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TexasGardenGirl
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Re: Tomato issues *again*

applestar wrote:I think the first one is a katydid juvenile, though we're only seeing the front end. Did it have "grass hopper" back legs?
No grasshopper type legs. It was small, and I couldn't see its legs. It flew off if I tried to catch it.

ETA: Posted this in the other forum I'm a part of (the bug part, not the tomato part) and someone said the green one is a leaf hopper and the other is a flea beetle like I thought it might be.

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applestar
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OK, if it was tiny, it may have been a leafhopper. Have you noticed what looks like blob of spittle (bunch of tiny bubbles) on plant stems? Usually a bit lower down? This is called "spittle bug" and is a hiding place for leafhopper juvie that can't fly yet. They suck on plant juices.

If you rub off the "spittle" -- slimy, sticky -- and examine, you will find green or yellow soft bodied nymph in there.

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TexasGardenGirl
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applestar wrote:OK, if it was tiny, it may have been a leafhopper. Have you noticed what looks like blob of spittle (bunch of tiny bubbles) on plant stems? Usually a bit lower down? This is called "spittle bug" and is a hiding place for leafhopper juvie that can't fly yet. They suck on plant juices.

If you rub off the "spittle" -- slimy, sticky -- and examine, you will find green or yellow soft bodied nymph in there.
I haven't noticed any but I have been so focused on the foliage. I probably wouldn't have noticed the bugs if I hadn't been pruning.

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I have bacterial spot in peppers but not much on the tomatoes. For one thing I have very disease resistant tomatoes. Unfortunately there are not resistant pepper varieities. Because I plant tomatoes, peppers and eggplant and they are all in the same family, and I do have a small yard, I practice early isolation and cut my losses. I recently pretty much destroyed all my pepper plants and seedlings because of suspected bacterial spot. One plant was not that bad and I cut it back and it grew back fine. Some seedlings had black spot and they had to go out too. I don't try to save plants with suspected bacterial disease. I yank them quick. I waited a couple of months before replanting. I had more seedling problems but they may have been seed borne so I got rid of that batch of seeds. Right now the peppers I have do not have bacterial problems. They do have issues with mites, but it is that time of year and the rain should help that.

About 4 years ago I had a problem with momotaru getting tomato yellow leaf curl virus. I did not plant tomatoes for two years. Momotaro was the only tomato that showed symptoms and the other tomatoes did not, but I pulled all of them anyway. I sterilized the soil in a steam sterilizer and I bleached the containers. I had to wait until the vector generations died out since they carry the disease for life. I planted beans, peas, sugar baby water melon, and cucumbers instead in the pots. I no longer attempt to grow momotaro tomatoes. I know some people just want tomatoes and will keep trying but for me in the long run it worked out better to rotate in time to reduce the chances of repeated failures. I tried Champion and Charger which are TYLCV resistent but they do not taste very good, so I went with using the space for other things that I could use instead. I don't eat a lot of tomatoes and I have other sources to get tomatoes so it is not a big problem for me to do without them for awhile.

If you want to plant certain things you have to keep a step ahead of the problem. If you have a lot of the same plants, disease will spread like wildfire so for me, I just cut my losses if picking off the infected leaves does not work and it looks like it is not under control, I cut my losses and get rid of the plant or plants to prevent it from spreading. Bacterial diseases do not have as long a waiting time as vector transmitted diseases or spore diseases like downy mildew. If you are able to get rid of the plants before they spread and get rid of the debris and sanitize, you should be able to plant again provided you can find clean seeds.
I still would not try to plant in exactly the same spot for a while. If your plants did not do well there anyway, a different location may actually be better. Tomatoes can and do grow wild anywhere in my yard so I have a lot of good spots. Most of the wild tomatoes are coming from the birds eating my tomatoes and dropping the seeds all over the place. The wild ones actually take the least amount of care and are usually good tasting because the birds only go after the best fruit.

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Lindsaylew82
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The reason I tend to lean toward septoria, is because she has had so much rain. Fungal issues develop here after a good 2-3 days of rain and cloudy cover, and she has had a week's worth.

After reading up more, and looking at dozens of pictures, the two look (and live and spread) very similarly.

I keep seeing one key factor in bacterial spot. That is: if the bacteria is seed borne, the smaller seedlings show obvious sign of BS. Not so with septoria, although, it's a little early here to be seeing signs yet. Did your seedling/transplant look like that when you got them?

