fabulousmindy wrote:I have one plant so far with blossom end rot. I was so upset to see my first ripe tomatoe was inedible!!!
BER is caused most of the time by inconsistent moisture levels in the soil, not lack of calcium.
The others are from areas that have been depleted by overuse or other improper farming of the land.
Generally rot just happens ...because of bugs, whatever. Throw it away and don't worry about it. Unless every tomato has it it just is not worth the trouble. Note it and move on.
A few years back that was known as "Don't worry! Be Happy!"
fabulousmindy wrote:I read you can apply calcium to fix the soil. I have been growing tomatoes for several years in the same area (suburban gradener). Last year we added manure and this year a "topsoil plus".
That being true, I'll go out on the limb and state there is not a lack of calcium problem.
There may be a need for Mg(epsom salts can supply that) but calcium, to my knowledge, is plentiful enough in COW manure whether green or composted.
However, the way to find out for certain is to dig four inches down and then take a scoop of soil and place into a clean container. Repeat in two other areas near the plants. Mix it all together and take a cup's worth to the local extension service and have it tested. This time of year, it probably won't take more than a week to get the results back. The test is usually at no charge, BTW.
Try not to damage the roots when digging,
If the area has not been limed in four years, applying it is generally rec'd. You NEED the soil test to know how much to apply. ( Guessing is bad. )
fabulousmindy wrote:The plant with the problem is close to asparagus and zuchinni if that matters.
Not bad, in truth it has been stated that "When you plant tomatoes with asparagus, they complement each other and help each other thrive." but it would be better still if there were marigolds, basil, lovage, carrots &|R other "companion" plants near, very near, to the tomatoes. (dill since near the zuc's w/b esp. good)
Companion plants do not work too good when they are "in the area" - they have to be *next to* the plants, as in as close as proper spacing, light, etc. will allow. And there have to be quite a few of them, I will add.
Water regularly. RAIN, if you should be so lucky, is the best water the plants can get. But as they say, "when it rains, it pours" and the soil becomes saturated. ... Watering regularly will even out the moisture level so that it is more consistent. Note that "moist" is not "wet" for this! If it pours, give the soil enuf time to dry before watering again.
A LOT of rain can still screw the pooch, so to speak, because it can leech nutrients from the immediate area so fertilize regularly also. Not too much, just enuf to counterbalance what the plant needs and consumes.
If you cannot add some moisture to the soil every few days, then mulch around the plants out to the drip line to reduce the loss via transpiration.
Finally , next year and at least every two years, plant tomatoes in a different location. (I.e., you need two or three 'areas' to rotate around. ) Planting beans with inoculated seed(for nitrogen fixation) is a good follow up rotation crop,
Since it is Sunday, I must add that giving thanks to the Almighty, however y'all conceive It to be, that you are able to have any tomato plants, and fruit from them, would be a good thing,
. idunno if it will help the plants but it surely will help you. It always does me.