What are the best berrying shrubs for birds?

[NewjerseyTea]

Hi, I'm new to this forum. I would like to pick out a few more winter berrying shrubs for my small suburban garden that the birds would enjoy. I would like to stick with plants native to my area in northern NJ. I would prefer species if they are not too big and spreading but I do have cultivars.

Right now the only winter berrying tree I have is a very productive Ilex opaca (holly), about 40' tall. I was thinking of adding a few Ilex verticillata (winterberry).
Since space is tight I'd like to be careful with my choice. Any suggestions?

[TheLorax]

You might want to share what state you are in and preferably where you garden in that state. Don't need the city in which you live but the name of your county would be very helpful.

[NewjerseyTea]

Hi TheLorax,
I am in Essex County in Northern NJ. I'm considered Mid-Atlantic, Piedmont.

[TheLorax]

Forgot to ask, what size fruiting shrub will best fit into the space available? There are some great straight species viburnums coming to mind but they're of assorted heights. I can also think of some nice viburnum cultivars that might work well for you but need a maximum height.

Another question for you which I never thought to ask- would you be ok with planting a plant that is indigenous to say a couple hundred miles away from where you garden? I tend to stick to plants that are within a 50 mile radius of where I garden but since I am in a flyway have added plants that were native to North America but to a county about 200 miles away. Many of my personal friends stick to straight species only and then only to those they can document as being indigenous to their specific piece of heaven.

Really glad you joined NJT!

[NewjerseyTea]

Lorax. Thanks for the welcome.
I would be willing to consider native plants from a wider radius, 200 miles is OK. Since I'm suburban and have to contend with some areas that are hot, near the asphalt driveway, or near the street with road salts I'm willing to go further out to fit the plant to the spot.

I need shrubs for 2 spots. For the front, sunny garden, moist at the end of a downspout, I need something no bigger than 3' X 3'. I"m hoping to fit 3 shrubs there (2 different ares). Since those are in front of the house with native grasses nearby I need something showy for public view.

In the back, along the fence line I can go taller but not wider. The back is shady and can be dry since there is plenty of root competition from a large oak, holly, and 2 enormous non native Norway Spruce.
In the back I also wanted to add some tall evergreens for a privacy screen, just in case I ever lose the Spruces.

[TheLorax]

Clethra alnifolia (as well as any cultivars which would be classified as "of garden origin" and therefore not native) and the I. verticillata are both great downspout plants. I have a few Clethra alnifolia cultivars here. I am particularly fond of my 'Sixteen Candles' and 'Paniculata' which has large blooms. I saw a 'Hummingbird' for sale and would have tried it but it looked sort of scraggly so I passed on buying it. A local friend bought 'Ruby something or other'- no that's not the name of the cultivar but it did have Ruby in the name. It had very attractive color that you might like.

You're going to need a male and female for the Ilex verticillata.

For the back where you have space for more height, I'd seriously consider an assortment of Viburnum.

Viburnum rafinesqueanum is an all time personal favorite. Height of around 6'. V. acerifolium is another personal favorite for its leaves and its mature height which would also be somewhere around 6'. V. nudum has slightly more height and will top out at around 8-10' but this is a great wildlife plant too. Others to check out would be V. prunifolium, V. opulus var. americana, and lantanoides. I have all but one of those as most are indigenous to my area too. I love them. They're critter magnets.

From here-
https://www.npsnj.org/references.htm
Click on the hyperlink to the article written by Dan Segal titled "Value of Native Plants for Ecological Restoration". I think you might find this interesting.

For tall evergreens? So many goodies. I'd go with a few different species. A mixed privacy screen is generally healthiest for the long haul. Consider looking up these:

Thuja occidentalis
Juniperus virginiana
Ilex opaca
Pinus rigida
P. strobus
P. echinata
P. resinosa (I love this plant)
Picea rubens
Magnolia virginiana (can be deciduous or evergreen)

As an aside, Ilex glabra and Morella cerifera are both evergreen and they're both great plants but both are shrubs.

I just read the above and started poking around online and found that author must have a nursery and they provided a list of salt tolerant native plants-
https://www.pinelandsnursery.com/tree.htm

[NewjerseyTea]

Thanks Lorax for the extensive list.There is a lot to choose from.
I do have the Clethera "Hummingbird" in another area of the garden and it is a very nice shrub. I never thought of adding another near the downspout.

The Viburnums seem like a good choice but I remember hearing about a beetle that is spreading and destroying them?

I am familiar with the Native Plant Society of NJ but I can only see some of their articles on the computer, I can't seem to get the Dan Segal article.

