I have three very neglected fruit trees(peach, pear and blood plum) on my new rental property and they haven't been pruned in 10/15 years. They all had some fruit this year but could have a lot more. They are very overgrown and in need of attention any help on how, were and when pruning them should be don will be much appreciated.
I have all the tool’s for the job.
p.s. I don't know if it is relevant or not but were I live it is one month till spring.
Hi Nicholas.
Your peach and plum can be pruned as soon as possable.
The main task will be to get some good light into the trees ...so concentrate on removing largish branches that are crossing through the tree or heading skywards.
Three or four such timbers and you will be amazed at how much difference it makes.
Next winter you can then start to get the smaller stuff into line.
The plum is best left until it is in full growth and the sap is running well.
I would suggest about three months into growth.
This is to give the tree the maximum protection against Silver Leaf and Bacterial Canker.
If you do want to start on it straight away..then keep it to a couple of major cuts and paint the wounds straight away with a fungicidal or grafting paint. I would always paint the pruning wounds on plums anyway.
Good luck.....you'll find the effort well worth while.
Your peach and plum can be pruned as soon as possable.
The main task will be to get some good light into the trees ...so concentrate on removing largish branches that are crossing through the tree or heading skywards.
Three or four such timbers and you will be amazed at how much difference it makes.
Next winter you can then start to get the smaller stuff into line.
The plum is best left until it is in full growth and the sap is running well.
I would suggest about three months into growth.
This is to give the tree the maximum protection against Silver Leaf and Bacterial Canker.
If you do want to start on it straight away..then keep it to a couple of major cuts and paint the wounds straight away with a fungicidal or grafting paint. I would always paint the pruning wounds on plums anyway.
Good luck.....you'll find the effort well worth while.
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CharlieBear
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- Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:19 pm
- Location: Pacific NW
I wouldn't prune those old trees this summer except for the water shoots (the ones growing straight up) and anything coming out below the grafts. Pruning off larger branches this time of year risks disease setting in, sometimes even if you paint it.
Rule one be patient, old trees especially plums can't take a haircut, it may die. It is best to start when the trees are dormant. It is also easier to see what you are doing. With all the leaves it can be more than daunting and if you are just a new pruner, you will make mistakes, you might regret.
In the early spring or very late winter before any buds open on the tree then start pruning. Any other time the leaves make it much harder to see what you are doing.
General pruning guidelines-
If two branches cross or rub on each other cut the weaker out. Then the next year cut out branches that are growing in towards the trunk. Peaches are pruned to an open bowl shape, plums sometimes are sometimes central leader. Whichever was started you will have to stay with. Pears are usually pruned to central leader. Pears are the hardest to prune as the branches tend to be rather close together. Always cut back all the way to the trunk or to the collar if possible. If you must cut off part of a branch always cut to an outside bud.
When cutting larger limbs always make a cut from the bottom up part way before cutting it off from the top, that will reduce tearage. If you have to cut a branch 3" or more in diameter it is wise to paint the open wound even in the spring to reduce the chance of disease.
Look on line for the document on pruning from Kansas State U extention for a brief discription of pruning. Utah State has a document called pruning the orchard which is even more extensive. Both say not to prune now except for water shoots.
Rule one be patient, old trees especially plums can't take a haircut, it may die. It is best to start when the trees are dormant. It is also easier to see what you are doing. With all the leaves it can be more than daunting and if you are just a new pruner, you will make mistakes, you might regret.
In the early spring or very late winter before any buds open on the tree then start pruning. Any other time the leaves make it much harder to see what you are doing.
General pruning guidelines-
If two branches cross or rub on each other cut the weaker out. Then the next year cut out branches that are growing in towards the trunk. Peaches are pruned to an open bowl shape, plums sometimes are sometimes central leader. Whichever was started you will have to stay with. Pears are usually pruned to central leader. Pears are the hardest to prune as the branches tend to be rather close together. Always cut back all the way to the trunk or to the collar if possible. If you must cut off part of a branch always cut to an outside bud.
When cutting larger limbs always make a cut from the bottom up part way before cutting it off from the top, that will reduce tearage. If you have to cut a branch 3" or more in diameter it is wise to paint the open wound even in the spring to reduce the chance of disease.
Look on line for the document on pruning from Kansas State U extention for a brief discription of pruning. Utah State has a document called pruning the orchard which is even more extensive. Both say not to prune now except for water shoots.
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CharlieBear
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 588
- Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:19 pm
- Location: Pacific NW
No, honey is antibacterial not a fungicide, and I didn't notice Australia, my apologies. Still, the pruning advice remains the same except of course you need to do it in late winter very early spring your time. If you are pruning in the late winter/very early spring before the buds swell, most orchardist won't paint the wound unless it is more than 3" across or you have some tearing. All wound paint is chemically is a mixture of white latex paint and isopropal alcohol. The alcohol cleans the wound like in animals and the paint seals it up like a bandage. Still I would recommend you look for those two publications on the net and read them, they will give you more comprehensive info than any of us can in the limited space.
I am going to try my luck at air layering on my fruit trees, as most of the big branches that I was going to prune out are suitable for air layering . Like I said my fruit trees haven't had a prune in many year’s. so I will give air layering a try on my peach, pear and two plum tree’s. thanks for all your help, Nickolas