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applestar
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Cilantro in spring, now dill are flowering and attracting tons of beneficial insects including [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=135080#135080]aphid mummy makers[/url] and hover flies. Overwintered parsley, by far, has the longest flowering period. I'm sowing parsley everywhere right now (latest to establish parsley is said to be 7/15 around here).

https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28039

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applestar
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OK, [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28176]here's ANOTHER grouping[/url].

Luffa and pole beans plus the unknown squash -- maybe ornamental gourd -- do not seem to be slowing down the tomatoes any. The Daylilies along the wall flowered before the tomatoes and the other vining plants started taking off. There is also a watermelon growing through the tomatoes in the back, also a small clump of Black-eyed Susans and Tansy. 8)

In the front are Calendula and Stevia as well as two hot pepper plants and yet another smallish curcurbit that might be a melon.

alexia.brake
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Wow, applestar you got some super compaion plants going on there. :lol:

On the flip side of the question, what plants shouldn't you plant tomtoes with?
unlocking the mystery of growing the "perfect tomato" (without losing my mind)

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lorax
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Potatoes, peppers, & other nightshades. They're all prone to similar diseases & generally should be kept separate.

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rainbowgardener
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Corn.. they are both heavy feeders and would be competing for nitrogen, plus the corn gets tall and would shade the tomatoes.

Some companion planting will say not broccoli, but I don't know why. I do that and it works for me, although it probably helps it not be a problem that I pull the broccoli so early -- by mid May or so the broccoli is gone, so not an issue for most of the tomato season.
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RyanDe680
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rainbowgardener wrote:I have a bed for tomatos. Very early in the season, a month before last frost, I transplant broccoli starts into it. When it's warm enough I put the tomato seedlings behind them. By the time the tomato plants need more room, the broccoli is done and I pull it.

In the meantime, I put in marigolds, nasturtiums, onions and carrots around the edges. This year I tried borage, which is supposed to be a good companion plant for tomatoes, but in my limited space it quickly got too huge and was crowding everything, so I pulled it out again.

Soon I will start some lettuce in any spaces left, for a fall crop. (Carrots are about ready for harvest) The tomatoes will provide shade for the lettuce while it is still hot. Once the tomatoes are done for the season I will put plastic over the lettuce and hope to keep it going for awhile. By this means, I will have things growing/ producing in that bed, from early March well into November. Pretty good for zone 6!
How do you get lettuce to grow well in the heat?

Mine gets a small head and then just bolts...

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rainbowgardener
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To start with, I have better luck with leaf lettuce than head lettuce, which I don't grow any more. Then I plant the seeds in the shade of the tomatoes beginning of Aug. By the time they are sprouted they only have a few weeks of summer heat. By labor day, we are pretty well done with summer here. It will be warm, but not hot, humid, muggy, like summer. Once it cools off, they are fine.
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gixxerific
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rainbowgardener wrote:To start with, I have better luck with leaf lettuce than head lettuce, which I don't grow any more. Then I plant the seeds in the shade of the tomatoes beginning of Aug. By the time they are sprouted they only have a few weeks of summer heat. By labor day, we are pretty well done with summer here. It will be warm, but not hot, humid, muggy, like summer. Once it cools off, they are fine.
That is a great plan my friend one that I will be going my myself. Fall is just around the corner so we need to really start thinking about it.

By the way I have tomatoes right next to potatoes. The spuds went down but the tomatoes are doing great. So who knows if this myth is really something or not. My other spuds went down as well in a different garden well away from any tomatoes. So it wasn't' the grouping's fault just luck of the season.

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Re: Companion plants with your tomato plants

Basil and parsley. Dill helps tomatoes until they bloom and then they will stunt the tomatoes. Pulling the dill when they bloom fixes that. Borage, marigolds, green onions, and chives are good companions too. I have fennel in a corner of the garden. It attracts a host of beneficial insects and is good to eat too. It does not like company, that is why it is off in the corner next to horseradish, ginger, and gynuura. They are not bothered by the fennel.
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