I will include a poll for this as I don't know how many people will need written responses. All opinions and thoughts are more than welcome!
I have a brand new 150' roll of 5' concrete reinforcement wire/fence. There are 3 reasonable ways I have thought of to set up the fence in order to find some kind of balance between maximizing the amount of plants and minimizing labor with maintenance. Heck I will even try to do a keyboard illustration for each. ------- will represent fence and x x x x will represent tomatoes
A:
-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-
This option is using the fence in one long 150' row and planting the plants directly under it. This method would maximize the amount of plants, but also require the most maintenance as far as weaving plants.
B.
---------------------------------
x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x
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This option is to cut the fence in (2) 75' long sections and put them up parallel a set distance apart. Plant the tomatoes in between the two fences. This cuts my amount of plants in half, but also lowers maintenance quite a bit.
C.
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x x x x x x x x x x x
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x x x x x x x x x x x
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This option will be 3 equal 50' sections of fence places parallel to each other. The middle section would support both rows of plants, and the plants would surely grow into one another a bit. But harvesting still would be quite simple. This way would give me 100 linear feet of plants.
So first of all, you have to give me credit on my awesome illustration work haha!!! But really, I would like everyone's opinion on which method they would choose and why.
A couple other things to keep in mind is that I have enough space, so don't factor that in to your decision. The other thing is that although amount of plants I can get isn't the #1 thing, it is important. I will be planting at least 100 plants. But whatever doesn't fit in this setup will go in cages, which I will have enough of no matter what option I go with.
Thanks everyone!
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gixxerific
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I somewhat read you post and here is what I come up with.
First off CWR (Concrete Reinforcing Wire) in my mind is best used for cages. Cut at 12 squares to get abuot a 24 inch circumfrance. I think cages do better than a weave.
I would maybe go with the long stand though with what you were wanting. I like to do a back to back row with access in between rows. Than doing 2 half rows might boe a good idea. If they were back to back than giving you more room for more plants hopefully.
Hope this helps if not hit me back we can work this out together.
First off CWR (Concrete Reinforcing Wire) in my mind is best used for cages. Cut at 12 squares to get abuot a 24 inch circumfrance. I think cages do better than a weave.
I would maybe go with the long stand though with what you were wanting. I like to do a back to back row with access in between rows. Than doing 2 half rows might boe a good idea. If they were back to back than giving you more room for more plants hopefully.
Hope this helps if not hit me back we can work this out together.
the "fence" approach is workable.
couple of thoughts -
I'd be leery to go 150' in one go without substantial posts / supports all along the line. a mis-calculation and you could lose the entire fence length - buckling / falling over / collapsing / whatever.
tomato vines and their fruit get right cotton picking heavy in full growth.
doesn't matter, Plan A, B or C - all will require attention / time to train the vines up onto the fencing. every 4 - 10 days, depending on weather and how fast they are growing.
Plan B is a bit redundant. trapping the crop "between" fences only makes it harder to harvest & clean up (post season)
Plan C is a disaster-in-waiting. you won't be able to easily reach into the interior to pick / harvest. also cuts down on air circulation - a major issue in disease control.
couple of thoughts -
I'd be leery to go 150' in one go without substantial posts / supports all along the line. a mis-calculation and you could lose the entire fence length - buckling / falling over / collapsing / whatever.
tomato vines and their fruit get right cotton picking heavy in full growth.
doesn't matter, Plan A, B or C - all will require attention / time to train the vines up onto the fencing. every 4 - 10 days, depending on weather and how fast they are growing.
Plan B is a bit redundant. trapping the crop "between" fences only makes it harder to harvest & clean up (post season)
Plan C is a disaster-in-waiting. you won't be able to easily reach into the interior to pick / harvest. also cuts down on air circulation - a major issue in disease control.
If you have the space plan A gives the plants the best air circulation
The plan with three fences be would be workable but train 1 row of plants to 1 fenceline only and have at least 5 ft of space between rows so there is air circulation and room to walk through to do the supports and harvest. You will be able to plant nearly as much as you would on option 1.
Vertical support post should be between every two to three plants to make sure the fence does not fall. I also would put top and middle braces along the fence to keep the fence from sagging.
The plan with three fences be would be workable but train 1 row of plants to 1 fenceline only and have at least 5 ft of space between rows so there is air circulation and room to walk through to do the supports and harvest. You will be able to plant nearly as much as you would on option 1.
Vertical support post should be between every two to three plants to make sure the fence does not fall. I also would put top and middle braces along the fence to keep the fence from sagging.
I'm very inclined to agree with all that has been said and just want to include one more idea for your planning:
Give some thought to what you would carry off a 150' row of tomatoes. Once they start producing, you will never get to the end at a single go, let alone, around the corner and back down the other side!
Not just for lowering the risk that it might topple over unless it is substantially supported by posts; I'd shorten the rows just so you can more easily manage the harvesting. Even 50' of tomatoes will give you lots to carry! Admittedly, I try to be orderly while being kind of an easy garden grower . . .
