User avatar
rainbowgardener
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 25303
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:04 pm
Location: TN/GA 7b

Probably so. Tomato seeds should germinate in a few days to a week. I don't bury seeds at all, just lightly press on them to be sure they are in contact with the soil and then drop a thin layer of potting soil loosely on top of them. Did you give them any heat? A bit of bottom heat really aids germination. Tomatoes like soil temps 70 -75 degrees F for germination. The risk with not providing the heat is that while they are sitting around in cool moist soil not germinating, the seeds can rot. Then never let the soil dry out (while the seeds are germinating) but don't let it get wet or soggy either (water should never ooze out if you press on it!).

Brant
Full Member
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:40 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

seeds

thanks rainbow! I replanted them couple days ago, barely covering them with dirt, and the majority of them are up now! finally! It's so late in the season here. Oh well, at least they're early girls. :lol:
Brant from Phoenix

ohgardener
Newly Registered
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Jun 05, 2010 12:08 pm
Location: Cincinnati, OH

Is there a difference in pinching off suckers of determinate vs. indeterminate varieties? I read some where (can't recall off the top of my head) that you didn't suckers determinates (like Roma's) because it decreases yield.

TZ -OH6
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 2097
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:27 pm
Location: Mid Ohio

Determinants bloom off of the tips of the stems while indeterminants keep on growing past the bloom truss, so if you pinch off a sucker on a determinant plant you will decrease your yield significantly. As an example, you could have five fruit trusses on one indeterminant stem during the season, but for a determinant you would need five branches/stems/suckers to produce that much fruit.

bird dog
Full Member
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:42 pm
Location: Ukiah, Ca.

here's a little something that works for me. For a couple early producing plants I start them from seed the first week of February, this year I tried Early Pick as I find Early Girl tasteless,. In mid March I prepare my bed with compost and bonemeal then I plant just as I would later in the season. After planting mulch around the plant with black plastic to warm the soil. Now I take a couple 3' cages made out of concrete reinforcing wire and wrap them with clear plastic leaving enough on top to open and close depending on the weather. I seal the seam up the sides with duct tape and they are ready. Keep a close eye on your plants while waiting for safe weather to remove the plastic as air flow ( or lack off ) can cause problems. The last average frost in my area is late April and I have seen it as late as mid May but this will protect your plants. This I picked my first fruit on June 21 and most plants in this area have yet to begin because of a cool wet spring in the NW.

farmall man
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2011 12:01 pm
Location: northern michigan

HI:All I have a person who lives a few miles from me but haven't had a chance to talk with him, but he grows tomatoes every year and has a very sturdy fence he grows them on, his tomatoes are as tall as sweetcorn about 5 ft. now and he gets loads of fruit every year.
Is there a special variety that gets that tall ?
mine never get much taller than 3 ft. what's your views on this?
thanks
Louie
zoom zoom

User avatar
rainbowgardener
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 25303
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:04 pm
Location: TN/GA 7b

farmall man wrote:HI:All I have a person who lives a few miles from me but haven't had a chance to talk with him, but he grows tomatoes every year and has a very sturdy fence he grows them on, his tomatoes are as tall as sweetcorn about 5 ft. now and he gets loads of fruit every year.
Is there a special variety that gets that tall ?
mine never get much taller than 3 ft. what's your views on this?
thanks
Louie
Unless you are growing a special dwarf variety, your tomatoes aren't getting something they need. 5 feet is very average for tomato plants. Mine are about 6 feet now and that's after I trimmed them back some to keep them from getting too huge. Some people write in here about getting a ladder to harvest their tomatoes.
Twitter account I manage for local Sierra Club: https://twitter.com/CherokeeGroupSC Facebook page I manage for them: https://www.facebook.com/groups/65310596576/ Come and find me and lots of great information, inspiration

FruitAddict
Cool Member
Posts: 98
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 3:03 am
Location: Oshkosh Wisconsin

I was curious if anyone has advice on how to propogate Tomato plants by clippings - I have one seedling of a variety I really wanted more of and no more seed. Is there already a thread concerning this? If yes I missed it. can you share the link with me?
I couldn't survive without the pleasure my garden brings to me.

Daffodil3263
Full Member
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2013 8:06 pm

Re: GROWING TOMATOES - ALL ABOUT TOMATO PLANTS

I planted my tomatoes today and found out it will be getting in the high 30's nect week will that hurt my plants? I did cover them will leaf litter hoping it would keep out weeds and keep water in.

User avatar
rainbowgardener
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 25303
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:04 pm
Location: TN/GA 7b

Re: GROWING TOMATOES - ALL ABOUT TOMATO PLANTS

Daffodil3263 wrote:I planted my tomatoes today and found out it will be getting in the high 30's next week will that hurt my plants? I did cover them will leaf litter hoping it would keep out weeds and keep water in.
High 30's should not kill them IF they have been well hardened off and are used to chilly. It will slow them down.

Ordinarily we cover the soil with leaf litter and other mulches, to suppress weeds and conserve moisture, not the plants. You want to keep your mulch away from your plant stems, because it can promote rotting and provide an easy bridge to your plants for insects.

