Bacterial Leaf spot or Antracnose or Septoria fungal disea

[sweetpepper*]

I have seen some of the photos and I am not exactly sure which one got me but it is several years running and I need a better solution.

The first year it came, we watched, it killed them all. I was just a stupid witness to the whole thing.

Another year I put down a heavy cover of newspaper because the problem pops up after a heavy rain where the soil is splashed onto the plant. It sorta worked, I didn't get ideal coverage with the paper. The problem came again, but not as ferocious. I would pick about 1 to 3 pounds of leaves from the plants everyday and it just about sickened me.

Eventually it took out more than half the leaves. I tried the baking soda and soap spray which kinda seemed to slow it down. Rainy days kinda made it a mute point though. I would say that it beat me again but at least there were enough green leaves to maintain the fruits till the first frost, which came really early this year. I did get a fair share of fruit.

So, if you have read this far and have a better solution, please tell me about it, and thanks.

[rainbowgardener]

Septoria would be the commonest. Most years I have some trouble with it. This year I didn't have any, not because of anything I did, but because we had a huge drought with not only hardly any rain for two months, but it was so dry the air was dry, a lot less humidity than we usually have.

But usually the results of septoria are as you say, that with some diligence, you can keep your tomatoes producing, even if a bit slowed down, until they would have died anyway.

One thing you didn't mention is crop rotation. Since you have had soil borne disease already, you should not plant tomatoes back in that spot for several years, if you can avoid it. I have a very small garden and can't always avoid it. Otherwise you are right that mulching is very important, and trimming off the bottom leaves so nothing touches the soil.

Here are some preventative measures re septoria:

Remove and destroy crop refuse at the end of the season. Where this is not practical, plow the refuse into the soil at the end of the season which will promote rapid breakdown by soil micro-organisms.
Practice rotation (3 years) to non-susceptible crops. The most effective rotations will also try to exclude susceptible weeds.
Promote good air circulation by spacing plants properly.
Hand-picking infected leaves will reduce the number of spores available for new infections.
Stay out of growing areas when the foliage is wet.
Water early in the day and, if possible, avoid wetting the foliage.
Stake plants.

I think being sure to prune out suckers helps too, to keep the plant from getting too bushy/leafy and promote good air circulation.

The baking soda treatment should help, but in warm wet/humid weather, you might need to do it once a week. You can alternate it with spraying a milk solution ( up to 50% milk diluted with water).

[sweetpepper*]

Hey thanks

I have a small garden where after 2 or 3 pm it's almost half shaded. I have attempted crop rotation, but we are talking about 4 to ten foot in distance.

I think my mulching and morning water should be perfected.

On the edge of the garden is a 10 x 10 foot patch of monkey type grass, which is like a hairy beast; could that be a source - storage of the spores. The grass doesn't seem affected like the tomatoes.

I wonder if that lacto-bacillus spray for the soil would help eliminate my problem?

[applestar]

I primarily spray the foliage with the milk solution. This creates a microbial colony on the leaves that helps to outcompete and resist fungal infection. Thoroughly spraying the leaves will naturally treat the soil as well.

Also consider good compost and compost tea (preferably AACT -- actively aerated compost tea) worked into the soil, soil drench, and foliar spray.

Mulching well as you said, and removing the lower leaves early.

[Darth]

Septoria is not a soil born disease, like any type of plants you would do good to rotate crops anyway..I grow heirlooms for a living and I can tell you that septoria is not as bad as many others, wilts and actrial canker are the worst they can stay in the soil for 3 or 4 years..recent study shows that planting brassicas will almost wipe out this issues, purple mustard seems to be the most effective.
Anthrocose is bad also...but not as bad as Bacterial speck which is another soil born disease that manifests as black spots on the fruits.
In any case a mild bleach spray can keep it from destroying tomatoes that will not be used imediatly.
You may want to pick the affected leaves off and use a copper based spray, I found a real good organic solution caled Serenade..it is pricey but worth it..I don't buy into the baking soda treatment and for me I have to make sure I get a crop and sometimes have to resort to Daconil only as a last resort. Hydrogen peroxide is another not so good treatment.
It works great on cuts though..hehehe
I hope this helps

Darth

[applestar]

Hmm... Yeah, mainly as mentioned, Seporia can be resisted by healthy tomato plants. The harshness of treatment may depend on your level of desperation (business vs. backyard home garden definitely will carry different perspectives ) and commitment to organic growing.

Mulching and removal of lower leaves to keep away soil borne diseases, as well as milder, preventive treatments of the foliage at first -- BEFORE DISEASE SYMPTOMS APEAR (Especialy if you have experienced them in your garden in previous years) -- I think will definitely help foster a more healthy growing condition for the plants.

Some years I'm right on top of things, and the milk spray and AACT sprays (which are mostly the only extent that I go to) have successfully staved off earlier appearance of diseases in many plants, not only tomatoes. I have to admit I lack the dedication to follow through sometimes -- or let's be fair to myself -- I often have health issues at some point during the growing season, so I really have yet to see what sustained effort throughout the season can do. I'd love to hear other gardener's experience on that score.

[JayPoc]

I use regular hardware store cages for my tomatoes. ALthough this year wasn't especially bad, I seem to always deal with some degree of leaf spot and early blight. I assume the cages from a previous year could infect the next years crop. Any way to sterilize the cages? I'd hate to have to buy new cages each year...

[imafan26]

If the same problems persist you could also try
1. soil solarization- reduce soil pathogens
2. selecting varieties with better disease resistance
3. vermicast or manure tea.- increases health of plants and beneficial organisms.
4. drip irrigation -less splashing back onto the plant, less water wasted
5. Removing foliage from lower 12 inches of plants- leaves won't get wet
6. Increase plant spacing for better aeration
7 Red plastic mulch= red mulch increases growth and covers the ground used with drip irrigation under the mulch, it will decrease soil moisture loss, requiring less water and less splashing of soil back onto the plants.
8. Crop rotation, rotate plants in beds on a 3 year rotation basis. Rotation crops cannot be from the same family or susceptible to the same diseases.
9. Clean and sterilize equipment and boots to prevent transfer of problems from bed to bed. Wash tools, boots with soap and water. Soak tools in 10% Physan or bleach solution minimum 30 minutes. If possible use a torch to sterilize pruners, clippers, etc.(just need to heat a few seconds not melt anything).
10 Sanitation- Remove debris, cull diseased plants. Bag and destroy, do not compost. Only hot composting kills spores and some diseases, cold composting does not.
11 Prophylactic fungicide program. Copper sulfate or Sulfur. It is easier to prevent than try to control after the fact.