Hello everyone,
I have dramatically increased the size of my tomato garden. I will be planting approximately 750 plants.
Until now, I used individual baskets for each plant.
Can someone a goood way to support 100' rows. I can't afford individual cages.
Or, does anyone know a good site that has some good pictures so I can get some ideas?
Thanks a million!
-
brucekeeler
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:54 pm
-
opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
Well we recommend Cedar stakes in general as recommended by my local organic nursery propreitor.
Though, 750 stakes may get a little pricey.
You could just hammer stakes into the soil (or even better some posts) and line wire to support the tomatoe plants; tying them off with old nylons or some other non abrasive material (don't use string; it will cut through the vines).
Also with all these tomatoe plants, I would plant some companion plants to feed the soil while the tomatoes are growing. A quick google search for Tomatoes and Companion Plants will give you some ideas.
Otherwise, tomatoes are such voracious feeders of the soil that they will strip it of all the nutrients. With a companion plant, your plants will also be that much healthier and provide you with more tomatoes.
Any other ideas?
Though, 750 stakes may get a little pricey.
You could just hammer stakes into the soil (or even better some posts) and line wire to support the tomatoe plants; tying them off with old nylons or some other non abrasive material (don't use string; it will cut through the vines).
Also with all these tomatoe plants, I would plant some companion plants to feed the soil while the tomatoes are growing. A quick google search for Tomatoes and Companion Plants will give you some ideas.
Otherwise, tomatoes are such voracious feeders of the soil that they will strip it of all the nutrients. With a companion plant, your plants will also be that much healthier and provide you with more tomatoes.
Any other ideas?
I once saw an episode on tv that showed a commercial organic garden that used the wire mesh used in pouring concrete. They made cages out of them. If memory serves me they cut them in either 6' or 9' lengths and then rolled them into cages. Here's a version.
https://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic_Gardening/2002_June_July/Using_Wire_Mesh
Newt
https://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic_Gardening/2002_June_July/Using_Wire_Mesh
Newt
-
opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
I have used many methods through the years and have been using the concrete reinforcing mesh for the last four years. I like the fact that the material is rigid and holds up well year to year. However it certainly could not be considered cost effective for 750 plants and the off-season cage storage issue would be aa problem; about 2500 sq. ft.! For those interested in smaller plantings (12 plants produce more than my family can consume) I find that the cage can be staked with a 4' section of rebar available where the mesh is sold. Drive it in solidly and weave the cage over the stake. Leave 4" of the vertical strands of the cage exposed at the bottom so that when the cage is pushed over the stake, the rest of the circumference is also pushed solidly into the soil. The system works well, particularly if the diameter is at least 30".
In the past, when I had access to a bamboo patch that needed thinning, I used simple pine stakes with two cross pieces, driven in to the row about every 8'. On these two tiers I used simple jute baling twine to attach the long bamboo pieces. I was not able to make the bamboo last more than one season, but it was free and I then had about 50 plants.
I also had an elderly friend who was once a truck farmer and often planted more than 100 plants. In his youth he planted around 1000 tomatoe plants. He always used a simple pine stake and twine. I might add that he also suckered the plants to a couple of main branches to keep the fruit off of the ground.
Good luck with the big planting, and don't forget to plant in stages!
In the past, when I had access to a bamboo patch that needed thinning, I used simple pine stakes with two cross pieces, driven in to the row about every 8'. On these two tiers I used simple jute baling twine to attach the long bamboo pieces. I was not able to make the bamboo last more than one season, but it was free and I then had about 50 plants.
I also had an elderly friend who was once a truck farmer and often planted more than 100 plants. In his youth he planted around 1000 tomatoe plants. He always used a simple pine stake and twine. I might add that he also suckered the plants to a couple of main branches to keep the fruit off of the ground.
Good luck with the big planting, and don't forget to plant in stages!