Covering your tomato plants in cold weather like you mentioned is a good thing, but it would be better to cover them with glass or plastic - milk jugs or soda bottles with the bottoms cut off work fine, or whatever you have around.
Twitter account I manage for local Sierra Club: https://twitter.com/CherokeeGroupSC Facebook page I manage for them: https://www.facebook.com/groups/65310596576/ Come and find me and lots of great information, inspiration

User avatar
webmaster
Site Admin
Posts: 9148
Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 5:59 pm
Location: Amherst, MA USDA Zone 5a

Re: HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - A TO Z LIST OF GROWING TOMATOES

I noticed that many new members were using this thread to post brand new discussions, and not receiving answers. If you have a question, then please start a NEW discussion. Please give it a DESCRIPTIVE title so that those browsing the forum will see it and answer it.

Unfortunately for the new members who posted questions here, they got buried in this gigantic thread and did not receive a timely answer. So to prevent that from happening, I am encouraging all new members to post your questions in a NEW thread.

Thanks!
:)

michelle83
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 6:22 am

Re: HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - Tutorial

This is really helpful. I will try to apply this when I start growing tomatoes. Thank You very much!

Meme
Cool Member
Posts: 67
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2014 7:37 pm

Re: HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - Tutorial

Thank you opabinia51. This is so interesting to learn how to save the seeds. I will certainly be doing that, and learn from all else that has been written.
~ A Smile Speaks a Thousand Words ~

User avatar
jal_ut
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 7480
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:20 am
Location: Northern Utah Zone 5

Re: HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - Tutorial

More fussing than I want. Here is my recipe for tomatoes. Go buy a flat of started plants from the nursery. Plant them in the garden, a little deeper than they were in the pots, and water them. Stand back. Keep the weeds out and water once a week. Let them sprawl as they will. No pruning nor pinching. Enjoy the bushels of fruit!
Gardening at 5000 feet elevation, zone 4/5 Northern Utah, Frost free from May 25 to September 8 +/-

Peppery1
Full Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:13 pm

Re:

TZ -OH6 wrote:Determinants bloom off of the tips of the stems while indeterminants keep on growing past the bloom truss, so if you pinch off a sucker on a determinant plant you will decrease your yield significantly. As an example, you could have five fruit trusses on one indeterminant stem during the season, but for a determinant you would need five branches/stems/suckers to produce that much fruit.
Wow. I'm pretty new to tomato growing, so I've been reading everything I can find. I have to say that is the first time I have come across that information! Glad I found out before starting mine this year. This thread seems to be the thread that keeps on giving (2015 and some of us still learning from it). Thanks for the heads up on that, as I am planning on doing a combination of both det and ind this year. :)

Peppery1
Full Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:13 pm

Re:

bird dog wrote:here's a little something that works for me. For a couple early producing plants I start them from seed the first week of February, this year I tried Early Pick as I find Early Girl tasteless,. In mid March I prepare my bed with compost and bonemeal then I plant just as I would later in the season. After planting mulch around the plant with black plastic to warm the soil. Now I take a couple 3' cages made out of concrete reinforcing wire and wrap them with clear plastic leaving enough on top to open and close depending on the weather. I seal the seam up the sides with duct tape and they are ready. Keep a close eye on your plants while waiting for safe weather to remove the plastic as air flow ( or lack off ) can cause problems. The last average frost in my area is late April and I have seen it as late as mid May but this will protect your plants. This I picked my first fruit on June 21 and most plants in this area have yet to begin because of a cool wet spring in the NW.

Hmm. Have had trouble starting toms because we always seem to get one or two cold snaps just when you think it is going to be fine. I may try that next year--or even this year if I decide to do some outside 'maters. Bet I could rig this for a few containers...

JeffNev
Newly Registered
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:36 am

Re: HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - Tutorial

This is really, really helpful, a great post!

Thanks

Jeff

BajaMitch
Newly Registered
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Feb 09, 2016 10:03 pm

Re:

TZ -OH6 wrote:Determinants bloom off of the tips of the stems while indeterminants keep on growing past the bloom truss, so if you pinch off a sucker on a determinant plant you will decrease your yield significantly. As an example, you could have five fruit trusses on one indeterminant stem during the season, but for a determinant you would need five branches/stems/suckers to produce that much fruit.

Just looked at my Better Bush determinates and what I see doesn't agree with the above quote. Many of the stems that have trusses and tomatoes have additional trusses on the same stem. I have two Better Bush plants and both individual plants have stems with multiple trusses.

imafan26
Mod
Posts: 11275
Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:32 pm
Location: hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

Re: HOW TO GROW TOMATOES - Tutorial

What's the difference between "indeterminate" and "determinate" tomatoes?
Determinate tomatoes, or "bush" tomatoes, are varieties that grow to a compact height (generally 3 - 4'). Determinates stop growing when fruit sets on the top bud. All the tomatoes from the plant ripen at approximately the same time (usually over period of 1- 2 weeks). They require a limited amount of staking for support and are perfectly suited for container planting.
Indeterminate tomatoes will grow and produce fruit until killed by frost. They can reach heights of up to 12 feet although 6 feet is normal. Indeterminates will bloom, set new fruit and ripen fruit all at the same time throughout the season. They require substantial staking for support.

Determinates stop growing when the terminal buds set fruit, and all the fruit more or less ripens at the same time. I noticed that a lot of the determinates I have grown besides being shorter tend to have stockier main stems. After the top sets fruit, no new flowers come out.

Indeterminate tomatoes can be up to 12 ft if left unpruned. Fruit ripen more sporadically and continue to set more fruit.

There are also semi determinates which are shorter than indeterminates, and produce a main crop more or less all at once, but can continue to produce additional smaller sets until frost.
Happy gardening in Hawaii. Gardens are where people grow.

Return to “TOMATO FORUM”