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jemsister
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Help supporting my specific tomato setup

I have a problem with my tomato staking method. I was going to just tie the tomato to a stake and call it good, but I recently learned that I bought an indeterminate tomato (yay for being a novice! It's a sun gold cherry). I should perhaps begin by pointing out that I live in northwestern Washington, so I don't really know if that will effect the tom's size.

Anyway, my issue is this:

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The red arrows represent the direction in which I planted the roots, because it is not a deep bed (only about 1.5 ft.). This is the reason I planted it sideways and didn't really put anything else in there. I may or may not buy a slicer tomato and plant it to the left of the Sun Gold, but I haven't decided. The yellow line represents where my stake is set (not shown in this older picture). The stake that is indicated by the green line is no longer there (that's the one I moved to the yellow location). The blue arrow is pointing to where I have another stake set in the corner of the tote. I also have a stake set in the corner of the opposite tote.

The bed is on the patio (this is a rental, so it had to be the patio and not the grass), so there's no chance of the stakes going any deeper than 1.5 ft.

Originally, my plan was to tie the tomato to the stake and call it good, but then someone told me that sun golds get huge and too heavy for one stake. I was considering trying the method where you run strings between two stakes, and weave the tom up the strings, but because the stakes are not set very deeply, I was concerned that it wouldn't make much difference in terms of better support.

All I have is five foot stakes, and I can't afford to go out and get other materials (we're on a super duper low budget here, and I already spent all my garden budget on soil, liners, seeds, plants, etc.) So now I'm not sure what to do. I was considering making a stake cage of sorts, but because of where the roots are, I'm worried that I will damage the roots by poking stakes down at that end. D=

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hendi_alex
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Pre drill each five foot support and then use screws to mount the slats to the outside of the box. Each vertical slat would need two screws placed in the upper and lower portion of the side board. You could use either a three post system or four post system. Finally place a string weave or other pattern between the vertical supports.

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jemsister
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Wow, that is a great idea--I never would have thought of that! I wonder if I could get my FIL to help me with it. I don't have any power tools. Would it work to just use long nails? I do have a hammer, and I might be able to scrounge up a few big nails... (I know jack squat about how to do that sort of thing, can you tell? LOL!)

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jemsister
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Or what about wood glue? Would that work?

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hendi_alex
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You will want to be able to remove the slats easily later. Maybe ask around and borrow a drill with screw driver bit. You may be able to get by without pre drilling the holes in the slats, but the slats could split without being drilled first. Anyone who has a drill will also have drill bits. Get screws that are long enough to just go through both thicknesses of wood.

If you decide to hard prune the plant to a central leader method, then you could get by with just pushing the stake into the soil beside the stem. Then prune off any side shoots, only keeping the central stem. That method of pruning may work better in your limited box size and with your damp climate as well. If pruning to a central stem, you can plant a tomato per square foot of bed space. Each plant will give less fruit when pruned that way, but the amount of fruit per square foot of bed space will be higher than when allowing a plant to form a full bush.

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jemsister
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So what you're saying is that if I prune, the plant would be light enough to just stake? I was planning to sucker the plant anyway because of the climate, so if that would work, it would be fantastic. I was considering adding a stake opposite the one I have now (on the non-root side) for added support.

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hendi_alex
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Here is an indeterminate plant that is pruned to a central leader. It has been hot here and the plant dried out too much a time or two, as it is in a small container. The plant is suffering a bit from that neglect, but it should give the idea. It was pruned to a single stem with all sucker growth removed. I am actually letting one new stem develop, and after the tomatoes above get ripe, I'll cut the old central stem out and then will allow the secondary stem to take over, hopefully getting two crops from this one plant.

Double click the image and your view will be a bit larger.

Image

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jemsister
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Okay! I think I'll try it and hope for the best. Thanks for all the help! =D

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applestar
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A couple more ideas -- pipe brackets
... the pipe brackets led to another thought ... Get a length of PVC (or the other drinking water safe kind) that you can pretty tightly arch and wedge in the frame, then use the pipe brackets to secure. You could use that to stabilize the stake by screwing the stake onto the top of the arch so you can support it higher up.

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jemsister
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I love that idea, Applestar! I wish I had the cash to do it. I think it would be cool to turn that bed into a mini hoop house, and it would be really easy to do using that method. Maybe next year...

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jemsister
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Well, here's my plan, I guess. I'm using two stakes for the tomato plant. If the plant becomes too weighty for the stakes I have there, I' hoping it will be enough to string them up to the nearest canopy stake for added support (in effect pulling the stakes out in the opposite direction of where the tomato is growing. Make sense? Think it will work?

The canopy is junk. It's really more of a makeshift temp thing until I can erect something more useful. But the tom was getting to be too big for the cloche I had it in, so I removed it. I went ahead and made a white wall next to the tom for added warmth, since it doesn't get real warm here--upper 80s tops, mostly just 70s.

Image

Closeup view of the tomato, showing how it's tied on the far side of the stake (not very clear in the other pic).

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