I like the idea of a mixed evergreen privacy screen and will look up your recommendations -particularly the P. resinosa. I already have a small volunteer Ilex opaca growing along the fence line. They seem to be very slow growers.

[TheLorax]

I am so sorry that article I posted a link to did a disappearing act over night. I hate that when that happens and I just checked and it is definitely gone. I will try my best to remember to add excerpts from links so this doesn't happen again.

Ah, the notorious Viburnum Leaf Beetle, Pyrrhalta viburni. Introduced from Europe. Quite familiar with this particular invasive non-native species. Feeds exclusively on viburnums. Had the displeasure of seeing several viburnums that had been infested when I was out east last year.

I know this beastie is coming my way but I'm still planting even more viburnums in the future. Sound as if I've lost my mind? Nope, I'm just like everyone else and fear what I don't understand so I went out and did a little poking around on my own last year after I freaked out sitting here with about 5 viburnum x burkwoodii I had purchased. I now have a better understanding of Pyrrhalta viburni and its life cycle.

Although I fear EAB which is a borer, I no longer fear VLB which is a beetle and here are some of the reasons why- If you or me ever should ever be visited by this voracious beastie, we're going to know it right away because it is the only defoliator of viburnums out there. Takes the guesswork out of what might be plaguing us so we can start nipping it in the bud right away. The eggs can be destroyed anytime from fall on up until they hatch. If we miss some of the eggs, we can go for the larvae that hatch late spring/early summer. If we miss some of the larvae, then we can go for the adults.

Please take a moment to follow the link below to even more information on VLB.
https://www.hort.cornell.edu/vlb/
excerpts from the above site below:

Encourage beneficial insects. Several generalist predators feed on viburnum leaf beetle larvae including lady beetle adults and larvae, lacewing larvae and spined soldier bugs nymphs. The lady beetle adults and spined soldier bug adults also eat adult viburnum leaf beetles. Encourage these and other beneficial insects by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides and maintaining diverse species of plants for beneficial insect habitat near viburnums. Initial investigations by Cornell researchers on these biological control options also indicate that augmenting natural populations of these predators may dramatically limit viburnum leaf beetle damage. Researcher continues in this area, check back later for more information.

You and me already encourage beneficial insects by adhering to sustainable gardening practices which include but aren't limited to avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides and maintaining a diverse species of plants on our properties. we're already that far ahead!

Foil larvae. Researchers recently learned that the larvae don't drop from the leaves to the soil to pupate. Instead, they crawl down the tree. While it hasn't yet been tested, it is likely that putting a sticky barrier such as Tanglefoot tree pest barrier around the base of the shrub could keep larvae from reaching the soil to pupate.

Sure does look to me as if we're going to be in a good position to simply cut the larvae off at the pass.

Pesticide options. Some insecticides are registered for use to control viburnum leaf beetle. Most (including organic pyrethrins) contain contact poisons which can also kill beneficial insects that help keep viburnum leaf beetles in check. Alternatively, organic pesticides derived from the fungus Saccharopolyspora (spinosad) and insecticidal soap have effectively knocked back viburnum leaf beetle larvae with less damage to beneficial insects. Both spinosad and insecticidal soap are contact pesticides that require direct contact with the pest.

Insecticidal soaps to the rescue again!

Initial field trials conducted by Dr. Paul Weston also indicate that horticultural oil sprays applied to egg laying sites might reduce egg hatch by 75-80%. Horticultural oil is highly refined petroleum oil that is mixed with water and is sprayed on to coat and suffocate eggs. It is most effective when a high rate of oil (4%) is used. However, this high rate of oil can burn plant foliage so apply only before viburnum leaves emerge; mid-April is usually a safe time to make the application because the leaves usually emerge in early May. Adjust the application time to suit plant development in your area.

Horticultural oils to the rescue again!

Now add to the above what I learned on my own-
When I was out east for a week last summer, I personally observed something which may very well be why insecticides aren't working all that well on these beetles. Go over to a viburnum that has the tell tale defoliation signs present and look for the beetles munching away happily so you can pluck them… stick your hands in the shrub and you won't find them. Seems, they drop to the ground when you dare interrupt their dining experience. It took me a while to realize they were doing this. wasn't until one dropped down on my white gym shoe that I put two and two together. I got to thinking about this and then I got to thinking about those drapes they place around us before they cut our hair and lights went off in my head. Would it be possible to place a drape around an infested viburnum? Yup, it was. Place a drape around the viburnum the day before you will want to check it out. Let them all take their time crawling back up their host to finish din din. Walk over to your viburnum the next day and shake it a little or yell “booâ€

[NewjerseyTea]

Thanks Lorax, for the information on the Viburnum Leaf Beetle. The Cornell website is wonderful and covers "everything you ever wanted to know about viburnum leaf beetle and were afraid to ask". I just spent a half an hour going through it and book marked it to go back to the links to Viburnum pictures.

