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edelweiss
- Senior Member
- Posts: 232
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:34 am
- Location: Ontario, Canada,Zone 5 B
Silver Maple Seedling
Hello this is Edelweiß, today is my first day joyning the Gardening Forum. I have a 3 feet and 9 inches silver Maple seedling and it's trunk (stem) is 9 inches long, at that point it splits in 2 stems exactly in the shape of a V. Autumn is coming up , I was suggested after the leaves fell off to cut one stem off., and support the tree with a stick and piece of garden hose, to train it to grow straight. Is this a good way to do? Does this size of tree need light, tender support? I would grately appreciate some good and wise feedback! Until than, Auf Wiedersehen, Edelweiß.
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rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
I agree with removing one of the sides of the V. That will always be a weak spot and eventually when the tree gets big and the trunk and branches are heavy, it will split and maybe destroy the tree, or at least leave it looking very ugly.
The tree needs light at least until it loses its leaves and goes dormant. After that light doesn't really matter any more until spring. I'm not sure what you mean by tender support.
Welcome to the Forum! You've been very active since you found us; I enjoy your posts.
The tree needs light at least until it loses its leaves and goes dormant. After that light doesn't really matter any more until spring. I'm not sure what you mean by tender support.
Welcome to the Forum! You've been very active since you found us; I enjoy your posts.
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applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30540
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
If I'm remembering correctly, silver maple does have tendency to split so I believe this is a necessary operation.
To train the tree to straighten a branch or trunk with my espaliered fruit trees, what I do is apply a splint of thin diameter bamboo and secure in at least two places above and below the bend -- four total -- with something that is somewhat stretchy and dries relatively quickly. Nylon stockings/tights, bandages, etc.
You need the stretch because you'll need to secure somewhat snugly to force the branch into shape as much as it will give -- and the stretchy material will provide a small leeway for growth. You need to check periodically that the branch hasn't grown so much that the ties are too tight, AND to re-tie to straighten some more if it is still not completely straight.
For an older branch that doesn't have much give, I use a hay string through old cut piece of garden hose padding to pull the branch in the direction I want it to go -- tied to a ground stake or hung with weights (Inexpensive wind chimes provide a decorative option and suet feeder baskets filled with stones are great for adjustable weight
)
To train the tree to straighten a branch or trunk with my espaliered fruit trees, what I do is apply a splint of thin diameter bamboo and secure in at least two places above and below the bend -- four total -- with something that is somewhat stretchy and dries relatively quickly. Nylon stockings/tights, bandages, etc.
You need the stretch because you'll need to secure somewhat snugly to force the branch into shape as much as it will give -- and the stretchy material will provide a small leeway for growth. You need to check periodically that the branch hasn't grown so much that the ties are too tight, AND to re-tie to straighten some more if it is still not completely straight.
For an older branch that doesn't have much give, I use a hay string through old cut piece of garden hose padding to pull the branch in the direction I want it to go -- tied to a ground stake or hung with weights (Inexpensive wind chimes provide a decorative option and suet feeder baskets filled with stones are great for adjustable weight
)
Last edited by applestar on Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.