If you're suggesting pulling plants, that means nothing tomato can be grown there for some time.... From what I've read on BS, it can stay in the soil for up to 3 years. I say if nothing can be grown there next year, and the next, and the next anyway, why not let the plants grow, and see what happens this year. I think if things dry out, and it is something fungal, you may start seeing results. Not so if pull a plant based on something that isn't proven.
(I would still grow plants next year though, if it were me... If I can't grow tomatoes, I don't care to grow... :() )

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TexasGardenGirl
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Lindsaylew82 wrote:The reason I tend to lean toward septoria, is because she has had so much rain. Fungal issues develop here after a good 2-3 days of rain and cloudy cover, and she has had a week's worth.

After reading up more, and looking at dozens of pictures, the two look (and live and spread) very similarly.

I keep seeing one key factor in bacterial spot. That is: if the bacteria is seed borne, the smaller seedlings show obvious sign of BS. Not so with septoria, although, it's a little early here to be seeing signs yet. Did your seedling/transplant look like that when you got them?

If you're suggesting pulling plants, that means nothing tomato can be grown there for some time.... From what I've read on BS, it can stay in the soil for up to 3 years. I say if nothing can be grown there next year, and the next, and the next anyway, why not let the plants grow, and see what happens this year. I think if things dry out, and it is something fungal, you may start seeing results. Not so if pull a plant based on something that isn't proven.
(I would still grow plants next year though, if it were me... If I can't grow tomatoes, I don't care to grow... :() )
It definitely didn't look all spotty when I got it. And it started with one before others were hit. Bit I DID find an aphid on the plant. Where there's one, there's bound to be more. I had someone tell me it looked like aphid damage. Either way, I don't want the damaged leaves there because they'll just die anyway. So I cut it back, and we'll let new growth decide if black prince will stay. But I won't expect much of a yield from it at all.

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Lindsaylew82
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Mine are literally COVERED in aphids right now! Here's a pic of them on one of my plants:

Image

Nothing looking like yours..... Yet!

One aphid isn't too much to worry over.

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Lindsaylew82 wrote:Mine are literally COVERED in aphids right now! Here's a pic of them on one of my plants:

Image

Nothing looking like yours..... Yet!

One aphid isn't too much to worry over.
Yikes! The one I aw was a green aphid. Bit the guy on my other forum said what most likely happened was aphids snacked on the leaves and then the week of rain caused a fungus to set in at the spots of damage. Which makes sense to me. So I'll treat with the neem oil and some soap and hope no more/minimal damage happens. But all the rain seems to be drowning my pepper plants in too much water. Not a lot I can do about that. The soil can only drain so fast. And it's sandier than I'd like so it drains almost too well most days. I was only watering my peppers when it looked like they were close to wilting. But it looks like my starts that I started too late (but was going to grow in containers) may be my main peppers.

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Lindsaylew82
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Hopefully it will dry out soon. It's early, yet!

Prolly wouldn't hurt to add a 1/4 cup of milk to the neem (assuming you mix it in a sprayer with a gallon of water.) oil. Also helps with fungus! Aerated compost tea helps as well.

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TexasGardenGirl
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Lindsaylew82 wrote:Hopefully it will dry out soon. It's early, yet!

Prolly wouldn't hurt to add a 1/4 cup of milk to the neem (assuming you mix it in a sprayer with a gallon of water.) oil. Also helps with fungus! Aerated compost tea helps as well.
I totally forgot about milk! A 1:1 milk/water solution added to zucchini also makes them grow HUGE. I'll have to go spray everything. But it's pretty pointless if the rain is gonna wash it away. So hopefully there will be some sunshine soon.

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That is a lot of aphids. I haven't seen many aphids in any of my gardens for years except for one sickly kale. My garden patrol takes care of them.

If you want to try to save the plants all you can do is keep picking off the leaves and practicing good sanitation. The rain will make that very hard and you will have to retreat every 3 days or so. Neem is not a very good fungicide after the fact.

To clarify a point. Bacterial diseases don't always show up on the seedlings. The environmental conditions like humid wet conditions is what makes the disease express itself.

I rotate in time. I can wait a couple of years for disease pressure to drop. Other things can be planted instead, they just have to be resistant. The point in rotation is to deny the bacteria ior fungal spores a food source. Most pathogens are host dependent and different species grow on different plants so bacteria that attack cabbages are not the same ones that attack tomatoes. However, within the same family, the diseases may still be transmittable. Sanitation is usually the best way to do that. Mine are grown in pots so I can sanitize the pots and the soil. I can usually replant after a couple of months. But I don't plant in the exact same spot.