[opabinia51]

I like Elderberry which you can also eat. Goumi is a great one for birds and the fruit are also edible and the tree has dodules on it's roots that Nitrogen Fixing Bacteria associate with and of course fix nitrogen, making your soil more fertile. Win-win.

[TheLorax]

I don't know if this is going to work or not but I contacted that site and told them their link wasn't working and they sent me the article.

Here goes and doubt seriously if it will display as beautifully as it did when I first saw it-

[quote]Native Plants:
Values for Ecological Restoration as compared to the Ornamental Landscape trade

Dan Segal, Pinelands Nursery

While very few nurseries consider themselves “nativeâ€

[NewjerseyTea]

Lorax,
The article by Dan Segal has particular value for me because I am also involved in a reforestation project in a local county park besides my own small backyard. Basically, the reforestation project will be a ecological restoration project and we will order from the local wholesale native plant nurseries that specialize in restoration projects. For myself (most nurseries that specialize in native plants and sell species seem to be wholesale) I will buy species when possible but use some of the more ornamental cultivars to fit in the space and neighborhood.

[TheLorax]

I've never heard of an ecological restoration project that didn't include a majority of plants cultivated from seed let alone one that was going to use cultivars in its species list being able to be approved as an ecological restoration. The technical and biological aspects of restoring a property preclude the use of virtually any flora but indigenous species of local provenance with most in my county striving for plant stock from within a 50 mile radius of the project. When restoring an ecosystem, one puts back that which is documented as having naturally occurred at the site from an earlier time. To use a plant from an ecosystem a few counties over let alone a few states over just isn't done. In other words, we would be authorized to use seed collected from a plant found occurring naturally on a property 10 miles down the road and would most probably be able to get approval to start cuttings from plants of the same species occurring naturally 50 miles over the border into Wisconsin but there would be no chance we'd be approved to order the same exact plant from a nursery 200 miles down in southern Illinois or from Missouri or Iowa.

From the article I got my hands on-

The rationale for using local or regional propagules is this: plants evolve with the combined factors of temperature, seasonality, atmospheric humidity, soil types, pathogen levels, etc. Plants that have evolved under any given set of environmental conditions are more likely to succeed on a site governed by those conditions, compared to plants from elsewhere.

A second tenet of ecological restoration is that plants should be grown from seed to maximize genetic diversity. If vegetative propagation is necessary, cuttings or divisions should be taken from enough separate populations to allow for some genetic diversity. The rationale for using seed-grown plants whenever possible, and for maximizing genetic diversity, is this: the more genetic diversity, the better the chance of long-term survival.

The ultimate goal of ecological restoration should be that plants installed persist on site, reproduce, colonize and (sometimes) disperse. Ecological restorations should be designed and installed to succeed! A planting that peters out over a few years is costly, demoralizing and bad publicity for everyone involved. Plants grown from seed have the best chance of reproducing, and if they disperse, a new local population has been founded from a wide-ranging mix of genes. Conversely, if plants are grown from cuttings or tissue culture, and are all of one genome, they may be all one sex (if the plant is dioecious), or the inbreeding may result in weak offspring if fertilization occurs at all. At best, a new population may be founded, but with very limited genetic diversity.

I've got a restoration going on here at my personal property and I'm giving it my all but it would never be able to be classified as an ecological restoration no matter how many invasive and non-native species I remove and no matter how many native species I plant back.

I've been planting back species chosen based on an inventory of plants that were documented as having occurred on this property as well as from records of plants that existed locally at reference sites 15 and 25 miles away from me available to me from a research center. Although I never use cultivars in the natural areas of my property that are being restored and although some of the plants I have used were/are propagated from local genotype, most plants were not. I've been purchasing seed and plants from outside both the 50 mile local radius as well as from outside the 100 mile regional radius. There's been so much development in my area that I simply couldn't get my hands on all local and regional genotype unless I was willing to snitch from the wilds. I have plants here from central Illinois genotypes, southern Wisconsin genotypes, and also from central Wisconsin genotypes and even some from northewestern Indiana and northeastern Iowa. I do by my best to not further degrade my property by getting genotype from withing a 150 mile radius and have been successful for the most part. It takes time.

