Green Greetings,
I planted 2 pear trees late last summer. I'm a novice and know I need to prune these trees to optimize fruit production but need some advice.
Also, last year the leaves on the trees developed black spots. I sprayed the trees with a copper spray that seemed to help. Any advice on how to prevent this is appreciated.
Last, any advice on feeding the trees and watering would be great.
Pete
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PeteLovesPeaches
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Pruning young pear trees
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Hi Pete,
First...I would get a stake in beside your trees.
Two reasons.
It would give more stability to the tree in windy weather, and when it crops in its early years it will hold the tree from leaning...pears are heavy.
Pruning depends a lot on how tall you want your trees to grow.
I'm assuming you want to grow them as centre leader trees that finish at a hight that makes them pickable from the ground.
The tree in the first picture ....there are two lower branches, I would tie or weight these down to a 60 degree angle for a couple of months to get them to spur up and produce good fruit bud. The leader on that tree has a bushy head that will dominate the tree if left. Cut that head off to the single shoot that is the lowest on that bushy head....about a foot down from the top. This will encourage the lower branches to strengthen up and make a distinct leader.
The second picture tree has three strong branches forming below the main leader. These must be weakened by tying down or they will come into direct conflict with the leader.
The leader itself can be just tipped back to a weak shoot to slow it down and get the growth into the lower branches.
Water in dry periods with good long waterings. Light watering just encourages shallow rooting that is then very prone to damage in drought periods.
Feed in the spring with a general fertiliser.
Mulching always helps to conserve moisture.
The black spots on your leaves are probably a sign of scab.
Very common on pears.
Organic control is by sulphur. Either sprays or powder.
Scab spores spread in what are called Mills Periods. These are when it is both warm and wet. Muggy periods in the spring and summer months.
Spraying may be needed several times in the growing season when these conditions occur.
First...I would get a stake in beside your trees.
Two reasons.
It would give more stability to the tree in windy weather, and when it crops in its early years it will hold the tree from leaning...pears are heavy.
Pruning depends a lot on how tall you want your trees to grow.
I'm assuming you want to grow them as centre leader trees that finish at a hight that makes them pickable from the ground.
The tree in the first picture ....there are two lower branches, I would tie or weight these down to a 60 degree angle for a couple of months to get them to spur up and produce good fruit bud. The leader on that tree has a bushy head that will dominate the tree if left. Cut that head off to the single shoot that is the lowest on that bushy head....about a foot down from the top. This will encourage the lower branches to strengthen up and make a distinct leader.
The second picture tree has three strong branches forming below the main leader. These must be weakened by tying down or they will come into direct conflict with the leader.
The leader itself can be just tipped back to a weak shoot to slow it down and get the growth into the lower branches.
Water in dry periods with good long waterings. Light watering just encourages shallow rooting that is then very prone to damage in drought periods.
Feed in the spring with a general fertiliser.
Mulching always helps to conserve moisture.
The black spots on your leaves are probably a sign of scab.
Very common on pears.
Organic control is by sulphur. Either sprays or powder.
Scab spores spread in what are called Mills Periods. These are when it is both warm and wet. Muggy periods in the spring and summer months.
Spraying may be needed several times in the growing season when these conditions occur.
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PeteLovesPeaches
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- Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 2:35 pm
- Location: Boston MA
Hey thanks a bundle John. I'll start by getting stakes as you suggested. I'll cut the leaders as you said, but when it comes to tying or weighing down branches to achieve an angle, I'll need more guidance; so a few questions:
1. Is the angle you mention between the branch and the trunk?
2. Are branches tied to stakes in the ground?
Also, I have a peach tree that is looking happy but I noticed some leaves getting blotches. I've uploaded a picture. Any thoughts on this?
Most thankful,
Pete
1. Is the angle you mention between the branch and the trunk?
2. Are branches tied to stakes in the ground?
Also, I have a peach tree that is looking happy but I noticed some leaves getting blotches. I've uploaded a picture. Any thoughts on this?
Most thankful,
Pete
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Hi Pete,
The easiest way of tying branches down is by using string and a plastic bag full of stones or dirt. Pull the branch down as far as you can without snapping it to as near horizontal as it will go. Tie the string and bag to the branch with the bag on the ground and making sure the string is not cutting into the branch. Leave for a couple of months when it should then be set into a much better angle to the trunk.
I use bags rather than stakes etc as they can be moved easily out of the way to do mowing.
The peach leaves are suffering from Peach Leaf Curl.
Caused by them getting wet early in the season. On young trees or those that are trained on walls etc, it's possible to covour them to keep rain off.
But if that's not possible then early sprays of Bordaux Mixture helps control.
The easiest way of tying branches down is by using string and a plastic bag full of stones or dirt. Pull the branch down as far as you can without snapping it to as near horizontal as it will go. Tie the string and bag to the branch with the bag on the ground and making sure the string is not cutting into the branch. Leave for a couple of months when it should then be set into a much better angle to the trunk.
I use bags rather than stakes etc as they can be moved easily out of the way to do mowing.
The peach leaves are suffering from Peach Leaf Curl.
Caused by them getting wet early in the season. On young trees or those that are trained on walls etc, it's possible to covour them to keep rain off.
But if that's not possible then early sprays of Bordaux Mixture helps control.
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PeteLovesPeaches
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 2:35 pm
- Location: Boston MA
One more question about pruning the peach tree. It looks like the leader is growing fast and after doing some web research I found that peach trees fruit best when they are pruned to a "Y" shape.
So my question is do I need to lop off the leader of this peach tree? Should I wait until after the growing season? THANKS!
So my question is do I need to lop off the leader of this peach tree? Should I wait until after the growing season? THANKS!
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Personally Pete I would not do anything to your peach tree yet. If it was against a wall or fence then you would have to train it straight away to get it in the correct form....but standing out on its own I would let it go for a couple more years.
Peaches can be pruned quite heavily when it's needed as they crop quite willingly on one year wood.so strict pruning on open trees is not so important as with some stone fruits.
Personal opinion of course...so I would like to hear what others think.
Peaches can be pruned quite heavily when it's needed as they crop quite willingly on one year wood.so strict pruning on open trees is not so important as with some stone fruits.
Personal opinion of course...so I would like to hear what others think.