I have used both stakes and cages for my tomatoes, and I prefer staking for several reasons. storage is difficult, even for the dozen or so that I have. they aren't tall enough for what I grow, and it is difficult to harvest some of the lower tomatoes. from a contractior's point of view, I don't see how using CRM, (concrete reinforcing mesh) would improve on anything with the possible exception of height. and it would take some doing to anchor them... keep in mind that cages have legs that can be forced into the ground. additionally the mesh is typically 12 gauge low quality steel on a 4"x2" grid designed to be buried in concrete, and will rust like all getout when left exposed to air and moisture. we are definitely talking about more than trace amounts of different ferrous oxides.
I would set up rows of stakes, putting a stake every 8-10 feet, driving them into the ground. then run a length of nylon or poly (less prone to rotting) 1/8 inch parachute cord down the rows between them. a guy wire of cord coming off of each end at a 45 degree angle and anchored to the ground will supply more stability. I would think a length of cord every 18" or so off of the ground would be sufficient. then use garden tape, old pieces of hoseiry, or ripped up pieces of that floral set of sheets that your wife has that you can't stand to tie your plants to the cord.
as long as you are not over crowding your plants, and you soil is healthy, I don't see how you are overtaxing your soil more than anyone else. for example, let's say a tomato plant requires 10 square foot of surrounding soil, just to keep the math simple. if I put my 6 plants in a 60 sq. ft. bed, my neighbor puts his 30 plants in a 300 sq. ft. bed, and you put your 750 plants in 7500 sq. ft bed, we are all utilizing the nutrients in our soil to the same degree.
as an aside, you might try contacting the housekeeping departments of local hotels and / or hospitals. they replace their sheets on a regular basis, and they may be willing to let you have some old ones, allowing you to utilize something otherwise destined for the landfill, and keeping you in the wife's good graces...
chris
I would set up rows of stakes, putting a stake every 8-10 feet, driving them into the ground. then run a length of nylon or poly (less prone to rotting) 1/8 inch parachute cord down the rows between them. a guy wire of cord coming off of each end at a 45 degree angle and anchored to the ground will supply more stability. I would think a length of cord every 18" or so off of the ground would be sufficient. then use garden tape, old pieces of hoseiry, or ripped up pieces of that floral set of sheets that your wife has that you can't stand to tie your plants to the cord.
as long as you are not over crowding your plants, and you soil is healthy, I don't see how you are overtaxing your soil more than anyone else. for example, let's say a tomato plant requires 10 square foot of surrounding soil, just to keep the math simple. if I put my 6 plants in a 60 sq. ft. bed, my neighbor puts his 30 plants in a 300 sq. ft. bed, and you put your 750 plants in 7500 sq. ft bed, we are all utilizing the nutrients in our soil to the same degree.
as an aside, you might try contacting the housekeeping departments of local hotels and / or hospitals. they replace their sheets on a regular basis, and they may be willing to let you have some old ones, allowing you to utilize something otherwise destined for the landfill, and keeping you in the wife's good graces...
chris
-
brucekeeler
- Newly Registered
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:54 pm
Hi all,
This is my first post here. Nice site.
Here's a fairly comprehensive analysis of staking methods:
https://www.mastergardeners.org/picks/tomato_staking.html
Here's a method probably better suited to smaller determinates:
https://www.foogod.com/~torquill/barefoot/weave.html
Myself, I use the regular commercial cages with a stake holding it in place.
[img]https://aquamaniacs.net/forum/files/ChampionLargeFruitSet.jpg[/img]
This is my first post here. Nice site.
Here's a fairly comprehensive analysis of staking methods:
https://www.mastergardeners.org/picks/tomato_staking.html
Here's a method probably better suited to smaller determinates:
https://www.foogod.com/~torquill/barefoot/weave.html
Myself, I use the regular commercial cages with a stake holding it in place.
[img]https://aquamaniacs.net/forum/files/ChampionLargeFruitSet.jpg[/img]
Hello, I am new here. I was trying to escape the winter storm we are by gardening on line. -40 C for almost a month and now a blizzard can't wait until spring planting.
