I broke my tomato plant branch and I need help to fix it!

[Dyllon Proulx]

I was transplanting my tomato into a bigger pot and I was putting the tomato cage on it and I accidentally broke one of my branches I need help to fix it.

[applestar]

I just posted in detail in an other thread, but first, this being tomato -- tell a little more about how early in the season where you are -- you were transplanting it and caging it -- so if early, is the branch worth saving ? (because this is not a clean break). Also, by "branch" do you mean leaf or actual side stem? Where on the plant?

Subject: Bent stem

I think the wound is gapping because you haven't really securely stabilized it. The weakened stem is being weighed down from the plants own weight.

If you have grafting tape like parafilm-M tape, use that, but you can use regular scotch tape. First wrap tightly around the bamboo, then just below the wound - snug. Then do another one just above. You have to splint it. Then take a small piece of clear food wrap and wrap around the wounded stem -- only one or two layers. You want to let it breathe. Eventually, bark like callous will form along the edge of the wound. You can take the food wrap off once the wound is closed and you will need to make sure that the tape above and below are not getting too tight and strangling the stem. (Using parafilm-M, you can tape and protect the wound at the same time, and the plant can grow -- it's great stuff) A month or so should be enough, then the tape can be removed, but you may want to continue to support with a more snug-but-loosely attached splint -- I would use the spongy rubber coated wire or Velcro tape used for supporting tomatoes.

I might spritz the stem with rubbing alcohol before wrapping if fungal issues is any concern.

Now, start adding sandy potting mix up the stem about 1/2 inch or so at a time, may be twice a week when you water. Peppers can be buried but they don't readily grow roots along the stem like tomatoes, and they are more prone to soggy stem so it's better to do this gradually. If you don't stress it, peppers will grow roots up the stem. It helps to keep the toot zone warm as peppers are notoriously slow to grow roots in cold soilmix.

If you follow that link, I also posted about how I saved a tomato plant that was crushed when one end of the overhead shoplight fell on it.

[applestar]

Found another one I repaired --

Subject: Repairing inadequately supported stem that bent over

I was appalled to see that Casey's Pure Yellow was bent over in the middle this morning, especially since I was thinking I needed to provide better support for it YESTERDAY but didn't get around to it. But I knew what to do since I had to repair a fruiting plant that the shop light fell on during the winter


I pounded a tall bamboo stake next to it:



Then temporarily supported it with some string:


Close up of the "kink":


A piece of breathable Parafilm "M":


Securely wrap to a splint:


...I might go out and secure the top and bottom part of that stem even better -- I want to keep the stem immobile as much as possible until the plant heals.

[Dyllon Proulx]

Am I able to get it to heal if I wrap this cloth around it and if it doesn't heal do I cut of the branch and put it in water so it can sprout roots?

[applestar]

I need to see the whole plant or base of the plant up to the break as well as more of the entire branch. The cloth is not strictly necessary.

You could definitely cut off and root, but you could also leave it on and air-layer (Grow roots on the stem while still attached to the mother plant) by wrapping with a plastic food wrap or produce bag, layered/filled with moistened sphagnum moss and tying top and bottom to the stem with rubber band.

[Dyllon Proulx]

Under the tomato, and a bit to the right the little line is where it broke.

[applestar]

OK. Based on the photo it looks to me like the branch in question is a sucker shoot BELOW the first fruit truss.

It's often recommended that all side shoots below the first fruit truss as well as all leaves below the first fruit truss should be removed/pinched/pruned off. The side shoots will divert energy and delay development of those first fruits. Leaves and branches low down along the stems are susceptible to soilborne fungi and bacteria that may splash up due to rain and irrigation. And once they are on the plant, they can further spread and infect upwards.

It's also a good idea to mulch the soil/potting mix surface -- yes, even container tomatoes.

So I would recommend cutting this off -- make a clean cut flush with the stem, and then if you want to try rooting and growing a clone/second plant, you can either root in water or in potting mix. But it's perfectly OK to discard this branch as well. Don't try to save it if you see any sign of disease -- spots, etc.

[Dyllon Proulx]

Thank you

[Dyllon Proulx]

So do I cut off all the branches on the bottom of the stem?

[Mr green]

Easiest way to root a tomato cutting is just remove the lowest leaves and stick the branch down into moist soil. Its hard to fail, you might wanna keep it out from full sun untill it started growing tho (mostly so doesnt dry out, if you tend it all time its not even needed).

[imafan26]

Removing the lowest leaves and suckers helps keep fungal disease at bay for a while. When you remove suckers, you will lose fruit, but the fruit you get will be bigger and the improved air circulation will keep the whole plant healthier a little longer.