights on bottom of the high shelf, and put some mirrors on the back side to push some light back on the plants. It's got to be better than the ambient sunlight by itself.
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
Brandon,
Fluorescents are a sort of minimal situation, just enough to get my plants through the winter, they do not really put on much growth during this period.
Regular incandescent bulbs (conventional light bulbs) are a poor choice. They create so much heat that they must be placed at such a distance that the energy they provide the plant is greatly reduced.
Norm
I meant that I use those inexpensive 4 Ft fluorescent fixtures that are sold for garages or shops. You can usually get them for about $10.00 each, not including tubes. I also use an inexpensive timer. One timer can control more than one light.What do you mean by shop lights? A regular hanging bulb, like a car mechanic uses?
Fluorescents are a sort of minimal situation, just enough to get my plants through the winter, they do not really put on much growth during this period.
Regular incandescent bulbs (conventional light bulbs) are a poor choice. They create so much heat that they must be placed at such a distance that the energy they provide the plant is greatly reduced.
Norm
-
joshuaslocum
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 6:32 am
- Location: New Zealand
This is off topic from banana trees but if you have deciduous fruit trees in containers one trick is to locate them next to the wall of your house or any building that is heated all winter.
The wall will bleed heat to the tree no matter how well insulated it is but of course it's a better trick the worse the insulation is.
Added bonus you can try your hand at espalier which is just so cool.
The wall will bleed heat to the tree no matter how well insulated it is but of course it's a better trick the worse the insulation is.
Added bonus you can try your hand at espalier which is just so cool.
-
applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30541
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Here's a neat idea I just stumbled across: https://www.cheapvegetablegardener.com/2008/01/cheap-pc-case-grow-box-for-less-than-20.html
I didn't know there was such a thing as a "plug in socket adapter" -- that and the ... OK drawing a blank -- those spirally energy efficient bulbs ... open up all kinds of possibilities.
I didn't know there was such a thing as a "plug in socket adapter" -- that and the ... OK drawing a blank -- those spirally energy efficient bulbs ... open up all kinds of possibilities.
My lemon trees have lights as shown in the picture. They have 150 (watt replacement) compact florescent (CFL) lights. These clamp lights are cheap and available at most hardware stores. The spectrum of light is also to be considered. Higher "color temperatures" such as around 5000K are best for all around and 2700 are (apparently) better for blooming. (I have had plenty of blooms with my higher color temp light) I'll post one when I figure out how to get the picture on. [/img]