I bought some stakes from Lee Valley. They have an online store. The stakes are spiral and the plants grow up with very little help. Lee Valley was the cheapest I saw for these wonders. but the price adds up for 750 plants. I plant about 24-30. Or I did when I used cages. Once I started to use these stakes my yield doubled, way less blossom end rot and healthier plants. I have tried the cages, they just tip over due to the weight...even if you cut the suckers. Now I plant about 12-15 plants, can amazing amounts and still have lots to give away. I have used them for 2 season. Out of 25 the first year 3 bent a few degrees but they were straightened. They are ready for a third season. I've introduced some of my friends to these and they love them
Hope this helps
I bought some stakes from Lee Valley. They have an online store. The stakes are spiral and the plants grow up with very little help. Lee Valley was the cheapest I saw for these wonders. but the price adds up for 750 plants. I plant about 24-30. Or I did when I used cages. Once I started to use these stakes my yield doubled, way less blossom end rot and healthier plants. I have tried the cages, they just tip over due to the weight...even if you cut the suckers. Now I plant about 12-15 plants, can amazing amounts and still have lots to give away. I have used them for 2 season. Out of 25 the first year 3 bent a few degrees but they were straightened. They are ready for a third season. I've introduced some of my friends to these and they love them
Hope this helps
-
Durgan
- Cool Member
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:50 am
- Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada Zone 5
https://xrl.us/qvdu
Thess are pictures from the 2006 garden in Zone 5. I had 30 plants of 15 varieties and all were excellent. Notice in some of the pictures the size of the cage wires. They are very strong.
Experimenting over the years with various supports, concrete reinforcing, cheap cages, posts, I have now the best mothod so far in my humble opinion.
2006 I found cages that were made from a heavier gage mesh, not like the flimsy ones that have been on the market for years.
To support the cage, and for more tying the plant when it gets higher, an 6 or 8 foot rebar is put in place. I use coverd pipe cleaners which I got from a craft shop about a foot long for tying to the cage and bar. The cage supplies the most support so not much is required.
I paint the rebar with a brush on top of plastic to inhibit rust. The cages are easy to store because they are tapered.
This year I am going to buy a few of the spiral supports to see if they have any merit. (Lee Valley).
When I have four good sized bunches I cut off the top leader, since after 31 Aug in my zone 5 nothing ripens further. I estimate the tomates picked were about 400. I fed the neighborhood.
Durgan.
Thess are pictures from the 2006 garden in Zone 5. I had 30 plants of 15 varieties and all were excellent. Notice in some of the pictures the size of the cage wires. They are very strong.
Experimenting over the years with various supports, concrete reinforcing, cheap cages, posts, I have now the best mothod so far in my humble opinion.
2006 I found cages that were made from a heavier gage mesh, not like the flimsy ones that have been on the market for years.
To support the cage, and for more tying the plant when it gets higher, an 6 or 8 foot rebar is put in place. I use coverd pipe cleaners which I got from a craft shop about a foot long for tying to the cage and bar. The cage supplies the most support so not much is required.
I paint the rebar with a brush on top of plastic to inhibit rust. The cages are easy to store because they are tapered.
This year I am going to buy a few of the spiral supports to see if they have any merit. (Lee Valley).
When I have four good sized bunches I cut off the top leader, since after 31 Aug in my zone 5 nothing ripens further. I estimate the tomates picked were about 400. I fed the neighborhood.
Durgan.
Your garden is one to be proud of. -
Durgan
- Cool Member
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:50 am
- Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada Zone 5
One method for a small garden not mentioned is the string procedure.
This method is great for probably up to 10 plants and a maximium of 30.
Hammer three 8 foot fence post along the row, about a foot into the soil. This give 7 feet for head clearance.
Install a metal bar across the top, the angle iron T cross section post 10 feet each bolted together works just fine. Wire the cross bar to the top of the three posts. This gives a strong overhead support, quite rigid.
Use 3/8 soft clothsline rope for connecting to the bottom of the main stem of the tomato plant. Wrap the rope around the main stem with a few turns. Connect at the bottom using small plastic ties. Clove hitch the other end to the overhead bar for easy removal to make future turns around the plant. Repeat the procedure for any side growth if you have more than the main stem. Sometimes it is necessary to add another rope further up the main stem if the plant gets excessively large. I will see if I can find the pictures from previous years, but I think they are lost.
