Hello, I'm new to the forum (and gardening), but have benefited a lot from others here. I've been reading all I can about pruning, and believe I have somewhat of an idea, but would like some advice from the group.
I've recently moved to Richland, WA (Eastern Washington) and have several trees that were growing in my yard that are struggling to say the least. We are zone 7 (although, probably closer to a high 6). My soil is like beach sand when I dig. I have plenty of water available, but this is a desert (hot summers, cold winters with minimal precip ~7 inches a year). At the recommendation of the local nursery, I added soil ammendments to try to help the trees (cutting out grass around the base) and mixing native soil with compost. I've also staked these younger trees to assist them with our high spring winds.
Attached are photo's of a "4 in 1" Cherry tree. My goals for this tree are to grow it much larger for shade and to produce fruit for my children to pick as they grow up (newborn and 2 1/2 years). I'm a little puzzled on pruning this because of the different varieties grafted on. The first photo is unedited. The second photo includes labels of the branches for easier discussion. The third photo shows my proposed pruning cuts (in red) and added spacers (in Orange - correct me if I don't need them). I planted this in early fall to replace a dead tree that the original occupants planted with the rootball still wrapped in plastic. I plan on pruning all of my trees in the late winter, but before spring (probably early February). Can you please give me advice? Thanks!
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/vkhq.jpg[/img]
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/tyhk.jpg[/img]
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/qfbx.jpg[/img]
Hi Brian,
Re your cherry tree.
The pruning of cherries is usually carried out in the late summer while the sap is still running.
This is to help prevent the infection of Silver Leaf and Canker.
If you do go ahead in the winter be very sure to paint all the cuts straight away with a good quality fungicide paint.
As to the pruning. The one branch that stands out in your photo is branch J. this one is so much more dominant in the tree than any other. If left to its own devises or pruned lightly it will become a major player in the tree and become the main structure branch of the tree.
I would suggest that it was hit hard down its length to take the steam out of it. The only other option would be to weight it down to as near 'cracking ' as possable to reduce its sap run.
The rest of the tree I would leave, as cherries are best left alone as much as possable.
Interested to hear others opinions on this one.
Jona.
Re your cherry tree.
The pruning of cherries is usually carried out in the late summer while the sap is still running.
This is to help prevent the infection of Silver Leaf and Canker.
If you do go ahead in the winter be very sure to paint all the cuts straight away with a good quality fungicide paint.
As to the pruning. The one branch that stands out in your photo is branch J. this one is so much more dominant in the tree than any other. If left to its own devises or pruned lightly it will become a major player in the tree and become the main structure branch of the tree.
I would suggest that it was hit hard down its length to take the steam out of it. The only other option would be to weight it down to as near 'cracking ' as possable to reduce its sap run.
The rest of the tree I would leave, as cherries are best left alone as much as possable.
Interested to hear others opinions on this one.
Jona.
-
applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30540
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Same as the apple tree -- I don't know much about pruning yet, mostly book knowledge right now. My understanding is that cherry tree sap runs copiously just before bud break -- just like maples (think Sugar Maple tapping for maple syrup). It also means that the bark readily slips so that it's very easy to injure the tree at that time. I have to check my notes on when to cut, though I'm sure JONA knows what he's talking about. I seem to remember "after blossom drop" as the correct timing though.
I think with this one, we need to know which branches are which variety. Since you've got 4 different varieties and you want to make sure to preserve all of them. Are the 4 grafted onto a 5th rootstock? Do we need to worry about that too?
I think with this one, we need to know which branches are which variety. Since you've got 4 different varieties and you want to make sure to preserve all of them. Are the 4 grafted onto a 5th rootstock? Do we need to worry about that too?
It's an interesting point Applestar about the ' bark slip ' that occurs in cherry dureing the summer months.
Many commercial growers have a problem with cherries in that if rain falls on them just as the fruit ripens then a large amount of the fruit is prone to split.
The way growers overcome this is to protect the tree with a plastic tunnel covouring from mid summer to harvest whenever rain is forecast
Problem then is control of the trees hight. the tunnels hight being set by the cost of the holding structure.
So growers have had to find a way to keep the tree low withoput loosing cropping wood.
They do this by twisting and cracking the branches down around the centre leader to form a skirt- like formation.
This takes great technique in applying just the right amount of twist to loosen the inner wood from the outer bark and bringing the branch down by cracking the internal structure without breaking through the outer bark, without the cherries ' bark slip ' ability this would not be possable.
When done well the effect is tremendous.
You have a full size tree with its full circle of cropping branches and all within easy reach.
This is all done straight after cropping while there is a full sap run still occuring.