When it rains a lot and I have not done some premptive spraying, I usually start over since I have been down this road before and in my warm humid climate the faster I get rid of the diseased plants the sooner I can plant again.

However, if you want to keep trying and you think it may be something you can keep ahead of, then try it.

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imafan26 wrote:That is a lot of aphids. I haven't seen many aphids in any of my gardens for years except for one sickly kale. My garden patrol takes care of them.

If you want to try to save the plants all you can do is keep picking off the leaves and practicing good sanitation. The rain will make that very hard and you will have to retreat every 3 days or so. Neem is not a very good fungicide after the fact.

To clarify a point. Bacterial diseases don't always show up on the seedlings. The environmental conditions like humid wet conditions is what makes the disease express itself.

I rotate in time. I can wait a couple of years for disease pressure to drop. Other things can be planted instead, they just have to be resistant. The point in rotation is to deny the bacteria ior fungal spores a food source. Most pathogens are host dependent and different species grow on different plants so bacteria that attack cabbages are not the same ones that attack tomatoes. However, within the same family, the diseases may still be transmittable. Sanitation is usually the best way to do that. Mine are grown in pots so I can sanitize the pots and the soil. I can usually replant after a couple of months. But I don't plant in the exact same spot.

When it rains a lot and I have not done some premptive spraying, I usually start over since I have been down this road before and in my warm humid climate the faster I get rid of the diseased plants the sooner I can plant again.

However, if you want to keep trying and you think it may be something you can keep ahead of, then try it.
I went out today and the plants look good. The black prince looks sad with so little foliage but it looks like it'll recover. I'll fertilize in a week or week and a half with water soluble fertilizer and hopefully that'll help. One of the unaffected branches actually has flowers on it. Here's hoping I can keep bugs and such from the fruits. Since tomorrow is payday I'll go get myself a good insecticidal soap and I'll use the neem oil to ward off any new fungus.

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That is a lot of aphids. I haven't seen many aphids in any of my gardens for years except for one sickly kale. My garden patrol takes care of them.
Yes ma'am it is! And I'm on the verge of freaking out, but then I see some things going on. There is some type of maggot or larvae they're yellowish, unless they're attached to a potato aphid, then they turn that pinkish/red color. It's about 1/4 of the size of the aphids, and it's making them into aphid raisins. I took that picture last week some time, and it looks very different now. There are still a lot of potato and peach aphids, but there are more mummies, and today I'm seeing a LOT of aphid raisins. I keep trying to take pictures , but they are sooooo teeny tiny!

I'm also seeing growing numbers of lady bugs, and LOTS of ladybug egg clusters!

It's managing itself! Slowly but surely!

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I need to attract some beneficial insects to my yard. Definitely gonna need them. Looks like I'll need to hit the garden center again for more flowers that attract stuff like ladybugs.

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Honestly, I kind of think that the infestation is what is drawing them!

I'm so psyched about the Aphid Midge!!! They're literally all over the place! I think the tides have turned!

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It also helps if you control the ants.

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No ants present, but I agree!

This is the same plant tonight!

Image

There are several live aphids still present, but the number of aphid "raisins" far outweighs the number of live! And their days are numbered! This happened nearly overnight! I'm not exaggerating!

Having said all that, I can't see where there's any damage to the plants, even with large "infestation".


Texas, if I may make a variety suggestion, I would have you try Cherokee Purple. It does really well here in my garden! Tasty, too!

My cilantro is bolting as we speak! As are some radishes. There's lots of clover, and some little weed with tiny light purple flowers all over it (I should ID it....) that they seem to really like! Bolting herbs are great attractors of beneficials!

(ETA: whoops! Forgot the picture!)
Last edited by Lindsaylew82 on Tue May 31, 2016 5:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Yes now that a lot of flowers are blooming and it is warmer the predators have stepped things up. It is always good to have nectar and pollen plants blooming continuously.

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I was out checking on the tomatoes as I do every night and I saw a ladybug on the black prince! It looked pretty happy. And it was still out there this morning! Then my dog scared it away. But, it being there, on that specific plant, feels like a good sign to me.

Lindsay, I wanted so badly to try Cherokee purple but I learned of it so late that I couldn't start from seed and I couldn't find it as a start anywhere. I'm going to be ordering lots of seeds to store and try out next season. I'm 100% already planning to get Cherokee purple. Since my great grandmother was 100% Cherokee it kinda called out to me. Random reason but hey, a little superstition doesn't hurt!