I have used this method for five years, but now prefer the heavier cages with one of two 8 foot re-bars for support. Never has the overhead structure fallen over.
For about 20 plants I have put 9 eight foot posts above the plants as described above, and laid concrete reinforcing 4 by 8 sheets across the top held in place with plastic ties. and tied the plants to the most appropiate place to keep the plant stem relatively separated. A tie on stem of each bunch gives more than adequate support for the fruit and the plant is not in anyway confined.
This method is excellent for probably a maximium of 20 or 30 plants, but can become rather tedius if more are planted.
Durgan.
This method is great for probably up to 10 plants and a maximium of 30.
Hammer three 8 foot fence post along the row, about a foot into the soil. This give 7 feet for head clearance.
Install a metal bar across the top, the angle iron T cross section post 10 feet each bolted together works just fine. Wire the cross bar to the top of the three posts. This gives a strong overhead support, quite rigid.
Use 3/8 soft clothsline rope for connecting to the bottom of the main stem of the tomato plant. Wrap the rope around the main stem with a few turns. Connect at the bottom using small plastic ties. Clove hitch the other end to the overhead bar for easy removal to make future turns around the plant. Repeat the procedure for any side growth if you have more than the main stem. Sometimes it is necessary to add another rope further up the main stem if the plant gets excessively large. I will see if I can find the pictures from previous years, but I think they are lost.
I have used this method for five years, but now prefer the heavier cages with one of two 8 foot re-bars for support. Never has the overhead structure fallen over.
For about 20 plants I have put 9 eight foot posts above the plants as described above, and laid concrete reinforcing 4 by 8 sheets across the top held in place with plastic ties. and tied the plants to the most appropiate place to keep the plant stem relatively separated. A tie on stem of each bunch gives more than adequate support for the fruit and the plant is not in anyway confined.
This method is excellent for probably a maximium of 20 or 30 plants, but can become rather tedius if more are planted.
Durgan.
-
garden girl
- Cool Member
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 12:10 pm
- Location: Humboldt County, CA
I, too, am deciding what to do for support this year. I am going to do several things at once this year and see what happens.
I bought five triangular cages from a yard sale,they seem to go into the ground fairly deep and are dark green, which shouldn't look too hideous.
We have some wooden stakes, but tying the plants up all the time is not really for me, we'll see.
I have several very large planters that now have spring plantings in them, but I think they will be the best because I can fit a few plants in each because of the size and they can hang over the sides. Clean fruit, no tying, I just wish the cost was less for large containers(or filling them!)
Also, I am going to try hanging some in my new greenhouse. A couple in large grow bags and a couple in buckets, I'm still figuring out what kind of foam/material to use to keep the plants from falling out of the buckets. I have checked out the popular hanging things for tomatoes, but for the price, I can come up with something better/cheaper/bigger(they are way too small in my opinion)
Oh, those tomato spirals, they are so small.Kinda cute,though.
I bought five triangular cages from a yard sale,they seem to go into the ground fairly deep and are dark green, which shouldn't look too hideous.
We have some wooden stakes, but tying the plants up all the time is not really for me, we'll see.
I have several very large planters that now have spring plantings in them, but I think they will be the best because I can fit a few plants in each because of the size and they can hang over the sides. Clean fruit, no tying, I just wish the cost was less for large containers(or filling them!)
Also, I am going to try hanging some in my new greenhouse. A couple in large grow bags and a couple in buckets, I'm still figuring out what kind of foam/material to use to keep the plants from falling out of the buckets. I have checked out the popular hanging things for tomatoes, but for the price, I can come up with something better/cheaper/bigger(they are way too small in my opinion)
Oh, those tomato spirals, they are so small.Kinda cute,though.
. Maybe this year-
garden girl
- Cool Member
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 12:10 pm
- Location: Humboldt County, CA
Along with my containers, cages, hanging contraptions, I am going to attach some to our wooden privacy fence(the side of the yard that gets sun on the fence) I just found a picture online and they looked great! I can't wait to get everything out in the ground, it's pouring as I write this...........as for the spirals-I would like to see some good pictures of them holding up plants with heavy friut, definately take pictures this year! 