snorasaur
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Joined: Wed May 26, 2021 9:24 am

Help idenntifying tomato problems

I just bought 2 plants from my local store, and put them in my brand new garden bed. only to notice, upon further inspection, that they don't look good. leaves are curling, discolored, have brown and white spots. I'm pretty new at this, so any help would be appreciated.



Here are the pics:
tomato-leaf-small.jpg
also I have a few questions.

-can these plants be saved?

-if not, whats the best way to remove them from my brand new raised garden bed?

-if I remove them, how much soil do I have to remove from the raised bed? its 96" long, 48" wide, and I planted the 2 tomatos on one of the far ends.

-can this infection spread to my other plants in the garden bed? (midnight eggplant, jalapeno, and "big daddy" sweet peppers)

-Also I got some good pictures of 2 different bugs crawling on the leaves. Are these little guys ok to be there? if not, any tips for removing them and preventing their return?



also, someone online mentioned to water the ground of the tomato plants at night, and if the morning the leaf curl looks better, than it may be due to heat or lack of water, but there was no change in leaf curl or discoloration.

again, any help would be much appreciated. I still have them in the planter for now. but may remove them soon, if I cant figure out a better solution.

thanks

snorasaur
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Posts: 5
Joined: Wed May 26, 2021 9:24 am

I went back to the store, with pictures, but the guy couldnt see em to well in the sun, and gave us 2 more plants. its a local shop, they don't even have a website or phone.

sadly, there are similar signs on these 2 plants.

I thought I would update u guys with as much info as possible, so here are some more pictures of the 2 new plants, still in the plastic pots.

keep in mind, some of the leaf curl and stem bending on these could be due to the plastic pots being bunched up on tables where they are sold. I just got them from the store yesterday.

pics:
tomato-leaf-spots.jpg
also I wanted to note, that the plants in the bed, have only been planted 2 days ago.

snorasaur
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Posts: 5
Joined: Wed May 26, 2021 9:24 am

additional info:

-they have been in the garden bed about 2 days.

-I live in central jersey

-I bought the planting soil from costco
www.costco.com/whitney-farms-organic-planting-soil-50-qt..product.100572741.html

-the bed is about 18inches of this, over 1 layer of cardboard, over the lawn which I mowed down as low as I could.

-no fertilizer

-they should get a good amount of sun, but the last 2 days have been partially cloudy.

-ive been watering em often, I stick my finger in, and it comes out dark with moist spots sticking on to it, but not anywhere close to mud. (not sure if this is a good deescription) the soil is darker, because its what came with the pot. must be a diff mix, because it stays a darker color, with or without being recently watered. I try to water em a lot, and I water far around the plant too, even though I'm sure the roots havent gotten that far yet, but maybe they need more. ill try watering more in the future, unless I hear otherwise

again, any help is appreciated.

thanks

imafan26
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Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:32 am
Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

I take it this new garden is "organic". The plants look very starved which will make them ripe for disease and insect attacks.
How did you build your raised bed and what did you put in it and in what quantity?

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and not a beginner plant. The tomatoes need a complete fertilizer to start with. Fish emulsion or seaweed extract weekly. If you want nutrients to get to the plants faster then a water soluble fertilizer half strength every week for three weeks and the fourth week just plain water. Rain water is best if you have it. You will need to supplement tomatoes weekly in an a new organic garden.

Mel's Mix recipe for raised bed by volume

1/3 peat moss or coco coir ( wash coir before using it can have high salt content)
1/3 blended compost ( at least 5 different sources.)
1/3 vermiculite or perlite

A raised bed is essentially a giant container so you could fill the bed with potting mix. Below is a link for a few potting mix recipes.
https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-gard ... tting-mix/

While each of these recipes provide good structure, water retention and drainage, they do not provide any nutrients. Fertilizer still has to be added. How much really should be based on a soil test. There are pros and cons to synthetic and organic fertilizers. Organic gardens take a while to catch up to the yield of a conventional garden and nutrients may not be available to plants when they need it. Organic nitrogen is hard to get and since organic fertilizers must be mineralized by soil organisms, 1. the organisms must be present in the soil in sufficient quantity. It will not be the case of plants grown in small containers or new gardens comprised mainly of bagged material. 2. Organisms and unfinished compost will compete with plants for nutrients 3. Because the organic numbers are low and not all of the nutrients are readily available, there may not be sufficient nitrogen available to meet the needs of very young growing plants or heavy feeders in a timely manner so they need to be supplemented. 4. Synthetic fertilizers are readily available but you need to be careful since the higher the numbers the less quantity you need to apply. 5. Both synthetic and organic fertilizers can be high in salt. Organic fertilizers require a larger volume since there is much more filler than synthetic although the filler is also organic matter. Organic fertilizers may contain pathogens like salmonella, e coli, and prions depending on the source and how well the product was processed or aged. Nitrogen requirement should be given in installments according to the needs of the plants and not all at once. Synthetic fertilizers do give you options to choose a blended fertilizer or just a single nutrient. Organic fertilizers usually contain other components and are more expensive and less readily available than synthetic.

