Vermiculite, Perlite, Pete Moss: How do they help our soil ?
I have used all of the avove on my soil mixes. I don't think any of these have any nutrients in them? I believe they help the soil drain better and retain some moisture, I'm just not sure which does what. I think vermiculite absorbs moisture, is that the stuff you find in the little envelopes inside electronic items??
I like perlite, because it helps to "coarsen" the texture of the heavy clay soil I have. It actually absorbs water, and while allowing the soil to drain more quickly, at the same time, it allows it to retain some moisture and not dry into a solid lump.
Vermiculite supposedly does the same thing, but I've never had very good results from it. It's actually a type of clay, which might explain why it doesn't work very well in my soil.
Peat moss I just plain avoid. It has only ever caused me problems. If the surface of the soil dries, the peat moss can make it very difficult to rewet, making the water just run off the surface. At the same time, it holds water voraciously, making it very easy to drown the roots of a plant. It is sometimes used as an acidifier, but the soil in my area is already highly acidic. If I need to acidify the soil in a container, I use elemental sulphur.
I don't know whether any of this will be of any use to you. You are probably working with soil that's the exact opposite of what I have here. Yours is probably loose and sandy.
I have used gypsum to break up my clay soil, and it worked well. Compost does the same thing, plus it adds nutrients, but it doesn't last as long, so I have to work harder.
I think your best bet would be to have a soil analysis done. You might contact your nearest Extension Service office, because many will do a basic analysis for a nominal fee ... some don't charge at all. Until you know exactly what is in your soil, you won't know how to change it. You can do it by trial and error, but that could take quite some time.
The stuff inside the little envelopes is called silica gel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel
Vermiculite supposedly does the same thing, but I've never had very good results from it. It's actually a type of clay, which might explain why it doesn't work very well in my soil.
Peat moss I just plain avoid. It has only ever caused me problems. If the surface of the soil dries, the peat moss can make it very difficult to rewet, making the water just run off the surface. At the same time, it holds water voraciously, making it very easy to drown the roots of a plant. It is sometimes used as an acidifier, but the soil in my area is already highly acidic. If I need to acidify the soil in a container, I use elemental sulphur.
I don't know whether any of this will be of any use to you. You are probably working with soil that's the exact opposite of what I have here. Yours is probably loose and sandy.
I have used gypsum to break up my clay soil, and it worked well. Compost does the same thing, plus it adds nutrients, but it doesn't last as long, so I have to work harder.
I think your best bet would be to have a soil analysis done. You might contact your nearest Extension Service office, because many will do a basic analysis for a nominal fee ... some don't charge at all. Until you know exactly what is in your soil, you won't know how to change it. You can do it by trial and error, but that could take quite some time.
The stuff inside the little envelopes is called silica gel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel
Thanks. I'm actualy growing in raised beds and containers. So I'm trying to find the perfect mix. I amd currently going with 1/3 Black cow manure, 1/3 pete moss and the balance MG organic garden soil with some vermiculite thrown in.Kisal wrote:I like perlite, because it helps to "coarsen" the texture of the heavy clay soil I have. It actually absorbs water, and while allowing the soil to drain more quickly, at the same time, it allows it to retain some moisture and not dry into a solid lump.
Vermiculite supposedly does the same thing, but I've never had very good results from it. It's actually a type of clay, which might explain why it doesn't work very well in my soil.
Peat moss I just plain avoid. It has only ever caused me problems. If the surface of the soil dries, the peat moss can make it very difficult to rewet, making the water just run off the surface. At the same time, it holds water voraciously, making it very easy to drown the roots of a plant. It is sometimes used as an acidifier, but the soil in my area is already highly acidic. If I need to acidify the soil in a container, I use elemental sulphur.
I don't know whether any of this will be of any use to you. You are probably working with soil that's the exact opposite of what I have here. Yours is probably loose and sandy.
I have used gypsum to break up my clay soil, and it worked well. Compost does the same thing, plus it adds nutrients, but it doesn't last as long, so I have to work harder.
