Sad looking Nandina Firepower bushes

[AnimalBabe]

Hi, I planted four Nandina Firepower shrubs in my front yard last year and I'm wondering if they are supposed to look the way they do. They don't look like they grew at all since planting, and I personally think they look rather thin/stringy. I found this pic online and this is pretty much what mine look like:
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep381 (the first pic that says "new growth")
The leaves don't really turn that red unlike the description of this plant. I was looking at them and pushed aside some of the mulch from last year, and am wondering if it's because I didn't plant them deep enough. I don't know if this is a really shallow rooted plant, but I can see about an inch of the rootball. Should I dig them out now and plant them deeper? Any advice?
Thanks!

[bullthistle]

If you are new to landscaping the odds are great you blew it on planting but that said since they are not dead there is a still a chance. The crown of the plants must be level with the soil. Not higher not lower. Also you must tamp down the soul when backfilling, use the end of your shovel and tamp down the soil. Water at leasr twice a week in the evening.

[AnimalBabe]

Bullthistle, you really didn't answer any of my questions. I'm not entirely new to landscaping as you put it so kindly, but not an expert of course, which is why I'm here asking for advice. I know that you are not always supposed to plant level with the soil, particularly with azaleas and rhododendrons, which are supposed to be slightly above the soil line so they settle in later after watering. I guess that's why I planted these in a similar manner.

Rather than digging them out entirely I was wondering if there was another solution, perhaps putting some gardening soil or topsoil around them, and mulching more heavily.

[bullthistle]

FYI I did not tell you to dig up the plants. Please re-read what I suggested. People do take shortcuts when planting for any number of reasons and then blame the problem on the plants. If they were healthy when a person buys the plants and not healthy after planting then guess what?

[applestar]

I have a smallish nandina my mom gave me as a seedling. I planted it in a sunny spot that gets deep level leach water from my little raingarden/rice paddy and I see that I amended the location with a lot of sand. (clay subsoil)

at this point, I don't remember exactly what the requirements were but judging from these, I suspect they need relatively constant moisture in a well drained location? Perhaps that's why you planted yours above grade. But maybe the exposed roots was detrimental to establishing in the last year.

I would hill the exposed rootball with a mixture of sand, topsoil and compost, then mulch well with something to stabilize the mound from washing away until the roots take good hold.

[WildcatNurseryman]

Semi-evergreens like Nandina tend to take a bit of a beating in the winter on their old growth. Newly planted Nandina would take it a little worse. They have little root to support the broad, wind and cold ravaged leaf from the previous season. Once the plant becomes established that should dissipate, unless the winter is particularly harsh.
The color of your Nandina will vary from year to year and even from plant to plant. Rain, light and exposure play roles in the fall color.
A bag a pine-soil conditioner spread across the exposed roots followed by a thin layer of mulch should do the trick as far as not having to replant; basically berming up to the correct level.
I would say you have zero to worry about when it comes to this particular plant. As a matter of fact when I have a commercial client or a black-thumbed client, in general, Firepower Nandina is a can't miss as far as survival is concerned.
Another year in the ground and you will start to see a little more growth, and the third year even more. Good luck.

[cant_grow_bacteria]

My username should say it all....

I'm having 9 Nandinas planted Friday along the foundation of my house. There will always see the morning sun & should never take a direct hit from the western winds. Black mulch will be applied.

Is there anything (politely) I should request of my "landscaper" in advance.

[WildcatNurseryman]

As far as mulch is concerned DO NOT use dyed mulch. I have seen what goes into it and it isn't pretty. They use the WOOD of the tree in the form of 2 x 4's, pallets (who knows what chemical was shipped on that pallet) and building debris. The BARK of the tree breaks down into good growing soil in less than a 5th of the time that dyed black mulch will and provides a great soil for the future. The longer it takes for a material to break down the more the material is stealing nitrogen from your soil and plants. No good for anyone involved. I always use a product called 'Living' Mulch that includes 80% shredded bark and 20% compost. You may not have access to this particular type and simple premium grade hardwood mulch is very good as well. Pine straw and pine bark planting medium are also excellent mulches although the first mulching after planting it is best to use shredded hardwood to provide a moist base, as pine straw needs several years or one VERY deep initial application in order to trap sufficient moisture for roots. Good luck.