Steve
Give some thought to what you would carry off a 150' row of tomatoes. Once they start producing, you will never get to the end at a single go, let alone, around the corner and back down the other side!
Not just for lowering the risk that it might topple over unless it is substantially supported by posts; I'd shorten the rows just so you can more easily manage the harvesting. Even 50' of tomatoes will give you lots to carry! Admittedly, I try to be orderly while being kind of an easy garden grower . . .
Steve
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applestar
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What variety tomatoes are you growing?
Most of the ones I plant grow way taller than 5 ft, though this year, I'm going to be trying some varieties that are specifically not much taller than 3 ft or that will produce heavily below 3 ft height and these would do great with 5 ft support.
If you plan on training the upper vines along the support fence, then you will need to spread out the plants more. If not, you would need to raise the support higher -- I've seen some designs where they used SERIOUS fence posts and secured the CRW 12-18" above ground level....
Some people stack the wire cages gixxerific was talking about to make taller cages that support their 8+ ft plants.
Most of the ones I plant grow way taller than 5 ft, though this year, I'm going to be trying some varieties that are specifically not much taller than 3 ft or that will produce heavily below 3 ft height and these would do great with 5 ft support.
If you plan on training the upper vines along the support fence, then you will need to spread out the plants more. If not, you would need to raise the support higher -- I've seen some designs where they used SERIOUS fence posts and secured the CRW 12-18" above ground level....
Some people stack the wire cages gixxerific was talking about to make taller cages that support their 8+ ft plants.
You already have the fence, but contruction wire also comes in 7 ft lengths if you grow taller tomatoes.
If you were not using the wire. I would use the tallest fence posts I could get placed between every three tomatoes and do the Florida weave with nylon twine. It would make clean up at the end of the season a lot easier and set up would be faster.
I don't grow as many tomatoes as you do. I only need three at home and I have about a dozen at my other garden. At home I use 7 foot construction wire and the ends are wrapped around 2- 18 gallon tubs forming circular cages. I have another 18 gallon tub between them. The length is short enough that they don't need any additional staking. I do allow the tomatoes to run into each other, and all I do is push the strays between the wire or cut them off and redirect some of the wanderers back to the fence.
The other tomatoes I have are all in containers. Some of them have individual cages. These cages are not as stable and fall over in the wind unless they are staked on three sides. I also have a trellis the length of the bench (8ft). I use for stakes, 4 ft rebar that has been pounded into the ground. I placed bamboo over the rebar that are 8 ft long. I have a 7x7 construction wire placed between the bamboo achors and I have a third rebar/bamboo anchor in the middle. There are additional bamboo cross pieces about every 12 inches . I have 8 tomatoes on either side of the trellis. It is very strong and is about 4 years old. Eventually I will need to replace the bamboo. I use bamboo because it is easy and free to get.
If you were not using the wire. I would use the tallest fence posts I could get placed between every three tomatoes and do the Florida weave with nylon twine. It would make clean up at the end of the season a lot easier and set up would be faster.
I don't grow as many tomatoes as you do. I only need three at home and I have about a dozen at my other garden. At home I use 7 foot construction wire and the ends are wrapped around 2- 18 gallon tubs forming circular cages. I have another 18 gallon tub between them. The length is short enough that they don't need any additional staking. I do allow the tomatoes to run into each other, and all I do is push the strays between the wire or cut them off and redirect some of the wanderers back to the fence.
The other tomatoes I have are all in containers. Some of them have individual cages. These cages are not as stable and fall over in the wind unless they are staked on three sides. I also have a trellis the length of the bench (8ft). I use for stakes, 4 ft rebar that has been pounded into the ground. I placed bamboo over the rebar that are 8 ft long. I have a 7x7 construction wire placed between the bamboo achors and I have a third rebar/bamboo anchor in the middle. There are additional bamboo cross pieces about every 12 inches . I have 8 tomatoes on either side of the trellis. It is very strong and is about 4 years old. Eventually I will need to replace the bamboo. I use bamboo because it is easy and free to get.
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IndyGerdener
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I would go with "B". Like it was said before, you are setting yourself up for a disaster. it is like putting all your eggs in one basket. if it falls over in 1 spot it will prob drag the rest of the line down with it. Also with the 3 fence row, I think it will be difficult to harvest all of the tomato's in the middle, especially after the plants are full and big.
with the fences on both sides of your row you can access the plants from both sides, get good airflow, and can tie the 2 sides together. If it is strung right they should try to fall opposite each other. this will help the structure as a whole.
just my $0.02
with the fences on both sides of your row you can access the plants from both sides, get good airflow, and can tie the 2 sides together. If it is strung right they should try to fall opposite each other. this will help the structure as a whole.
just my $0.02
Maybe the Sticky here in Tomato Land on Tomato Support Methods has some answers for you?
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9