Unless you are growing a special dwarf variety, your tomatoes aren't getting something they need. 5 feet is very average for tomato plants. Mine are about 6 feet now and that's after I trimmed them back some to keep them from getting too huge. Some people write in here about getting a ladder to harvest their tomatoes.farmall man wrote:HI:All I have a person who lives a few miles from me but haven't had a chance to talk with him, but he grows tomatoes every year and has a very sturdy fence he grows them on, his tomatoes are as tall as sweetcorn about 5 ft. now and he gets loads of fruit every year.
Is there a special variety that gets that tall ?
mine never get much taller than 3 ft. what's your views on this?
High 30's should not kill them IF they have been well hardened off and are used to chilly. It will slow them down.Daffodil3263 wrote:I planted my tomatoes today and found out it will be getting in the high 30's next week will that hurt my plants? I did cover them will leaf litter hoping it would keep out weeds and keep water in.
Wow. I'm pretty new to tomato growing, so I've been reading everything I can find. I have to say that is the first time I have come across that information! Glad I found out before starting mine this year. This thread seems to be the thread that keeps on giving (2015 and some of us still learning from it). Thanks for the heads up on that, as I am planning on doing a combination of both det and ind this year.TZ -OH6 wrote:Determinants bloom off of the tips of the stems while indeterminants keep on growing past the bloom truss, so if you pinch off a sucker on a determinant plant you will decrease your yield significantly. As an example, you could have five fruit trusses on one indeterminant stem during the season, but for a determinant you would need five branches/stems/suckers to produce that much fruit.
bird dog wrote:here's a little something that works for me. For a couple early producing plants I start them from seed the first week of February, this year I tried Early Pick as I find Early Girl tasteless,. In mid March I prepare my bed with compost and bonemeal then I plant just as I would later in the season. After planting mulch around the plant with black plastic to warm the soil. Now I take a couple 3' cages made out of concrete reinforcing wire and wrap them with clear plastic leaving enough on top to open and close depending on the weather. I seal the seam up the sides with duct tape and they are ready. Keep a close eye on your plants while waiting for safe weather to remove the plastic as air flow ( or lack off ) can cause problems. The last average frost in my area is late April and I have seen it as late as mid May but this will protect your plants. This I picked my first fruit on June 21 and most plants in this area have yet to begin because of a cool wet spring in the NW.
TZ -OH6 wrote:Determinants bloom off of the tips of the stems while indeterminants keep on growing past the bloom truss, so if you pinch off a sucker on a determinant plant you will decrease your yield significantly. As an example, you could have five fruit trusses on one indeterminant stem during the season, but for a determinant you would need five branches/stems/suckers to produce that much fruit.