I was browsing Google for sites to buy fruit trees. Originally I was intending to find a tangelo tree to plant in a container, but the one site I came across (they didn't carry any citrus trees, but I was curious about "bare root" trees) sells a good variety of fruit trees. The main thing about their products is that the trees are sold bare root, which I learned meant that the trees are sold when they are dormant, without soil on the root mass. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to purchasing a bare root tree to grow in a container, or am I better off either starting seeds or buying an established tree with full roots and soil on the root mass?
I've got my eye on a rainier cherry miniature tree for a container!
Oh, and the site is www.baylaurelnursery.com in case anyone here has ever dealt with them before.
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rainbowgardener
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It generally takes fruit trees 2-4 years to start producing fruit, but that is from planting the seedling you would buy. Starting it from seed adds a couple years to that and they will need a lot of care during that time, newly sprouted trees are very vulnerable.
Balled and burlapped trees will be WAY more expensive than bare root and are usually not available for fall planting, only spring. They are good if you want to spend the money to buy a large specimen tree. Otherwise if you have the same size trees one balled and bagged and one bare root, the B&B one is likely to get some head start the first year, from having less disturbance to the roots, but by the second year it will likely have evened out.
Balled and burlapped trees will be WAY more expensive than bare root and are usually not available for fall planting, only spring. They are good if you want to spend the money to buy a large specimen tree. Otherwise if you have the same size trees one balled and bagged and one bare root, the B&B one is likely to get some head start the first year, from having less disturbance to the roots, but by the second year it will likely have evened out.
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thanrose
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Other than the fun of internet shopping, is there a reason you want to buy online? I ask because Central Florida has scads of nurseries. Like Lucas, I think, in Oviedo southish. And out towards Zellwood, tons more. The big citrus nurseries will often have other fruit trees, too.
Cherries in O-town, not so much. And you are right, the chill hours requirement is a killer most of the time. I strongly suggest that you try not to disappoint yourself by buying a tree that just barely makes the zone. It's interesting to push the limits, but you have to accept your losses.
Also check out ECHO down Ft Myers way or further. On line, but they have a nursery you could visit, too. Lots of edibles. If they have a cherry tree, you can bet you can grow it too. I know they have apple varieties that will fruit in Florida or they can recommend some.
Cherries in O-town, not so much. And you are right, the chill hours requirement is a killer most of the time. I strongly suggest that you try not to disappoint yourself by buying a tree that just barely makes the zone. It's interesting to push the limits, but you have to accept your losses.
Also check out ECHO down Ft Myers way or further. On line, but they have a nursery you could visit, too. Lots of edibles. If they have a cherry tree, you can bet you can grow it too. I know they have apple varieties that will fruit in Florida or they can recommend some.
Actually my wife and I went and checked out some of the trees at Lukas Nursery (yes, it is in Oviedo as you stated), but the prices were quite high, though I know their products are excellent in quality. I've been searching online mostly because I didn't know where to find varieties of fruit trees that aren't citrus or peaches in my area.
We've decided to try to grow a pomegranate tree in a container and I've found a 'Wonderful' variety of pomegranate at a site called Peaceful Valley for a price that's more affordable because it is a decently small, young tree (2-3 feet tall). To my knowledge, theirs isn't bare root. It comes potted. This variety is supposed to be heat and drought tolerant so it should definitely do well in my zone. Also, I've read that the height of pomegranate trees usually ranges between 8-12 feet, so I think with some pruning, it will be a manageable height for me.
The one site that was selling bare root poms was actually more expensive per plant, and I'd have to wait until the beginning of the new year to receive it, which is one drawback.
We've decided to try to grow a pomegranate tree in a container and I've found a 'Wonderful' variety of pomegranate at a site called Peaceful Valley for a price that's more affordable because it is a decently small, young tree (2-3 feet tall). To my knowledge, theirs isn't bare root. It comes potted. This variety is supposed to be heat and drought tolerant so it should definitely do well in my zone. Also, I've read that the height of pomegranate trees usually ranges between 8-12 feet, so I think with some pruning, it will be a manageable height for me.
The one site that was selling bare root poms was actually more expensive per plant, and I'd have to wait until the beginning of the new year to receive it, which is one drawback.
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applestar
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When internet shopping for fruit trees, I always verify *their* USDA Zone. Being in Florida, I guess you just have to watch that they weren't grown too far north or in a much drier climate -- in terms of heat/humidity adaptation, as well as the chill hours that you mentioned. I watch out for both north and south.
Advantage in purchasing bareroot trees on-line is that you can usually find more choices -- type of fruit, cultivars within the fruit variety -- especially disease resistance -- and root stock. USUALLY they're less expensive to ship (you're not paying for container and dirt), and if you're planning to grow organically, you don't have to worry about bringing in possibly contaminated soil. You're also not acquiring possible pests with the container and soil.