I think your best bet would be to have a soil analysis done. You might contact your nearest Extension Service office, because many will do a basic analysis for a nominal fee ... some don't charge at all. Until you know exactly what is in your soil, you won't know how to change it. You can do it by trial and error, but that could take quite some time.
The stuff inside the little envelopes is called silica gel.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel
Well, I'd certainly get rid of the peat moss. It's a good bet that the MG potting soil already contains plenty of peat moss. Maybe add some compost, instead. You might also want to try switching from vermiculite to perlite, to see if that helps the situation.
The experience I had with vermiculite was that it tended to become soft and kind of mushy, which didn't help maintain the loose soil texture I wanted. Perlite stays firm. so it works better for me. The MG probably contains perlite already, though, so maybe you don't need to add more.
I haven't used MG potting soil, so I have no idea what the texture is like.
The experience I had with vermiculite was that it tended to become soft and kind of mushy, which didn't help maintain the loose soil texture I wanted. Perlite stays firm. so it works better for me. The MG probably contains perlite already, though, so maybe you don't need to add more.
I haven't used MG potting soil, so I have no idea what the texture is like.
Vermiculite is actually heat "puffed" mica rock. It acts like a sponge to absorb a lot of water, but I find that it breaks down into flakes after a while because it swells and contracts with wetting and drying. It is mainly used in seedling mixes rather than long term potting mixes.
Perlite is heat puffed volcanic rock. It absorbes water but does not swell and contract the way vermiculite does so it adds air to a mix by preventing contraction as the mix dries.
Peatmoss is a tried and true organic filler for mixes. It is relatively inexpensive, long lasting, holds water well and loosely binds nutrients, but it is acidic and needs a bit of powdered lime or dolomite to buffer its acidity as it ages. The main problem is that it is hydrophobic and does not wet easily. Compost, vermiculite and perlite mixed in with it help with this problem.
Perlite is heat puffed volcanic rock. It absorbes water but does not swell and contract the way vermiculite does so it adds air to a mix by preventing contraction as the mix dries.
Peatmoss is a tried and true organic filler for mixes. It is relatively inexpensive, long lasting, holds water well and loosely binds nutrients, but it is acidic and needs a bit of powdered lime or dolomite to buffer its acidity as it ages. The main problem is that it is hydrophobic and does not wet easily. Compost, vermiculite and perlite mixed in with it help with this problem.
I'm growing plants in containers as well. Instead of the peat moss I used coco peat, a fermented peat of coco shells. It makes a far better structure in the soil. However I use it only in a mix. The surface of soil and 1 or 2 inches below are to dry when using it separatly. Mixed up with a bit of compost and some potting soil it works very fine. ( approximately 40% of the coco peat, 40%of the potting soil and 20% compost) You will have a nice structure, the soil absorbs enough water and has enough nutrients.
Regards, Annemieke
Regards, Annemieke
For aeration purposes coarse Perlite is the way to go. Perlite is as mentioned before a expanded volcanic glass that is inorganic. The smaller the particle the more it absorbs water, less aeration. Larger particle more aeration less absorption.
Vermiculite is a expanded mica. It absorbs better than Perlite but as mentioned it become squishy when saturated loosing it's aeration capabilities. Hence the reason most good potting soils use both together.
Neither have any nutrient value. Although they both have a neutral Ph and are sterile.
Peat would give you your nutrients or you can us a compost.
Here is a couple good reads if your really interested in learning their purpose.
Perlite-https://www.perlite.info/hbk/pg03-2.htm
Vermiculite-https://www.schundler.com/hort.htm
Vermiculite is a expanded mica. It absorbs better than Perlite but as mentioned it become squishy when saturated loosing it's aeration capabilities. Hence the reason most good potting soils use both together.
Neither have any nutrient value. Although they both have a neutral Ph and are sterile.
Peat would give you your nutrients or you can us a compost.
Here is a couple good reads if your really interested in learning their purpose.
Perlite-https://www.perlite.info/hbk/pg03-2.htm
Vermiculite-https://www.schundler.com/hort.htm