Does anyone have experience growing honeyberries?
Being new to the forum, I apologize it there is already a subject line on this that I missed.
I planted 3 different cultivars of honeyberries this spring and they don't seem to be doing very well. Wilted brown leaves, no new shoots...
I am wondering if they lay dormant for the first year then grow the second? Any help would be appreciated.
- Antelope Creek
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:51 pm
- Location: Bismarck, ND
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
Welcome AC,
To start out, I will ask you to please add to your profile. The more information we have the better we can help. Bismarck ND, Etc Etc.........
Having no experience I will cut and past a Wiki. This tells use the soil types and PH perferred and cultivar Russian versus Japanese.
Eric
To start out, I will ask you to please add to your profile. The more information we have the better we can help. Bismarck ND, Etc Etc.........
Having no experience I will cut and past a Wiki. This tells use the soil types and PH perferred and cultivar Russian versus Japanese.
This should get the ball rolling.At 1.5 meters the plants can remain as individual bushes for many years. Plants will grow to be 1.5 to 2 meters tall and wide. It can survive a large range of soil acidity, from 3.9-7.7 (optimum 5.5-6.5).[6][7] Blue-berried honeysuckle plants require high organic matter, well drained soils, and lots of sunlight for optimum productivity. Lonicera caerulea plants are more tolerant of wet conditions than most fruit species. Harvest season can be 2 weeks before strawberries for Russian type varieties but Japanese types will ripen at a similar time to strawberries. Two compatible varieties are needed for cross pollination and fruit set. This is a northern adapted species that can tolerate -45C/F temperatures in winter. In North America most Russian varieties are adapted to Hardiness zones 1 to 4. Likely gardeners living in zones 5 and 6 would need to use the Japanese varieties, which are far less likely to grow during warm periods during winter. The southern range of where this plant could be grown is not yet known. Often it will fruit the following season after being planted, even if very small. Perhaps by the 3rd year 1 pound (1/2 kg) may be harvested. The plants may take three or four years to produce an abundant harvest.[2] Average production on a good bush is about 7 lbs (3 kg).[2]
Eric
- Antelope Creek
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:51 pm
- Location: Bismarck, ND
DDF,
Thank you for the heads up on my profile. I will get that fixed.
I appreciate the quick response and the good info. I read as much as I could find on the subject of honeyberries prior to planting them. It doesn't say anything in the literature about turning brown or wilted leaves. Curious if anyone has experienced the same thing or if I am doing something wrong.
I planted berry blue, borealis and tundra cultivars in an area where my cherries and black currants are doing really well for the first year.
Thank you for the heads up on my profile. I will get that fixed.
I appreciate the quick response and the good info. I read as much as I could find on the subject of honeyberries prior to planting them. It doesn't say anything in the literature about turning brown or wilted leaves. Curious if anyone has experienced the same thing or if I am doing something wrong.
I planted berry blue, borealis and tundra cultivars in an area where my cherries and black currants are doing really well for the first year.