I have both my tomato plants right next to each other and only one looks like this, the edges are brown and crispy. when I water I don't splash and I haven't used any foliar sprays or anything... any ideas?
[img]https://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/NxOxOxDxLxExS/IMG_0139.jpg[/img]
its even like this higher up on the plant not just the base
[img]https://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/NxOxOxDxLxExS/IMG_0143.jpg[/img]
the white is the sun reflecting
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noodles777
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- Location: southern calif
I wish I could see the leafs closer... Do they look like this:
https://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/images/plantpath/colorslide/early_blight_leaf_large.jpg
Or like this:
https://plantdiagnostics.umd.edu/_media/client/diagnostics/fullsize/early_blight_spots_l.jpg
If so, this maybe an Early Blight? I'm sure someone else can look at these as well... Best of luck!
Regards,
D
https://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/images/plantpath/colorslide/early_blight_leaf_large.jpg
Or like this:
https://plantdiagnostics.umd.edu/_media/client/diagnostics/fullsize/early_blight_spots_l.jpg
If so, this maybe an Early Blight? I'm sure someone else can look at these as well... Best of luck!
Regards,
D
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noodles777
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- Location: southern calif
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rainbowgardener
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Oh man... that seems like over kill, for plants that don't look that bad.
If you are thinking it might be some kind of blight or wilt (I.e. fungal condition), before you get rid of it, try the milk treatment. Take off and dispose of any bad leaves (like the ones in top picture - DON"T put in compost pile, trash them). Dilute milk to 50:50 with water. Add a tablespoon of yoghurt with active cultures and let sit at room temperature for a few hrs. (You are culturing lactobacillus.) Strain and spray the whole plant including undersides of leaves.
Worked like a charm on my tomatoes that I'm pretty sure were starting to get late blight last year.
If you have other tomato plants that still look ok, you can dilute the milk a bit more and spray it on the other ones preventatively to help keep the fungus from spreading.
If you are thinking it might be some kind of blight or wilt (I.e. fungal condition), before you get rid of it, try the milk treatment. Take off and dispose of any bad leaves (like the ones in top picture - DON"T put in compost pile, trash them). Dilute milk to 50:50 with water. Add a tablespoon of yoghurt with active cultures and let sit at room temperature for a few hrs. (You are culturing lactobacillus.) Strain and spray the whole plant including undersides of leaves.
Worked like a charm on my tomatoes that I'm pretty sure were starting to get late blight last year.
If you have other tomato plants that still look ok, you can dilute the milk a bit more and spray it on the other ones preventatively to help keep the fungus from spreading.
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noodles777
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- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 2:37 pm
- Location: southern calif
ok thanks for the help!! I will try to salvage it I only have 2 tomato plants I don't have much room and I spent forever deciding the 2 I would try this season one is green zebra and the other is yellow pear, I don't want to get rid of either one!! I'm not even sure which one is which actually the sticker was on the pot and after I potted them. . .man... I'm so bumed, I swear everytime there's something!
Oh, sorry, didn't realize these were the only two you have! My main concern was for it not to spread on the others - this on can spread, and quickly!
Try this milk solution as RG suggests, I used more diluted as preventative measures last year with great success.
Best of luck with saving theses!
Regards,
D
Try this milk solution as RG suggests, I used more diluted as preventative measures last year with great success.
Best of luck with saving theses!
Regards,
D
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Gary350
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- Location: TN. 50 years of gardening experience.
Remember last year the whole country had a tomato blight problem. I read blight stays in the soil and you can have it again year after year. You should not plant tomatoes in the same place you had them planted last year. There are several things you can put in the soil to stop blight one is copper sulfate. I don't want to eat any copper sulfate so last year I refused to use it and all my tomato plants were dead by late July. I tried several other things to save my tomatoes last summer but nothing worked. I think this may be a good heads up notice for everyone we may all have blight again this year.
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rainbowgardener
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"Causal Organism
Late blight is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans. Unlike most pathogenic fungi, the late blight fungus cannot survive in soil or dead plant debris. For an epidemic to begin in any one area, the fungus must survive the winter in potato tubers (culls, volunteers), be reintroduced on seed potatoes or tomato transplants, or live spores must blow in with rainstorms. Disease development is favored by cool, moist weather. Nights in the 50's and days in the 70's accompanied by rain, fog or heavy dew are ideal. Under these conditions, lesions may appear on leaves within 3-5 days of infection, followed by the white mold growth soon thereafter. Spores formed on the mold are spread readily by irrigation, rain and equipment. They are easily dislodged by wind and rain and can be blown into neighboring fields within 5-10 miles or more, thus beginning another cycle of disease."
https://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3102.html
The reason it is LATE blight is that it does not over winter and so has to get started all over again by being blown or transported in from warmer winter areas.
OP's pics do not look like late blight. More like maybe a wilt or bacterial problem. Late blight makes
"Large water-soaked lesions which become black with white sporulation on the margin of lesion, usually on lower surface but occasionally on upper leaf surface; appear beige in color once lesions dry out in hot weather"
https://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/diagnostickeys/TomLeaf/TomLeafKey.html
Lesion meaning one specific zone or area of the leaf, not the whole leaf and it doesn't tend to make the leaves wilt or curl (at least not until it has progressed very far)
Late blight is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans. Unlike most pathogenic fungi, the late blight fungus cannot survive in soil or dead plant debris. For an epidemic to begin in any one area, the fungus must survive the winter in potato tubers (culls, volunteers), be reintroduced on seed potatoes or tomato transplants, or live spores must blow in with rainstorms. Disease development is favored by cool, moist weather. Nights in the 50's and days in the 70's accompanied by rain, fog or heavy dew are ideal. Under these conditions, lesions may appear on leaves within 3-5 days of infection, followed by the white mold growth soon thereafter. Spores formed on the mold are spread readily by irrigation, rain and equipment. They are easily dislodged by wind and rain and can be blown into neighboring fields within 5-10 miles or more, thus beginning another cycle of disease."
https://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3102.html
The reason it is LATE blight is that it does not over winter and so has to get started all over again by being blown or transported in from warmer winter areas.
OP's pics do not look like late blight. More like maybe a wilt or bacterial problem. Late blight makes
"Large water-soaked lesions which become black with white sporulation on the margin of lesion, usually on lower surface but occasionally on upper leaf surface; appear beige in color once lesions dry out in hot weather"
https://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/diagnostickeys/TomLeaf/TomLeafKey.html
Lesion meaning one specific zone or area of the leaf, not the whole leaf and it doesn't tend to make the leaves wilt or curl (at least not until it has progressed very far)