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If you're interested PM me, and I can send you a link for mail order from the local greenhouse we use. The selection and quality are seriously amazing.

ETA:

It's not too late to put new plants in the ground right now!

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TexasGardenGirl
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Lindsaylew82 wrote:If you're interested PM me, and I can send you a link for mail order from the local greenhouse we use. The selection and quality are seriously amazing.

ETA:

It's not too late to put new plants in the ground right now!
Thank goodness it isn't too late for planting new starts because the rain we've had destroyed my jalapeño and sweet bell pepper plants. Here's hoping the rain stays away for a bit.

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On the suggestion of Lindsay, I'm gonna put a couple of mini eggplant in with my tomatoes as a trap crop for the flea beetles. Something about them liking eggplant better than anything else. Here's hoping that works.

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An update: the black prince that was cut back majorly looks like I never pruned it! It's full, gorgeous, and almost double in size! And, I've got a tomato growing like crazy on it! Won't be long before it reaches full size and starts ripening! Since I planted the eggplant and the marigolds, I've seen zero flea beetle activity. I'm guessing the marigolds did it. But, it shouldn't be long before I'm picking tomatoes faster than I can use them!

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(It was the eggplant! ;) )

I'm glad things are looking up for you!!!

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Lindsaylew82 wrote:(It was the eggplant! ;) )

I'm glad things are looking up for you!!!
Haha may have been the eggplant after all! That's okay, though. Anything to protect the tomatoes. I want homemade sauce! But I was out checking moisture levels of the soil and watering yesterday and noticed a frikken hornworms on one of my plants. Pulled that sucker off right away. Didnt see another but went out scouting a few minutes ago and there was another. I was shocked at how big they actually are. Seeing photos I thought they were magnified....didn't realize how BIG those things actually were! And easy to miss. So I'll be out there a couple times a day scouting for others. But for the most part the garden is finally flourishing!

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Do you have flowers in, around, near your garden?

There is a tiny, stingless wasp, called a braconid, that parasitizes hornworms and other garden pests. The wasp lays her eggs inside the caterpillar and they eat their way out. The adult wasp lives on nectar and pollen and needs flowers that have their nectar in tiny florets. These include sweet alyssum, chamomile, feverfew, catnip and buckwheat. When allowed to produce flowers, dill, fennel and other members of the carrot family also attract braconid wasps.

Image

If you see a hornworm looking like this, leave it alone. Those are the braconid larvae when they have emerged and pupated. That hornworm is dying or dead. If the white cocoons have holes at the top, the adult wasp has already emerged to carry on the good work.

In my garden before I moved, I hardly ever saw a hornworm that had not been parasitized already. The braconids are a very effective part of the Garden Patrol, even though I have never actually seen one.to know I was seeing it. Depending on the species they are a tenth of an inch to less than half an inch long.

this is magnified:
Image

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TexasGardenGirl
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rainbowgardener wrote:Do you have flowers in, around, near your garden?

There is a tiny, stingless wasp, called a braconid, that parasitizes hornworms and other garden pests. The wasp lays her eggs inside the caterpillar and they eat their way out. The adult wasp lives on nectar and pollen and needs flowers that have their nectar in tiny florets. These include sweet alyssum, chamomile, feverfew, catnip and buckwheat. When allowed to produce flowers, dill, fennel and other members of the carrot family also attract braconid wasps.

Image

If you see a hornworm looking like this, leave it alone. Those are the braconid larvae when they have emerged and pupated. That hornworm is dying or dead. If the white cocoons have holes at the top, the adult wasp has already emerged to carry on the good work.

In my garden before I moved, I hardly ever saw a hornworm that had not been parasitized already. The braconids are a very effective part of the Garden Patrol, even though I have never actually seen one.to know I was seeing it. Depending on the species they are a tenth of an inch to less than half an inch long.

this is magnified:
Image
Before I pulled the hornworm off my tomato plant, I checked for signs of the wasp eggs and saw none. So I took it off. I do have chamomile in one of the beds but it's not flowering at all. It's not wilting, it's nice and green, etc. but it just hasn't flowered. *shrug* But the hornworms aren't an issue to pull off. Easier to get rid of than the darn flea beetles and easier than having to constantly watch my darn dog to keep her from eating my zucchini leaves/blooms. I am ordering some BT tomorrow since it's payday. Gotta keep those pesky caterpillars away!



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