Potted trees are least subject to transplant shock, B&B trees next (these are field grown, then root pruned -- hopefully, then dug up), and finally bareroot. Technically, potted trees can be planted at any time -- though it's best to avoid the worst weather times of the year (too dry, too wet, too hot, etc.). B&B trees have a narrower window but can be planted up to the beginning or starting at the end of the growing season. Bareroot, as you said, need to be planted during the dormant season.
I believe there are some typical size ranges for the three methods -- B&B I should think is the method with the most mature trees. Potted trees are usually the smallest.
If exactly what you want is available locally grown, I think that would be the best choice for your garden because it is already locally adapted, and you have an actual person to go to for help or to claim for refund in case of problems or failure to thrive.
When internet shopping, you can get a feel for their quality of service by contacting them (email or phone) PRIOR TO PURCHASE and asking questions. Ask for help in selection, describe your garden and your plans for the tree, etc.
Advantage in purchasing bareroot trees on-line is that you can usually find more choices -- type of fruit, cultivars within the fruit variety -- especially disease resistance -- and root stock. USUALLY they're less expensive to ship (you're not paying for container and dirt), and if you're planning to grow organically, you don't have to worry about bringing in possibly contaminated soil. You're also not acquiring possible pests with the container and soil.
Potted trees are least subject to transplant shock, B&B trees next (these are field grown, then root pruned -- hopefully, then dug up), and finally bareroot. Technically, potted trees can be planted at any time -- though it's best to avoid the worst weather times of the year (too dry, too wet, too hot, etc.). B&B trees have a narrower window but can be planted up to the beginning or starting at the end of the growing season. Bareroot, as you said, need to be planted during the dormant season.
I believe there are some typical size ranges for the three methods -- B&B I should think is the method with the most mature trees. Potted trees are usually the smallest.
If exactly what you want is available locally grown, I think that would be the best choice for your garden because it is already locally adapted, and you have an actual person to go to for help or to claim for refund in case of problems or failure to thrive.
When internet shopping, you can get a feel for their quality of service by contacting them (email or phone) PRIOR TO PURCHASE and asking questions. Ask for help in selection, describe your garden and your plans for the tree, etc.
AS, both the bareroot and the potted plants I've been looking at are coming from California in Zone 9, and I'm also in zone 9 but in Florida, which works out great. I was thinking of giving both places a call anyhow because I was curious as to any kind of warranty from shipping or even life of the plant (granted I would claim all responsibility if it died at my home if it was fine when I received it and was able to care for it for some time). Local nurseries near me are lacking any fruiting trees that aren't citrus these days, guessing likely due to the season, so I may just give one of these online stores a shot. If it doesn't work out in the end, score one for wisdom.
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bullthistle
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Whatever direction that you go in just remember bare root trees need the extra care in planting. Whereas potted plants need to be backfilled and the soil tamped down around the edges to remove air pockets when you plant bare root, each time you add soil it must be tamped down with the end of the shovel around the roots and if in a windy location staking will be required otherwise you would have gone through the process in vain. Air pockets kill as many plants as underwatering/overwatering.
Peaceful Valley is in Grass Valley, California. I'm surprised to hear that Grass Valley is considered USDA Zone 9.
Grass Valley lies in Sunset climate zone 7, California's Gray Pine Belt and Oregon's Rogue River Valley:
"Deciduous fruit trees that benefit from chilly winters and warm summers to well; the region is noted for its pears, apples, peaches, and cherries.....For such a large area, it is impossible to state exact low temperatures, but at weather-recording stations in Zone 7, the typical winter lows range from 23 to 9 deg F (-5 to -13 deg C), and the record lows vary from 15 to -1 deg F (-9 to -18 deg C)" (Sunset Western Garden Book, 2001 ed., p. 41).
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Grass Valley lies in Sunset climate zone 7, California's Gray Pine Belt and Oregon's Rogue River Valley:
"Deciduous fruit trees that benefit from chilly winters and warm summers to well; the region is noted for its pears, apples, peaches, and cherries.....For such a large area, it is impossible to state exact low temperatures, but at weather-recording stations in Zone 7, the typical winter lows range from 23 to 9 deg F (-5 to -13 deg C), and the record lows vary from 15 to -1 deg F (-9 to -18 deg C)" (Sunset Western Garden Book, 2001 ed., p. 41).
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
my apologies, I researched it again, I think I must have typed the zip code incorrectly, but you're right. peaceful valley is located in usda zone 7B. also, bay laurel is in 8B instead of 9A.cynthia_h wrote:Peaceful Valley is in Grass Valley, California. I'm surprised to hear that Grass Valley is considered USDA Zone 9.