editing to add a few links-
https://www.globalrestorationnetwork.org/
https://www.ser.org/
https://www.ecologicalrestoration.info/firstpage.html

Great explanation of genetically appropriate plant materials for an ecological restoration here-
https://www.fs.fed.us/r2/publications/botany/plantgenetics.pdf

Ecological restoration for the Southwest-
https://www.eri.nau.edu/joomla/

[NewjerseyTea]

Well Lorax, that's a tremendous amount of information to sift through so it will take me awhile, thanks for all the wonderful links.. I will look into growing the plants from seed in the future seeing how important it is for the health and genetic diversity of the forest. This sounds like a great project for the junior garden club. The local garden club has it's own greenhouse that offers space. If you can offer more info., or point me in the right direction I think this could be an excellent program that will benefit both groups. I have been trying to interest the club in the reforestation project for awhile and this seems an excellent tie between the two groups.
In fact, the reforestation project has grown quickly from a small group of enthusiasts with little money to a more organized group with more funding and proper direction. They are forming a Forest Corps and I will be working at that level.
The reforestation project will not include cultivars, only my own small suburban garden will.( Am I using the wrong term when I say it will be an ecological restoration rather then a reforestation? I am an artist not a scientist so please be patient with me.) I do have to be very careful how and what I plant in my own garden since most of it is visible from the street and I have already been taken to court (and won with the help of petitions, horticulturists and the local garden club) because a neighbor doesn't like my natural style of gardening for wildlife. Which does bring me to a question I have been curious about. At about this time of year my front garden looks shabby and brown to most people. I am forced to start tidying up, cutting back grasses and seedheads. Is it of any value to tie the cut plant material into bundles and place them neatly upright along the fence line? Or once they are cut is there is no longer any value to them for birds and over wintering insects and should I just add them to the compost?

[TheLorax]

I would think it would be a great way to involve the Junior Garden Club particularly in helping remove invasive species once they are taught to properly identify them. The invasives probably should be the initial focus because they are far too successful outcompeting the natives for available resources and to put it in simple terms, they suck the nutrients out of the soil that any newly planted species would need to survive and thrive. Available water and light also become issues if the invasives are left in place particularly insomuch as they generally leaf out earlier in spring and retain their leaves longer in fall which effectively blocks light to the understory which seriously impairs the ability of the natives to regenerate. The invasives, as a rule of thumb, have longer growing seasons than the natives so any native seeds that hit the ground may not germinate or if they do they may struggle to photosynthesize in the presence of the invasives. Honeysuckle is a beast unto itself given it is allelopathic. The chemicals from the roots of that plant can do in most natives planted anywhere in the vicinity.

Propagation of native species (quite a few are double dormancies) might be best left to those who have some experience so who better than the Local Garden Club to lend a hand there. After cold stratifying my seeds, I do start many of them in my greenhouse but many are left to Ma Nature. I winter sow a lot but a greenhouse is very nice and that Local Garden Club of yours has space.

Now that you have grown from a small group of enthusiasts with little money to a more organized group with more funding, I think it is time to run (don't walk) to your State Dept of Natural Resources to tap into the professional services of your own biologists, ecologists, conservationists, and restorationists. It's your tax dollar, tap into their professional resources. Another area to pursue would be the Native Plant Society of New Jersey and after having read that article submitted from that Dan Segal of the Native Plant Society of New Jersey, he'd be one of the first people I'd contact out the gate to get my hands on any sources he may know that would be able to provide you with local genotype as well as professional guidance. First and foremost will be controlling and eradicating invasives though. They're resource hogs and if they aren't managed properly, they will thwart your best efforts.

Networking with local native plant professionals is always our best bet because they will be intimately familiar with the fragile ecosystems in our regions. I'm going to be totally honest with you, your volunteers are so psyched and excited that they may be moving too fast. Tapping into professional resources as soon as possible might help reduce the chances of your group wasting precious resources by having to take two or three steps backwards to take one step forward.

As far as plant selections, I might be inclined to remove the invasives then sit on the property to wait to see what comes back from any existing seedbank. You are so far ahead of the game in that you understand the importance of utilizing local genotype but please know you may very well be sitting on that local genotype for free and won't even know it until you remove the ickies and nasties which gives the natives a chance to rebound.

Prescribed burns can be a double edged sword. Best not to consider one until there is a complete inventory of all plants present on the land both native and introduced. Fire is one of those deals where it can come back to haunt everyone.

