Tomato Support Methods

[MaxG]

As I've seen in some of the other posts on this topic, I too am a fan of using cattle and livestock panels to support tomatoes and a variety of other plants, including some, such as watermelons, you often don't associate with growing on a trellis. The panels are galvanized, and after years of use remain in very good condition.

Here are a couple of pictures of used cattle panels repurposed from their original use as part of a horse corral. Years of whatever abuse the horses dished out on them resulted in some kinks and bending, but they still function fine as plant supports.

Two parallel panels used as a tomato cage:

One panel set up as an arch trellis growing Crane melons.

crane-melons-480.jpg (67.91 KiB) Viewed 18412 times

[dtizme]

After reading into it a bit I think I am going to go with gixx method of Concrete reinforcing wire cages. I was reading in other places where these things basically last forever. They seem by far the most solid method of caging your tomatoes with a little bit of effort. It will cost a bit initally but they will last forever and are very solid.

[gixxerific]

dtizme yes I believe after the initial work of putting them together CRW cages are the easiest pretty much plant and forget. I picked up an almost full roll off a job, I will be making more cages this winter. I believe I said go 12 squares using number 12 as the tie but I will be making them a bit bigger next time. maybe a full 12 squares with 13 as the tie. I will have to see what they look like.

Good luck and remember CRW can be unforgiving when rolling out, so be cautious. Wear gloves

[dtizme]

The CRW I am getting is precut into 8 X 4 foot sections which will wind up being 8 squares high by 16 wide. 12 X 12 sounds like a nice size for me but I don't have that option So I figure I should have about a 2-2 and a half foot diameter circle by 4 feet high. should be more than enough for me. I'll let everyone know the exact size once I put 1 together. I think they are approximately $10 a section but my uncle works at a lumber store so he is going to hook me up with a few.

[gixxerific]

Just measured one at random that was 11 squares it was 22 3/8".

[ChrisC_77]

I use stakes that I made out scrape fence boards. This year, I am tying my tomatoes to the stakes with strips of plastic grocery bags. Another cost free method.

[Lindsaylew82]

I used to use wooden stakes, but the earth in my garden is rich and lends large bushy plants that at as a "sail" in the wind. A few years ago, I had to re-stake SEVERAL times. I think I have a pic... This is the first big storm we had that year. 2011.





Some of these plants had 3-4 stakes. Most plants had at least 2 stakes. This was they year I threw up my hand and got something more permanent. We got 12 foot rebar and cut them in half. We should have bought 10 foot and kept them solid! Plants are so tall this year! So far, I've been pretty happy with rebar.

My dream cage would be the CRW. But the amount I'd need would cost me dearly. It's VERY expensive! I can accommodate 20ish plants and that allows for generous spacing. If I cram it all in, I could double that, but it's crowded up top. Roots are still good. 40 plants=40 cages=too much dang money!

Rebar has worked real well for me!

[lily51]

[quote="TZ -OH6"]I wish this forum had direct download for pictures. I do have some great pictures but I don't have an image account and don't plan on getting one. I'm on dail-up and can't even see most of the pictures other people post here because of download times from places like Imageshack.


I agree! Applestar if you can do this, it would be great!

[Zintuplet]

Hey, I have let my vine grow along the ground, the leaves deep in the vine are turning yellow an dieing off. I'm not sure of the reason, it is hitting 40 degrees Celsius here nowdays. Could it be the underneath is not getting enough sun or too much or..? Should I create a support to allow more sun to the bottoms?

[HoneyBerry]

MaxG: I love those cattle panel supports as shown in your photos. Nice job. I have been thinking about using cattle panels for some of my gardening. I think they are heavy to lift. That's the only thing that holds me back. I looked at some at the farm supply store and they were very heavy gauge metal. Nice for supporting melons etc, but heavy to lift.

[applestar]

Hey, I have let my vine grow along the ground, the leaves deep in the vine are turning yellow an dieing off. I'm not sure of the reason, it is hitting 40 degrees Celsius here nowdays. Could it be the underneath is not getting enough sun or too much or..? Should I create a support to allow more sun to the bottoms?

Definitely could be lack of sun, but also it might be too humid inside all that foliage and they are getting fungal disease.... Another reason for staking is to allow more airflow and allow the foliage to stay dry.

