So tomarrow I will be planting them. I have them in a pale of water right now soking is that what I should be doing right now? If not then what. I look forward to all your input. thankyou
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melissabeth2010
- Full Member
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:32 am
- Location: CT
Bare root fruit question
Hi again I need some advice on how to plant bare root apple and peach trees? Because I ordered some and they just got here yesterday.
So tomarrow I will be planting them. I have them in a pale of water right now soking is that what I should be doing right now? If not then what. I look forward to all your input. thankyou
So tomarrow I will be planting them. I have them in a pale of water right now soking is that what I should be doing right now? If not then what. I look forward to all your input. thankyou
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bullthistle
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1152
- Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:26 am
- Location: North Carolina
Most important once the hole is dug put the plant in and with one hand hold the stem and with the other back fill and tamping down the soil aroound the roots. Once the stem is able to stand on its own then water, back fill, tamp, water. If it is in a windy location then stake the plant or the first gust of wind it will be laying on the ground. You also should trim back the top growth about 25% and use manure and bone meal when backfilling.
I hope you planted them. You don't want to soak the trees longer than overnight. The roots need to breathe. I add shovelful of finished compost to the soaking water.
There are differing schools of thought about adding amendments. In recent years, istructions that comes with my trees say not to add manure or raw compost, and to use mostly native soil.
There are differing schools of thought about adding amendments. In recent years, istructions that comes with my trees say not to add manure or raw compost, and to use mostly native soil.
Survey your space to plant in. A deeply shaded spot at the bottom of the lowest part of your yard, with higher ground/buildings surrounding it may not be the best place for trees.
A spot where air flow slopes away from your tree is a better siting. Trees like sun too.
As you dig your hole what is the dirt like down there? if its sandy and the nearest peice of limesone outcrop is five miles away a little crushed limestone, and some bark mulch or finished compost (less than 20% by volume) couldn't hurt.
If the soil is full of clay rough up the sides of the hole before you refill it. A smooth sided hole can create a bowl trapping roots and water
. Again only finished compost or bark mulch as amendments.
Know that your trees are going to be fed not by fertilizers but by mutualism between the tree and mushroom family organisms.
As you refill your hole with tree in place check and keep the old soil line of the tree at its new soil line.
When your all done and soil is compacted back around the tree. Water it in really well. Add a layer of more bark mulch at least as thick as the second knuckle on your finger. Water it well too. (that bark mulch is going to feed the mushrooms that feed your tree).
I do prune new trees. leave at least 3/4 of the sapling that was shipped to you. If leaves have already erupted leave some on.
Standard rootstock (apple) trees need 25 feet of space between trees. Semidwarf (apple) and peach need 12 feet or more between trees.
Plan on watering your trees every day it does not rain till fall.
I use pretty substantial stakes. Not so much to stand tree up but to act as warning for mowers...
A spot where air flow slopes away from your tree is a better siting. Trees like sun too.
As you dig your hole what is the dirt like down there? if its sandy and the nearest peice of limesone outcrop is five miles away a little crushed limestone, and some bark mulch or finished compost (less than 20% by volume) couldn't hurt.
If the soil is full of clay rough up the sides of the hole before you refill it. A smooth sided hole can create a bowl trapping roots and water
. Again only finished compost or bark mulch as amendments.Know that your trees are going to be fed not by fertilizers but by mutualism between the tree and mushroom family organisms.
As you refill your hole with tree in place check and keep the old soil line of the tree at its new soil line.
When your all done and soil is compacted back around the tree. Water it in really well. Add a layer of more bark mulch at least as thick as the second knuckle on your finger. Water it well too. (that bark mulch is going to feed the mushrooms that feed your tree).
I do prune new trees. leave at least 3/4 of the sapling that was shipped to you. If leaves have already erupted leave some on.
Standard rootstock (apple) trees need 25 feet of space between trees. Semidwarf (apple) and peach need 12 feet or more between trees.
Plan on watering your trees every day it does not rain till fall.
I use pretty substantial stakes. Not so much to stand tree up but to act as warning for mowers...
Think like a tree
© 2016 Invisable Inc.
© 2016 Invisable Inc.
WOW What a great, thorough reply!
Just one question -- I follow the convention of water THOROUGHLY once a
day for 3 days, once every three days for a week, once a week for a month, then let nature take its course unless a drought condition exists in which case, water once a week during the first year, once every two weeks thereafter.
The idea is that this way, the tree will learn to grow roots in search of water instead of relying on being pampered.
What do you think?
Just one question -- I follow the convention of water THOROUGHLY once a
day for 3 days, once every three days for a week, once a week for a month, then let nature take its course unless a drought condition exists in which case, water once a week during the first year, once every two weeks thereafter.
The idea is that this way, the tree will learn to grow roots in search of water instead of relying on being pampered.
What do you think?
One thing I would add is that if your garden is not a very big one then you could plant your trees closer but they would require more care in their pruning.
You can come down to 15ft with safety on anything more dwarfing than a 106 stock.
Commercial growers would plant multi row beds of 9 stocks at 4ft spacings..but they do require skilled pruning to keep them under control at that distance.
As tomc says though...if you have the room plant further apart for an easier life.
You can come down to 15ft with safety on anything more dwarfing than a 106 stock.
Commercial growers would plant multi row beds of 9 stocks at 4ft spacings..but they do require skilled pruning to keep them under control at that distance.
As tomc says though...if you have the room plant further apart for an easier life.
An apple a day.....keeps me in work.