There are wetlands present on the property so somebody really needs to find out who has jurisdiction over the land. Might be a good idea to contact the Army Corps of Engineers. Find out what district you are in then call them and ask if they have a wetlands delineation study for your site that could be shared with you or knowledge of any reference sites in the area as to include the names and contact numbers of people associated with them.
.
The type of project you have described to me would definitely be a revegetation project with a restorative component not an ecological restoration. Any time you go in and begin to systematically and methodically manage invasive species to be able to plant more appropriate species you really need to pat yourself on the back while taking a big bow and forget the technicalities of what type of a project you have.

[TheLorax]

Forgot to mention that without artists, our world wouldn't be half as beautiful as it is. Shame I don't have any artistic gifts. Artistic gifts aren't something that can ever be acquired, one either has them or one doesn't. For as much experience as I have with regional native species of flora and fauna, I can't even design my own gardens. So, have patience with me because I'm going to be hitting up gardeners with gifts to arrange plants I've selected to make them more aesthetically appealing. I'm in desperate need of curb appeal around here.

[NewjerseyTea]

Lorax,
You suggested I contact the State Dept. of Natural Resources to tap into professional services of our own biologists, etc.
After spending a few hours looking through many sites I have no real idea of who to contact. When you worked on similar projects how did you find the correct office and or person to talk to. Please point me in the right direction if possible.

[TheLorax]

You have to remember I've always been a volunteer so generally resources are spread thin that I got on the phone and started dialing for donuts describing the project and asking who I should be discussing it with. Takes a few days to be connected with the right people but it happens. While you're at it, ask them if there's any grant money out there for removal of noxious weeds and invasive species.

If you get hung up, just get a hold of me and I will get on the phone and start dialing for donuts with you. Between the two of us, I suspect we'll be able to make plenty of good contacts.

Does your state's Conservation Dept fall under the Dept of Natural Resources of is that a separate entity?

Forgot to mention, I get good contact information from the Army Corp of Engineers and when push comes to shove, they've sent people out to me. You've got a wetlands on that property, the Army Corps is your tax dollar too and they've generally got quite a few goodies to share. Yes, they can be challenging to deal with but only if someone is trying to circumvent the laws. Work with them, and they're easy as pie and beyond supportive.

[NewjerseyTea]

Thanks Lorax for your offer of help navigate through the maze of government offices. Fortunately that task was taken over by someone more familiar with the process.

The whole reforestation project is moving along well. The first day, April 20, will be identifying, marking and removing invasive and exotic plants.

There will be the use of mini exclosures (Noahs Arcs) through the whole park. Fenced, protected, groupings of shrubs and plants with the hope these will flourish and reproduce.
This will only work if there is the public backing of continual culling of the deer. There are at least 200 deer killed horribly in traffic accidents each year in Essex County. There is little left to eat in the park so they travel on the roads to suburban gardens. Because the deer are well feed on this diet they reproduce at accelerated rates.
A friend found one of these mortally wounded deer this week dying painfully in the park and courageously held the deer and called the animal control and police to help end it's suffering.
In the past I would have been against the deer cull and would have protested but it seems critical for the total forest to be more in balance so all the creatures and plants can flourish.

[TheLorax]

Sure do wish I knew how to post a photo of 4th of July fireworks for you for this-

The first day, April 20, will be identifying, marking and removing invasive and exotic plants.

Way to go NJT! Way to go that you found somebody to get on the phone to go dialing for donuts too!

Deer could be a whole thread unto itself these days with the increase in herd numbers across the US. I think around here everyone who is anyone has hit and killed one at some point in time. It's horrible. Such a magnificent animal, shame their numbers are so out of control that they're doing such incredible damage to ecosystems these days. Exclusion fencing is the way to go if you're in an area that allows fencing.

[NewjerseyTea]

opabinia,
I just realized I didn't thank you for the elderberry suggestion.

I googled Goumi since I knew nothing about it. It isn't native to this country and on further investigation found it has naturalized in a few surrounding states. This makes me a little nervous since I have seen many exotics become serious pests in the local "natural" areas. It does not seem to be a problem in your area. Have you found any information about how it interacts with local plants?

[ahughes798]

There are 2 ways to return wild land to it's former glory.
Re-creation and restoration.

Re-creation is planting site specific natives regardless of their genotypy.

Restoration is planting site specific natives from the local genotype only.

Restoration can be much harder! Prairie Moon Nursery's stock is NE IL genotype. They're a good resource for people around here.

As The Lorax suggested, the New Jersey Native Plant Society might be a good resource, so is the New England Wildflower Society. www.newfs.org

Here is a list of Native plant societies:

https://www.michbotclub.org/links/native_plant_society.htm