Peach Sappling Transplant

[meshmouse]

I have access to a peach sappling, about 7 foot tall maybe 1 inch thick at base. It grew outside the shade of an old, thick, poorly neglected peach tree that still puts out a tremendous amount of fruit each year. Mama tree is in a sad state, but prolific.

Can I transplant it now (late spring)? How and when should I prune it?

thanks

[CharlieBear]

Without seeing it in person I can only give you a partial answer. First if that is a sucker off the old tree then you can't just transplant it since if is off the old root system. If it is a "volunteer" that grew from a fallen peach then it could be transplanted under the right conditions. However, the fruit it bears may not be the same as the old tree. Peach trees are generally grafted in what is referred to as a soft graft process to base stock. That being said, peach trees, like persimmons are harder to transplant then most young trees, so the success rate will depend on how much of the deeper root structure you get and how quickly you get it back in the ground. If the Sapling is blooming or has leaves it is too late to move it. As for pruning, peaches are pruned to an open bowl shape. If is it already 7 foot tall it may well be bigger than the old tree you are looking at who's height is partially determined by the root stock it was grafted in. That is the long way of saying if it was me I would go buy as dwarf or semi-dwarf peach of a variety that does well in your area and plant it instead. Just get it from a nursery that will replace it if you plant it correctly, and take care of of properly and it still doesn't take.

[meshmouse]

Hey CharlieBear -

Umm, I'm pretty sure it's its own plant, not a sucker.

I was trying to find a graft mark on Mama tree, but she is so old and gnarled, I don't think I would be able to find it if it even exists.

This sappling was about to be lopped out until I interceded. Some sources have said late spring (which it now is) is the best time to transplant. Others say late fall, others still, say, early spring.

I guess it doesn't matter as I have to take it now or let it die.

As per your advice, I will have a broad receiving spot prepared before I dig out the sappling. I will take as much and, as large of a root ball as I can. I will get it in the ground in it's new home withing minutes of being dug out. I've also been told not to improve the soil too much. Does that sound right?

I've been working on pruning a young apple tree into a bowl shape, and tho I'm still learning, I understand the general concept (trim the downward, the crossing, leaving to the outward bud).

My real question about pruning is should I just leave it alone until it can establish itself (if it even does), or should I start pruning back right away to reduce the demand on the rootstock?

This is not necessarily my 'dream' peach tree. It's more an act of mercy and respect for Mama tree's prolific output. I think it's a clingstone. My preference would be a freestone, probably a John Boy, which I understand is the standard in New Jersey, which are the only peach fruit I find worth buying at market. In fact, I freeze them by the tens of pounds for winter use.

I just thought I'd give it a chance (and a little attention) to prove itself. If it doesn't do well, or doesn't fruit, well, no great loss.

Here's a couple of pictures of it as well as Mama. Let me know what you think. In particular, should I cut back the main stem severely?

[CharlieBear]

Yes don't to anything to the soil the first year that is the general rule. General pruning rule is no more than 30% in any give 12 months. So if you take off 25% now you can't take off anymore until at least this time next year. Since you will be losing some of the root mass you should remove some of the top growth as well. As for pruning times down the road, before it buds out in the spring is common, that however promotes strong growth and can lead to more branching and water shoots etc than you want. The other best time is generally between july 15th and Aug 15th in most parts of the country. The tree heals the fastest and it doesn't send the tree into growth over drive. It is the hardest time to prune because the leaves are all on and you may end up needing to prune fruit off, which is always hard to to. Besides the open bowl concept, you need to prune so branches don't rub on each other or cross as well. At some point those very low branches will need to come off, but I personally would wait until next year on those (if the tree survives transplanting). Keep it watered at about 5 gallons per week (counting rain) Stake the tree. Since that tree is not dormant I wouldn't take off more than 20% more than that would be too much shock. To take off nothing and the diminished root system will almost guaranty failure. Good luck

[meshmouse]

Thanks CharlieBear -

That is exactly what I'll do. I got a reprieve until next monday but I think I'll do it tomorrow. The next few days are supposed to be rainy and would probably be of a help with the shock of transplant. I will lop off part of the growing tip and keep all trimming to about 25%.

meshmouse