Saucer magnolias from seed?
Rather than buy expensive potted saucer magnolias from a local nursery, I'd like to grow a pair of my own from the seeds I gathered last September so I can plant them in the front lawn to replace 2 Norfolk Island pines which are getting too big. So far I've tried planting the seeds in a mix of wood shavings and manure, but none sprouted... should I try more seeds, but in Jiffy disks or Miracle Gro seed starting mix?
I found these sites with specific information on how to grow magnolias from seed. The first 2 links relate specifically to saucer magnolias (Magnolia x soulangiana.)
https://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/2452/
"Propagation Methods:
From woody stem cuttings
Scarify seed before sowing
Seed Collecting:
Remove fleshy coating on seeds before storing"
https://en.allexperts.com/q/Seeding-Propagation-733/2008/10/Saucer-Magnolia-magnolia-x.htm
"Answer
HI Chris,
Thanx for your question. For best results, cold-treat the seed for 60-90 days by placing the seeds in a damp paper towel and place inside a plastic baggie and seal it. Place it inside of the refrigerator and leave it there for 60-90 days. After that, plant the seeds 1/2 inch deep in a pot of good potting soil and keep it warm and moist, not, soggy. Keep it under a 40-watt shop light and germination should begin about 3-4 weeks. Germination can be erratic so give the seeds 3-6 months to finish germinating. I don't have any figures on the germination rate. I hope this helps.
Tom "
https://www.thompson-morgan.com/info/articles/magnolias.html
"M x soulangiana is a frequent setter of seed, although not a prolific one. It is not as easy to spot, as its taurus does not turn bright red as so many others do, but goes a sort of dull red-purple that is more usually associated with the noses of those to whom the bottle has become an essential accessory. I suppose it is worth sowing, although I have seldom summoned up the enthusiasm to do so, and when I have it has failed to germinate. I am, therefore, unable to comment further, as it would be illogical for me to state that it does or does not come up and make plants whose flowers are worth the wait."
And:
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/newsletters/hortupdate/julaug,5/Magnolia.html
"Cutting grown plants are vastly superior to most seedlings because they begin flowering the first year or two after propagation while seedlings may take 15 to 20 years to bloom. Rooting magnolias is not easily done. Even with intermittent mist systems and rooting hormones, he percentage of successfully rooted cuttings is often very low and best left to nurserymen and other professional horticulturists.
There are frequent requests to my office for instructions on growing magnolias from seed. The seeds should be collected as soon as possible after the fruit is mature which is usually mid-September or early October. The cone-like fruit should be spread out to dry for several days until they open. The seeds can then be shaken from the dried cone or fruit.
If the seed is to be kept for any length of time, the red pulp should be allowed to dry enough to lose its fleshy character, placed in sealed containers and stored at 32 to 41 degrees F. If stored over winter at room temperature seed will lose its viability. The seed should be cleaned before planting or stratifying. To remove the fleshy seed coat, soak the seed overnight in warm water. Remove the seed coat by rubbing against hardware cloth or window screening. After cleaning, the seeds should be sown immediately or stored for 3 to 6 months at about 40 degrees F and planted in the spring. An excellent way to stratify seeds is to use a polyethylene bag and place alternating layers of a moist medium such as a sand and peat mixture and seeds in the bag. Tie the top of the bag and place in a refrigerator at about 40 degrees. The medium should be just moist enough to stick together but not so wet that it will drip if squeezed by hand.
Whether sown in the fall or stratified in the refrigerator and sown in the spring, the seeds should be covered with about l/4" of soil and mulched to prevent drying. Seedbeds should be kept moist until germination is complete. Partial shade should be provided the first summer for seedlings."
https://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/2452/
"Propagation Methods:
From woody stem cuttings
Scarify seed before sowing
Seed Collecting:
Remove fleshy coating on seeds before storing"
https://en.allexperts.com/q/Seeding-Propagation-733/2008/10/Saucer-Magnolia-magnolia-x.htm
"Answer
HI Chris,
Thanx for your question. For best results, cold-treat the seed for 60-90 days by placing the seeds in a damp paper towel and place inside a plastic baggie and seal it. Place it inside of the refrigerator and leave it there for 60-90 days. After that, plant the seeds 1/2 inch deep in a pot of good potting soil and keep it warm and moist, not, soggy. Keep it under a 40-watt shop light and germination should begin about 3-4 weeks. Germination can be erratic so give the seeds 3-6 months to finish germinating. I don't have any figures on the germination rate. I hope this helps.
Tom "
https://www.thompson-morgan.com/info/articles/magnolias.html
"M x soulangiana is a frequent setter of seed, although not a prolific one. It is not as easy to spot, as its taurus does not turn bright red as so many others do, but goes a sort of dull red-purple that is more usually associated with the noses of those to whom the bottle has become an essential accessory. I suppose it is worth sowing, although I have seldom summoned up the enthusiasm to do so, and when I have it has failed to germinate. I am, therefore, unable to comment further, as it would be illogical for me to state that it does or does not come up and make plants whose flowers are worth the wait."
And:
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/newsletters/hortupdate/julaug,5/Magnolia.html
"Cutting grown plants are vastly superior to most seedlings because they begin flowering the first year or two after propagation while seedlings may take 15 to 20 years to bloom. Rooting magnolias is not easily done. Even with intermittent mist systems and rooting hormones, he percentage of successfully rooted cuttings is often very low and best left to nurserymen and other professional horticulturists.
There are frequent requests to my office for instructions on growing magnolias from seed. The seeds should be collected as soon as possible after the fruit is mature which is usually mid-September or early October. The cone-like fruit should be spread out to dry for several days until they open. The seeds can then be shaken from the dried cone or fruit.
If the seed is to be kept for any length of time, the red pulp should be allowed to dry enough to lose its fleshy character, placed in sealed containers and stored at 32 to 41 degrees F. If stored over winter at room temperature seed will lose its viability. The seed should be cleaned before planting or stratifying. To remove the fleshy seed coat, soak the seed overnight in warm water. Remove the seed coat by rubbing against hardware cloth or window screening. After cleaning, the seeds should be sown immediately or stored for 3 to 6 months at about 40 degrees F and planted in the spring. An excellent way to stratify seeds is to use a polyethylene bag and place alternating layers of a moist medium such as a sand and peat mixture and seeds in the bag. Tie the top of the bag and place in a refrigerator at about 40 degrees. The medium should be just moist enough to stick together but not so wet that it will drip if squeezed by hand.
Whether sown in the fall or stratified in the refrigerator and sown in the spring, the seeds should be covered with about l/4" of soil and mulched to prevent drying. Seedbeds should be kept moist until germination is complete. Partial shade should be provided the first summer for seedlings."