opabinia51
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 4659
Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

They look good. Haven't tried them myself. Give it a go!

Dadblastit! I looked directly at my publication with the organic remedies this morning to! Oh well, have to bring it in later.


Good luck with your citrus tree,

I'm back to reviewing policy.

opabinia51
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 4659
Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Okay, here we go:

Milk as an antifungal spray (long since known as a remedy for powedery mildew, it turns out that the calcium along with the natural cultures that exist in milk are a perfect remedy for fungal infections.

Peppermint Spray. Make a solar tea by tying 1 cup of dried peppermint or spearmint into a guaze bag or pantyhose and place in a 4 L glass container.
Add 1/2 cup of seaweed powder, 1 drop of natural soap and adash of tabasco or other hot sauce.
Fill container with distilled water and place in sun for 2-3 hours.

Strain into a sprayer and use for deterring soft bodied insects.

NOTE: this also effects beneficial insects so, use sparingly.

Sage Spray: Make by substituting dry sage for the mint. Will work against corn borers, corn earworm and codling moths.
Let sit for 24 hours before adding 1 drop soap per 1 gallon of water.

I have more that I will add at a later date.

HyperFerret
Full Member
Posts: 23
Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Arkansas, Zone 7

Good news and bad news...... Bad news first: Last post I made, I only had 29 leaves left. Since then I've lost 9 more leaves. Good news: I haven't lost anymore leaves yet. So far it's stuck with 20 leaves for quite a while. (other 9 leaves dropped pretty quickly and close together) Also: About the black on the leaves and tips of the branches, good news ... um sorda, kinda. The "Death of the Black Grip" (DBG) hasn't spread any further on the branches nor has it formed/appeared on any other leaves. Now, the two branches that have the DBG that I have pictured on here, should I cut those off? If so, does it matter if I cut it straight or should I cut it at an angle like as I would when cutting a rose?

I appreciate all the suggestions for curing the black fungus (what I'm calling DBG) but which method should I try? Or should I just go with process of elimination? If so, how long should I give each method to have a chance to work? When I checked to see if the tree was root bound it looked no where near the pictures you showed me. But I'm still transplanting the tree. I've bought a spray bottle and I mist it several times a day like crazy. Lol, I also blow my breath on the tree hoping the extra carbon dioxide along with the oxygen would somehow help it grow stronger faster.

Newt
Greener Thumb
Posts: 1868
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 10:44 pm
Location: Maryland zone 7

Please stop misting your tree until it is completely recovered. I still think too much moisture is a big part of the problem. Cut off the blackend branches to where the limb intersects with another. Have a solution of one part bleach and nine parts water ready to dip your pruning shears into between each cut. Then wipe them with a clean paper towel. When you are all done rinse them in clean water, use a little WD-40 to spray them. Then wipe with a clean paper towel. That way you won't be spreading anything.

Here's how to make the pruning cuts and other interesting info on pruning orange trees. Look especially under 'Pruning Cuts' at this first site.
https://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/prun001.htm
https://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B949-W.HTMl
https://www.citrustreesource.com/publications/other/Shedding%20Light%20On%20Pruning.pdf

If it doesn't need to be repotted it would be best to just leave it alone. You could kill it with kindness and all that fussing. These trees don't like alot of fussing after. Oh, and stop breathing on it. It really doesn't need that either. :)

Newt

HyperFerret
Full Member
Posts: 23
Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Arkansas, Zone 7

Well Dang! Everything I'm doing is just so completely wrong. :oops: If the tree was capable of any facial expression, any time I come near the tree ... :shock: would be it's facial expression.

Peachguy and some other peoples suggested that I mist the tree because they are used to humid climates. And that the tree absorbs a lot from the water on it's leaves. This is why I began misting the plant. On the breathing thing, I didn't know if it would help but I didn't know it would hurt it. Sorry.

When I took the tree out of it's pot the roots curled around the curve of the shaped soil. I could see all the ends of the roots. Is that not root bound? I was trying to say it didn't look as near as badly root bound that the photo depicted. By the way, the roots looked healthy.

Newt
Greener Thumb
Posts: 1868
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 10:44 pm
Location: Maryland zone 7

Guess it sounded like I was scolding you. So sorry. :oops: Doing too much at once here. If the roots can be seen and are circling, then it does need a new pot. Gosh, sorry I misunderstood. We'll get your tree to smile at you yet! :D

I'd say a better way to add humidity for now would be to place a tray of water next to the tree.

Newt

HyperFerret
Full Member
Posts: 23
Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Arkansas, Zone 7

I was originally going to post -- I can see little tiny tiny tiny green nubs on the branches and near where previous leaves had fallen. Are these new leaves trying to come up? If they are, then they are taking FOREVER to grow!

Now that I've glanced at the hyper links you last posted, .....I have several lateral buds. I'll look at the links again on Friday when I have more time to spare. I got on the computer kinda late and I need to sleep now to recharge my brain cells.

Just wanted to jump in here and wish all you guys a ~HAPPY THANKSGIVING !!!!!!

Newt
Greener Thumb
Posts: 1868
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 10:44 pm
Location: Maryland zone 7

Hyper Ferret, you should see leaves from the 'tiny green nubs' eventually. Try and keep in mind that trees tend to grow more in slow motion then other plants. They take their time to establish their roots. Leaves are expendable to a tree and they will shed them when they are stressed. When they are strong again, they will put out new leaves. Patience is definately required when growing trees.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving. I'm off to cook again. :roll:

Newt

feefox
Newly Registered
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:00 am
Location: NZ

I have a small Yuzu citrus tree and it is fairly young. I have put it it a big pot outside. The pot has lots of good storebought compost and dirt in it. At first it went very well and then it had four little fruit on it. Now two have dropped off. I take comfort from one of the previous replies to the person who started this post, that young trees loose most of their fruit (90%) for the first few years. Is this definatly the way it goes?

Also my lime which I have next to it in a pot, has dropped a few of its leaves and the very topmost branches are looking a bit yellow. Am I overwatering? Tonight I have put some citrus food in the pots. Also it is summer here, so there is no problem with low temperatures or anything like that. I feel so sad now when I was getting so hopeful !



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