SQWIB
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Espalier Pear tree Help Needed

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I'm a the final height I want my pear tree to be.

In my left hand is the main branch, to the right are two branches, should I cut off the lowest branch and train the main stem to the left and the side branch to the right?
Or should I let it get a little higher then cut the main branch and promote two new branches closer to the wire

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2nd question

Should I remove this branch and keep the smaller one (yellow arrow) that is closer to the 2nd tier, I grew both out because I was afraid the smaller one wasn't going to make it.

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applestar
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As you know I’m a very beginner and have not been pruning mine strictly. But by my methods, I would cut off the two bottom branches because they are too low to the ground and then the one you marked with white arrow and asked “remove?”

I would then keep the yellow arrow one as opposite partner to the other one and train them to the wire — you now have two side ways branches and a leader. When that leader grows 1 foot to 18 inches, prune and force another set of side branches — one first then a second strong side going the opposite way. At that point, you can decide to top the tree and have 4 side scaffolds or go ahead and grow out a leader for another pair above them.

SQWIB
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I'm not totally clear, does this look right, if so, when I cut the two lowest branches I wont have any branches for the bottom leader.

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As for the 2nd part, let the main stem grow a bit more then cut at the 3rd level?
Should I remove the side branches now?

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applestar
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So, I assume you are trying to style your pear espalier in the typical shape which is top-right
*Yvonne CuthberTson*
*Yvonne CuthberTson*
The first pair of side branches are typically described as around knee high or 24 inches from the ground on up. You don’t want them too low since low-hanging fruits are vulnerable to animal predation and splashed up diseases. Also always be aware of where the graft joint is. Since you don’t want the rootstock to steal nutrients or try to take over.

After removing the bottom two side branches, which I would do now before the fungal season hits, the question is whether the bottom wire is where you need them to be for the NEW bottom pair of branches. Also, I’m finding that thin bamboo canes are invaluable — ones typically sold in 3-4 ft range 3/8-1/2” d maybe? — for training the young, flexible branches to stay straight and to tie them down without injury. Tie the branch with soft ties to the bamboo cane, then tie the bamboo cane down to the wire or other secure support.

The angle can be horizontal to the ground as pictured or at a desired 45 or lower angle but you want to match them for best appearance. Note that lowering the branch tip triggers the plant hormones to bloom and fruit more readily and grow less vigorously.

JONA
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I Would remove those two bottom branches too.
Then the tree can put all its strength into the top of the tree where you want two more layers.
At the moment the left hand branch is much stronger than the one on the right.
I would tie the left one down further to the horizontal to slow it down more.
Leaving the one on the right more upright and so encouraging it to grow stronger and match up more to its partner. Then perhaps next winter it can be pulled down to its final position.
Next winter if it is still weaker than the other one...tip it’s leader back to encourage growth while leaving the stronger ones leader un pruned.

The top leader I would tip a couple of inches to get a couple more breaks. Then you can choose in the winter prune which ones to use for the next layer and which to leave to grow on up for another layer if you want one.

SQWIB
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OK, I took a deep breath and made 4 cuts, removed the 2 lower branches, hoping next year I get a couple buds closer to the lower wires.
I then removed the larger center branch to make more even.
I then topped off 4 inches from the leader.
The left branch is being trained to the left and the other to the right.
Then I went to bed and cried myself to sleep!

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applestar
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