Grass Valley lies in Sunset climate zone 7, California's Gray Pine Belt and Oregon's Rogue River Valley:
"Deciduous fruit trees that benefit from chilly winters and warm summers to well; the region is noted for its pears, apples, peaches, and cherries.....For such a large area, it is impossible to state exact low temperatures, but at weather-recording stations in Zone 7, the typical winter lows range from 23 to 9 deg F (-5 to -13 deg C), and the record lows vary from 15 to -1 deg F (-9 to -18 deg C)" (Sunset Western Garden Book, 2001 ed., p. 41).
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Hi
Many trees can not ship from other states to Florida,specialy from Cal, Tex aslo it is true that many trees can not ship to Calfornia fron florida. Frolida and California compeating in nursery trade, citrus tread.. Peach from Georga can not ship to South Calorina, texas. cherry can not ship to Oregon, washington to from Gerogia.
Before look trees , mAake it sure that you can bring tree can be ship to Florida.
Dade county, Broward cunty have over 600 nursery. west palm county have 500 or so nursery menmbers of FNGA. If you can find localy it is better.
Call your extension service to locate nursery or call FNGA and ask for plants locator guide book. Plants which Crossing state line is not easy as you think. Please check it if you can bring plants from other states before you order.
yama
Many trees can not ship from other states to Florida,specialy from Cal, Tex aslo it is true that many trees can not ship to Calfornia fron florida. Frolida and California compeating in nursery trade, citrus tread.. Peach from Georga can not ship to South Calorina, texas. cherry can not ship to Oregon, washington to from Gerogia.
Before look trees , mAake it sure that you can bring tree can be ship to Florida.
Dade county, Broward cunty have over 600 nursery. west palm county have 500 or so nursery menmbers of FNGA. If you can find localy it is better.
Call your extension service to locate nursery or call FNGA and ask for plants locator guide book. Plants which Crossing state line is not easy as you think. Please check it if you can bring plants from other states before you order.
yama
To add my own two-penneth to this discussion.
To my mind it all depends on where you are and how old the trees you plan to plant are.
If you are near enough to the nursery to collect yourself then it will always be cheaper and the quality can be checked more easily.
Bare root trees nead to be at most two year old, anything older will need top work to reduce transperation after re-planting. ( Most growers plant maiden trees ( First year of leaf after grafting ).
And of course they must be dormant at planting.
If delivery is by mail order then the roots must be very well protected against drying out....something they can do very quickly.
If you buy pot grown trees then try to check the age of the tree. A tree that has been potted for several years can be very reluctant to actually spread its root system once planted out without a lot of root teasing at planting.
As to root growth ....it may be of interest that it is possable to actually remove all the side roots of a maiden apple tree and still get good planting results.
It should only be tried on maiden trees though.
We planted a thousand intensively planted apple trees in two days with this method.
The is a system known as Stringfellowing. It dates back to Victorian times when to was first attempted.
A hole was made in the ground with a heavy metal dibber bar, the main roots were cut off the trees just leaving the fine 'hair ' roots behind, then the tree was jammed into the hole and stamped firmly in. Then they were tied firmly to a stake to prevent wind rock.
This was on solid Wealden Clay....a rather nasty stuff...and we lost just ten trees out of the thousand.
Trees planted in the traditional way ran the risk of the hole becoming a water pot after planting in such heavy soil.
They were on a 106 root stock with a an MM9 interstock.
To say we were nervous at the start would be an understatement but it really worked.
You have to be brave when you first attempt it though......it looks so barbaric.
To my mind it all depends on where you are and how old the trees you plan to plant are.
If you are near enough to the nursery to collect yourself then it will always be cheaper and the quality can be checked more easily.
Bare root trees nead to be at most two year old, anything older will need top work to reduce transperation after re-planting. ( Most growers plant maiden trees ( First year of leaf after grafting ).
And of course they must be dormant at planting.
If delivery is by mail order then the roots must be very well protected against drying out....something they can do very quickly.
If you buy pot grown trees then try to check the age of the tree. A tree that has been potted for several years can be very reluctant to actually spread its root system once planted out without a lot of root teasing at planting.
As to root growth ....it may be of interest that it is possable to actually remove all the side roots of a maiden apple tree and still get good planting results.
It should only be tried on maiden trees though.
We planted a thousand intensively planted apple trees in two days with this method.
The is a system known as Stringfellowing. It dates back to Victorian times when to was first attempted.
A hole was made in the ground with a heavy metal dibber bar, the main roots were cut off the trees just leaving the fine 'hair ' roots behind, then the tree was jammed into the hole and stamped firmly in. Then they were tied firmly to a stake to prevent wind rock.
This was on solid Wealden Clay....a rather nasty stuff...and we lost just ten trees out of the thousand.
Trees planted in the traditional way ran the risk of the hole becoming a water pot after planting in such heavy soil.
They were on a 106 root stock with a an MM9 interstock.
To say we were nervous at the start would be an understatement but it really worked.
You have to be brave when you first attempt it though......it looks so barbaric.