ElizabethB wrote:Like you do any hardwood cutting. 6" - 8" cuttings the diameter of a pencil. angled cut on the bottom straight cut on top. No leaves. All purpose potting soil. I use 3/4 - 1 gallon nursery pots filled to within an inch of the top. The jury is out on root hormone. I have used it and not used with no discernable difference. Leave only 3"- 4" of the cutting out of the soil. The big thing is to keep the soil evenly moist at all times. I saturate my soil first and let it drain before planting. Even in the winter cuttings generally need daily watering. No fertilizer. No need to worry about light until your cutting starts producing leaves.
Rooting the cutting should be no problem. I have started lots of hard wood cuttings with very good results including a fig cutting I took from Mom's tree last spring. I usually avoid trying to start cuttings from plants like citrus and fruit trees that are grafted. Your cuttings will start no problem I just don't know how not having the grafted root stock will affect the tree in the long run. Maybe some of the other forum members can chime in. I have started grafted roses from cuttings. SOO proud of myself when they bloomed - alas the plants just did not live more than a few years. The parent plants were still going strong when my starts died/quit blooming. I do recommend keeping your citrus trees in pots until they are 2 or 3 years old and 3' - 4' tall. Even in south Louisiana very young citrus/fruit trees are sensitive to even a little bit of cold. I pottedd my fig cutting up to an 8" pot after the leaves appeared and will pot it up to a 10" in the spring. I will probably need to pot it up again before winter. I have not yet added any fertilizer. If it tries to fruit I will pop off the fruit. I planted a satsuma in March. It had about 12 baby fruit. I popped them off. It has not been fertilized but will do so probably late February early March. I will let fruit develop this year. The first year in the ground it needs to establish roots and not waste energy pushing foliage or fruit.
Interested in seeing how your experiment works ie not grafted.
Budding is the standard method used to propagate citrus. Aside from being the eas- iest method, it allows a large number of plants to be propagated from a small amount of scion wood and is suitable for trees, rootstocks, or branches from 1â„4 to 1 inch (0.6 to 2.5 cm) in diameter.
Budwood should be taken only from high-producing, disease-free trees (see sidebar). The best citrus budwood is located just below the most recent flush of new growth; the best avocado budwood is located near the terminal end of shoots that have fully matured, leathery leaves.