I've tried it myself on garden trees and it really works....although you have to be ready to have the odd breakage happen and the paint pot ready.
Jona.
Many commercial growers have a problem with cherries in that if rain falls on them just as the fruit ripens then a large amount of the fruit is prone to split.
The way growers overcome this is to protect the tree with a plastic tunnel covouring from mid summer to harvest whenever rain is forecast
Problem then is control of the trees hight. the tunnels hight being set by the cost of the holding structure.
So growers have had to find a way to keep the tree low withoput loosing cropping wood.
They do this by twisting and cracking the branches down around the centre leader to form a skirt- like formation.
This takes great technique in applying just the right amount of twist to loosen the inner wood from the outer bark and bringing the branch down by cracking the internal structure without breaking through the outer bark, without the cherries ' bark slip ' ability this would not be possable.
When done well the effect is tremendous.
You have a full size tree with its full circle of cropping branches and all within easy reach.
This is all done straight after cropping while there is a full sap run still occuring.
I've tried it myself on garden trees and it really works....although you have to be ready to have the odd breakage happen and the paint pot ready.
Jona.
-
Pippin Limbertwig
- Full Member
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:22 pm
- Location: SW Virginia (Appalachia)
Jona,
Do you have a picture you could post of the trained cherries? Or a quick "how-to"?
I've got a 3-4 year old dwarf North Star (already 2 meters tall) that I'd like to try training this summer. I'm thinking it will make it easier to pick and to apply anti- bird netting. Might look dramatic in the winter as well.
Do you have a picture you could post of the trained cherries? Or a quick "how-to"?
I've got a 3-4 year old dwarf North Star (already 2 meters tall) that I'd like to try training this summer. I'm thinking it will make it easier to pick and to apply anti- bird netting. Might look dramatic in the winter as well.
Hi Pippin. Sorry I have no pictures at the moment of this form of cherry control. I have a few slides but they don't seem to come over very well on loading. I will take some digitals this summer and put them on the board in the winter.
However the principle of this form of pruning.
First thing to control is the main leader.
Choose the hight you wish the tree to finaly be.
Cut the leader to that hight by removing the strong shoot and leaving as weak a side shoot as possable. If there is no side shoot then bend the leaders top over as much as you dare and tie in that position.
Next the lower branches. Those up to lower chest hight can be left and just cut back as required to maintain shape.
Do this in late July when the sap is running well.
Side branches above this hight are the ones that must be controlled as these are the ones that will rocket away.
Take hold of each branch in turn with both hands about a foot or so from the centre leader. Bend the branch downwards and at the same time grip and twist your hands as strongly and firmly as possable. If the branch is not too thick you should feel the outer bark give under your hands and once it is loose you can carry on with the downward pull until you feel the inner wood cracking.
If the bark should rupture have the paint pot ready. It is quite suprising what the tree will tolerate.
Try on small shoots first and work up to the larger.
Work round the tree giving the upper branches a bell tent appearance.
The whole proceedure slows the trees growth down and encourages the fruit bud to form on the now slopeing branches.
Good luck.
However the principle of this form of pruning.
First thing to control is the main leader.
Choose the hight you wish the tree to finaly be.
Cut the leader to that hight by removing the strong shoot and leaving as weak a side shoot as possable. If there is no side shoot then bend the leaders top over as much as you dare and tie in that position.
Next the lower branches. Those up to lower chest hight can be left and just cut back as required to maintain shape.
Do this in late July when the sap is running well.
Side branches above this hight are the ones that must be controlled as these are the ones that will rocket away.
Take hold of each branch in turn with both hands about a foot or so from the centre leader. Bend the branch downwards and at the same time grip and twist your hands as strongly and firmly as possable. If the branch is not too thick you should feel the outer bark give under your hands and once it is loose you can carry on with the downward pull until you feel the inner wood cracking.
If the bark should rupture have the paint pot ready. It is quite suprising what the tree will tolerate.
Try on small shoots first and work up to the larger.
Work round the tree giving the upper branches a bell tent appearance.
The whole proceedure slows the trees growth down and encourages the fruit bud to form on the now slopeing branches.
Good luck.
-
Pippin Limbertwig
- Full Member
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:22 pm
- Location: SW Virginia (Appalachia)
Sorry Pippin...I don't know if this method will work on either of those.Pippin Limbertwig wrote:I'm going to try it this summer. Worst case is I go back and prune off what looks unhealthy or breaks too badly.
Does this tactic work with any other fruit trees? Apricots or peaches maybe?
Over here both apricot and peach are normaly grown as espaliers under some form of protection as our climate is not really warm enought. So they are trained hard right from the start.
Jona.