My garden, by soil test, only requires very little nitrogen and nothing else. I give the nitrogen as a side dressing in 2-3 increments depending on the crop and the days to maturity. Synthetic fertilizers can correct nutrient deficiencies quickly but in a garden I use a hybrid approach. I add organic matter 4 inches every time I renovate the garden. It ends up adding things I don't want like phosphorus, but it does improve tilth. Organic matter sinks over time so it is inherently unstable so you have to keep adding it to maintain the soil biota which needs both carbon and nitrogen for a balanced diet.

I choose to use synthetic fertilizer because I do not like to use animal byproducts which may be carriers of pathogens and I do not want to have to physically move that much volume all the time. Synthetic fertilizer does not harm soil organisms if used properly, but tilling does. Minimizing tilling does help preserve soil organisms and a few earthworms as well.

Other people do want to remain totally organic and they are willing to put in the time and effort to do that. They still get great gardens once their gardens have aged and balanced.

https://www.planetnatural.com/organic-g ... rtilizers/

P.S. I just saw your post. Some mixes are o.k. some are not. You can put a potting mix in a raised bed and plant in that although it will drain and dry very fast. Most potting mixes have some fertilizer.
You do need to follow the directions. Anything that says for in ground and not for containers is essentially compost. It needed to be mixed at a minimum 50/50 with garden soil or top soil and fertilizer added. It does explain why the plants are doing so poorly. Most plants cannot be planted only in compost.

snorasaur
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Joined: Wed May 26, 2021 9:24 am

thanks a lot for the info, I will try and work on these suggestions.

also, can you please recommend a type of topsoil or garden soil that would be good here?
many are "enhanced" or have plant food in them, so it can be a bit overwhelming. I do know I want to get new soil though, because I'm afraid any soil I could dig up will be full of weed seeds.

I plan on using dried grass clippings to mulch it after 2 weeks or so though. this worked well in my last garden.

would u recommend something very plain like this, and just fertilize it
https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Peat-55 ... =8-15&th=1

or something like this, and use less/no fertilizer?
https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-7605 ... 50&sr=8-18

or even something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Minute-Soil-Comp ... Q4KX6?th=1


also I had ordered this fertilizer and it arrives tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GT ... UTF8&psc=1

I also shared pictures of what the new plants look like. I still have yet to plant these.

aside from malnutrition, do they look alright? I would much rather pull out a few tomato plants, then ruin the whole garden because of a viral infection.

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applestar
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Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Hi Welcome to the forum!

Two quick thoughts —

— the plants look weak but not diseased. Be very careful about putting them in full sun right away — they look like they need to be acclimated to hot sun, wind, and rain. They might have been dried out at one time. Yellowing could have been from exposure to being too cold, too. (Such weird up and down weather we are having!)

— If they are planted already, it may be best to provide some shade and wind protection. Watch out for thunder storms that may beat them down. More details of where and how they are planted will suggest ideas for how to provide protection.


ETA — be mindful that you are growing food. Choose products that mention using for food plants.

snorasaur
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Joined: Wed May 26, 2021 9:24 am

just an update, I fertilized the bed today with The Hasta Grow is 6-12-6. For now, I plan on not adding any new soil.


I put 1 oz in about 1 galleon of water, as instructed. but it just says to "water thoroughly". so I used the whole galleon on the 8' X 4' bed, watering around the 9 plants, giving the tomatos the most, because they are largest, and probs need it the most. it says to repeat this every 2 to 3 weeks.


heres what the bottle looks like, to any one wondering.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QVGqyg ... sp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QNYDh8 ... sp=sharing

imafan26
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Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:32 am
Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

Sorry, I could not see the pictures.

Good luck. I hope everything works out o.k.



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