[Zintuplet]

Thanks mate.

[TEWNCfarms]

Anyone use a tomato table trellis? I want to start a pollard and I can make it with sticks. But I have orange construction fencing I stake down laying flat 2-3' over the tomato plants.

What would be the best method for multiple (150) tomato plants, but want to till between the rows (6' apart, 18" spaced in row), and want Maximum yield? The table gets in the way of tilling. Hoping to one day maybe start mulching always like backtoeden gardens, but don't have the time or money for that right now.

[Lindsaylew82]

I think Lakngulf did this once with concrete wire on his non-lake garden. I can't find the post, but maybe he will post a link here.

While off topic....sort of...you could put down double or triple layers of brown paper (you can find rolls of it in the paint section at lowes, cheap) and then put old straw or pine straw on top of that. The price is reasonable, and it works very well for me.

[applestar]

For large number of plants in a row - straight line or curved in my case with the Spiral Garden - I think Florida Weave is the best least expensive method. It just takes paying attention and tying up new level of string once a week or so.

It's a bit more pain when growing many different varieties like I do because their growth rate and pattern are so variable, but it can be managed with careful planning at planting time. If you are growing same variety in a row, it should be much easier.

If you want to use that construction fencing, you could securely tie it to sturdy posts not horizontally as table but vertically every few lighterweight pollard stakes, bottom of the fencing a foot or so above the ground to provide enough clearance for the tiller and hoe, etc. then use the fencing to tie your tomato vines up.

[lakngulf]

I think Lakngulf did this once with concrete wire on his non-lake garden. I can't find the post, but maybe he will post a link here.

This was for my second crop tomatoes last year...The process starts great and the cattle panels give great support to the plants. Lots of fruit and nice healthy tomatoes....BUT...the July / August sun cooks the tomatoes, since they do not have the plant leaves on top to protect them. And it is difficult to control weeds under the panel



So this is my second crop tomatoes this year, in just about the same location. I bought another roll of concrete reinforcement wire and made hoops for each plant. Works so much better, and they last a long time. This keeps the plants growing above the fruit and protects from so much sun. And yes, these plant rows are too close together. At first I was going to LEAN cattle panels at an angle to try that. So now I am saying the rows are close to offer more July August sun protection

[KitchenGardener]

Why is it that in the first photo you say they don't have leaf protection over the fruit? Is it that the panels are low and the plants double over once they're through the panel? Not quite sure I understand. I get the not being able to really tackle the weeds underneath, but am not sure I'm getting your first point.

LOVE your tomato jungle. I did not start my tomatoes early enough this year (hibernation ended late this year for me ) and refused to spend the money on nursery starts, so I'd be embarrassed to show you what my insipid tomato plants look like! Admittedly, they are finally taking off...

[lakngulf]

Why is it that in the first photo you say they don't have leaf protection over the fruit? Is it that the panels are low and the plants double over once they're through the panel? Not quite sure I understand. I get the not being able to really tackle the weeds underneath, but am not sure I'm getting your first point.

LOVE your tomato jungle. I did not start my tomatoes early enough this year (hibernation ended late this year for me ) and refused to spend the money on nursery starts, so I'd be embarrassed to show you what my insipid tomato plants look like! Admittedly, they are finally taking off...

Glad you like the jungle. I tried to walk between the rows yesterday and it is quite difficult.

With the flat cattle panels, you are correct, the plants just lay down once they are thru the panel. They put on LOTS of tomatoes, and they are left wide open to the sun.

[Ksk]

To address the high winds I have had luck with a pvc structure and very thin cloth anchored with big bull dog clips. Also, as per the wind and string cutting the plants, I found green Velcro (sold at nursery) that allows you to easily support the plant and change your mind as the vines grow.

