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gunner1011
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:03 pm
- Location: pennsylvania
tomato plants with early blight
I believe my tomato plants have the early blight. The leaves have brown spots on them and the they are all curled up. I have flowers on them, but they dried up too. My question is---Is it safe to plant new plants in the same soil? Thanks for any help.
there's some good pix/info here re early/late blight:
https://organicgardening.about.com/b/2009/07/05/diagnosing-tomato-diseases-is-it-early-blight-late-blight-or-septoria.htm
the spores can stay in the soil - but I've never really seen any good info on whether they survive three years or three hundred years. so altho crop rotation is a wonderful idea, lacking acres.... I can only manage about a 3 year here-there-yonder cycle.
soil splashing on the plants is a generally cited method of infection.
as "standard practice" I mulch immediately when I set out the plants - I use spiral stakes for support - I prune off any leaves / branches close to the ground as soon as the plants "take off"
some years it "works" perfectly, other years the plants do get hit with early/late, or both.
if you are not staking - just letting them sprawl - that makes the "prevention approach" basically not applicable.
the curled up leaves may be a separate issue. there is an affliction that causes the left curl, it is often said 'looks bad but doesn't affect the yield" leave curl can also be a reaction to uneven moisture / drying out.
https://organicgardening.about.com/b/2009/07/05/diagnosing-tomato-diseases-is-it-early-blight-late-blight-or-septoria.htm
the spores can stay in the soil - but I've never really seen any good info on whether they survive three years or three hundred years. so altho crop rotation is a wonderful idea, lacking acres.... I can only manage about a 3 year here-there-yonder cycle.
soil splashing on the plants is a generally cited method of infection.
as "standard practice" I mulch immediately when I set out the plants - I use spiral stakes for support - I prune off any leaves / branches close to the ground as soon as the plants "take off"
some years it "works" perfectly, other years the plants do get hit with early/late, or both.
if you are not staking - just letting them sprawl - that makes the "prevention approach" basically not applicable.
the curled up leaves may be a separate issue. there is an affliction that causes the left curl, it is often said 'looks bad but doesn't affect the yield" leave curl can also be a reaction to uneven moisture / drying out.