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Franco
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Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:21 pm
Location: New Jersey

Mugu (?) Pine worms

I am not completely sure how to spell it but I have two mugu pine bushes in the front of my house and 2 in the back and every year these worms eat almost a quarter of the bush! They start out black and then they shed their skin and then look green-ish. How can I prevent these things from coming, they are right next to my front steps and are VERY unatractive.

Newt
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 10:44 pm
Location: Maryland zone 7

Hi Franco,

You have spelled it correctly. :) Mugo pine is attacked by the European pine sawfly, but the larvae start out green with black heads and then change color as they age. Is this what you see?
https://woodypests.cas.psu.edu/FactSheets/InsectFactSheets/html/European_Pine_Sawfly.html

Newt

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Franco
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Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:21 pm
Location: New Jersey

Yes that is exactly it! How do I prevent them!? I've used a spray annualy and it doesn't seem to work.

Newt
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 10:44 pm
Location: Maryland zone 7

Franco, not sure what you used and if it's rated from them. Timing is also important as to what you use and when you use it since there are different stages of development of these critters. I think you got so excited that you forgot to scroll down to 'Management Options'. And just below that you can click on 'Control Measures for European Pine Sawfly'.

Hope that helps,
Newt

opabinia51
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Location: Victoria, BC

Hi Franco, I just wanted to throw my two bits in here as well.

Some organic ideas:

Instead of using pesticides try spraying the tree with a soap and water solution or a Neem Oil soap that will make it harder for the larvae to hold onto the tree. You have to catch them when they are small. I'd read the Neem Oil thread in the general forum to see if it will indeed work with the problem before trying it out though.

I'm going to advise against using any pesticides because in the long run, they tend to cause more problems than they cause.

opabinia51
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Yes, I have gone and made the neem oil thread a sticky in the general forum so that it is easier to find. I have re-read the thread and I think that neem oil would help in your situation. I will still recommend that you reed the thread and post any questions that you might have.

Newt
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Op, thanks for that info about the Neem oil. The site I gave Franco says:
Cultural
When possible, species more resistant to the European pine sawfly should be used. For example, northern cultivars of Scots pine are known to be more resistant to attack than southern ones.

Biological
There are several parasites and native birds that feed on European pine sawfly larvae. Also, rodents often eat the pupae in the soil. However, these biocontrols do not usually provide adequate control of the pest in the landscape and the nursery.

Mechanical
If detected, the needles containing over-wintering eggs can be removed from the host and destroyed. Colonies of young larvae can also be eliminated by removing and destroying infested branch terminals.

Chemical
Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are effective if used when the sawfly larvae are small.
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Maybe we should put a sticky in this section too.

Newt

opabinia51
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Location: Victoria, BC

Yes, thanks Newt I had looked at the site. Even though Scott has corrected me by saying that insecticidal soaps don't contain insecticides, I haven't actually looked at labels (sp?) and am still a little leary when I see the words.


Anyway, good site!

Newt
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Location: Maryland zone 7

Op, you probably already know this, but be VERY careful using any anti-bacterial soap if you make your own, especially on veggies or fruits, as these soaps contain toxins.
https://www.glrc.org/story.php3?story_id=3024

Soap can also be lethal to some beneficial bugs, so I use it with care, even the insecticidal soaps can harm some beneficials.

Soap can also be phytotoxic and can adversely effect some plants. From this site:
https://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/leasttoxic.html
One of the most serious potential drawbacks to the use of soap-detergent sprays is their phytotoxicity. Certain plants are sensitive to these sprays and may be seriously injured. The risk of plant damage is greater with homemade preparations of household soaps or detergents. When in doubt, test soap-detergent sprays for phytotoxicity problems on a small area a day or two before an extensive area is treated. Plant injury can be reduced by using sprays that are diluted more than the 2 to 3 percent suggested on label instructions. To reduce leaf injury, wash plants within a couple of hours after the application. Limiting the number of soap applications can also be important, as leaf damage can accumulate with repeated exposure.
Newt

opabinia51
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Excellant information Newt. This is what I like to see.



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