[JoeDirt]

If you can find them old TV antenna stands make great support stands

[applestar]

Reviewing my tomato support methods —

=Groups/Rows=
- Inexpensive especially when I already have 7ft 3/4” bamboo stakes and fence posts — Florida Weave with untreated jute and/or cotton kitchen twine.
— Pros - Easy cleanup at end of season. Cons - need to keep stringing upper tiers of support. Sags.
- Sturdy once and done — concrete Remesh panels (or livestock panels — but for me, these are too long and can’t easily be transported) secured to heavy duty T-posts.
— Pros - long flat/straight runs possible. Cons - pricey
- Less expensive option - wire fence roll secured to T-posts.
— Pros - long curved stretch’s possible. Cons - small opening won’t allow reaching through

=Individuals=
- Spiral tomato stakes
- 7 ft 3/4” bamboo stakes
- green plastic coated metal tube stakes
- 3/8” Fiberglas electric fence and deer fence posts and bamboo whips

=for tying up vines=
- tomato clips for thin stems and support (string, wire, 3/8” stakes and bamboo whips, spiral stakes)
- cotton kitchen twine for bunching and tying (cherry tomato around spiral stakes)
- defunct athletic socks cut in rings for soft/cushiony support of thicker vines and fruit trusses — pull/stretch once to fully extend the elastic before tying

[SQWIB]

There are a lot of great ideas on this thread and this is just one of those things that there is no "one fits all" type of caging, whether it's due to available resources, cost, location, storage of cages, varieties being grown, spacing etc...

And looking through the thread looks like there are a quite a few methods with varying results not to mention different varieties.

I have tried quite a bit of different methods and finally have one that works for me.
Texas Tomato Cages, I love the fact that I walk by the cages every day or every other day and just push the new growth inside for support. Cost was a bit rough, but the fact that I only grow 10 or less tomato plants made the decision easier.

I felt that I earned the right to purchase these after struggling for years with different techniques... sounds like an ad!

If I opted to make my own, and I almost did, I would either make round cages from concrete remesh alternating the diameter so 4 could stack together and make a total of eight so they only took up the footprint of two cages when stored.

Or just use a trellising system and tie to the trellis, these would store flat.
But after seeing the TTC and the fact that they fold flat cinched it for me because space is at a premium in my small Urban Garden.

[applestar]

I was watching an anime and they showed a field of tomatoes being supported like this. I wonder if this is a practical method? I’m assuming individual vines are being supported with strings tied to the upper bamboo cross beams.



...I might have to re-watch that episode and see if they depicted more details ....

[digitS']

Of course, several of the photos on this thread are missing because of changes in Photobucket. I didn't read every post but went back to look at each picture and those linked. I didn't really see the trellises that I have seen in greenhouses. Your image, AppleStar, looks like it would be suitable there. The photo I found thru the U of Illinois (attached) isn't quite what I was looking for.

I have used a number of supports and continue to use 3 or 4 tomato cages in the backyard but I finally decided that there are just too many plants in the garden and too little time for anything but the "sprawl."

From individual stakes to livestock fencing cages to Florida weave, support has worked okay. The only technique that was a fail was my own idea of a horizontal trellis with string. It's okay for my peas each year but tomato vines are just too heavy.

If I downsize to a smaller tomato patch, certainly it will have supports for the plants. I'm not sure if I would go with string after my fail with horizontal but a vertical trellis might work. There are special clips for attaching the plants. Here's a greenhouse set-up:

indeterminate_tomatoes.jpg (93.77 KiB) Viewed 17584 times

Steve

[Vanisle_BC]

I was watching an anime and they showed a field of tomatoes being supported like this. I wonder if this is a practical method? I’m assuming individual vines are being supported with strings tied to the upper bamboo cross beams.



...I might have to re-watch that episode and see if they depicted more details ....

I'd say the A-frames illustrated are much too narrow, therefore vulnerable to toppling sideways under unbalanced weight (unless driven well into the ground.) Could lean heavily the other way too, along the row axis if not braced.

I do train my tomatoes similarly up strings, but those drop from a roof frame that's part of my raised bed; like a much smaller, more improvised version of the picture on digit's's post.

I grow them covered to protect the foliage from long-term wetness. I read somewhere that this would prevent late blight. I water at ground level; previously by hand, lately with a timed drip system.

I hold the vines to the strings with these clips, which work well but don't tend to last more than a season in the sunlight.

Before I got them I just twisted the stems around the strings; may go back to doing that. Advantage, it's thrifty, convenient and the thickness of the string doesn't have to match the clips. Disadvantage, it's a chore to disentangle them when composting. Either way the string must be strong!