Haydan
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:21 pm
Location: New Zealand

What's wrong with my tomatoe plant?

At first I had a Mg deffeicency (pruple viens) but cleared that up no probs with salts.

I thought whats occuring may have been a phosphouros issue (though that didn't maketo much sence as the plant to teh left and right of this one are fine - different varietys though) so a week ago I added a shot of phosphorous but have seen no improvement.

I've been scouring the web for what it might be, there is no evedence of fungus and I have treated the plants with a systemic fungicide 4 weeks ago and a booster of systemic plus some copper a week ago (no improvement).

I'm worried that this might be a virus but the leaves do not have a mottled apearance. Older leaves are curly up like tacos and are quite limp, turning brown and eventually dying. Young leaves are wilting and curling up on themselves.

What would you guys do with this plant? I'm thinking I should pull it and dispose of it just to be sure but I'll catch a lot a flak if I do that as its one of the better halves plants :roll:

Here's some pics:

[img]https://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z339/Haydan_Tompkins/TopLeaves.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z339/Haydan_Tompkins/OldLeaves.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z339/Haydan_Tompkins/Compare.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z339/Haydan_Tompkins/BottomLeaves.jpg[/img]

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Kisal
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Posts: 7646
Joined: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:04 am
Location: Oregon

The yellowed leaves look like chlorosis to me, but I'm not positive. Typically, with that condition, the leaves turn yellow but the veins stay green. It generally indicates a mineral deficiency. Since you've corrected the magnesium problem, you might test for iron. First, though, I think I would test the soil pH, because soil that is too acid or too alkaline can prevent a plant from absorbing the minerals it needs. Soil pH could be the main cause of the mineral deficiencies the plant seems to be suffering. After you know the pH, and correct that if necessary, then adding any mineral amendments would be more effective ... or might not even be necessary. JMO. :)

Haydan
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:21 pm
Location: New Zealand

Wouldn't you expect the plant on either side to also be effected though? THey both look pretty good

Haydan
Newly Registered
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:21 pm
Location: New Zealand

I did pH tests today from around the garden the pH around the healthy tomatoes is around 7 and the sicker one was a little lower at 6.5.



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