Thanks, y'all. =) I do have a plan. The last frost date for this year is from April 15th to 23rd (depending upon source). Late in March, I am going to put the plants outside in a cold frame I recently purchased. I have some heat mats and a thermometer for it which should help with this process.
- Steve
- tn_veggie_gardner
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- Location: Hermitage, TN.
- seagullplayer
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- gixxerific
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It's not an actual "race" just for fun. It just has been kind of evolving, I would think this is a common thing on garden forums. Now why didn't I join a few years ago, could someone tell me this. I have been gardening by myself all this time, I've been lonely.
I don't think I have any early tom's some mediums though but I have:
Brandywine, Amish Paste, Giant Syrian, Kumato, Black From Tula, Cherokee Purple, Spiridonovskie (Notice my nickaname is the middle of that one it was made for me ), Black Cherry, Isis Candy Cherry (which I have on miles ahead of all my others).
Again good luck to all of us, not for the race just for a good season, well the race too.
I don't think I have any early tom's some mediums though but I have:
Brandywine, Amish Paste, Giant Syrian, Kumato, Black From Tula, Cherokee Purple, Spiridonovskie (Notice my nickaname is the middle of that one it was made for me ), Black Cherry, Isis Candy Cherry (which I have on miles ahead of all my others).
Again good luck to all of us, not for the race just for a good season, well the race too.
- applestar
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- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I've split out the posts contributing to the [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=112524#112524]Tomato Race[/url] from the First seeds for 2010 - Planted! thread. Post any further updates and comments [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21904]to the new thread[/url] please.
Gixx, of course you had to go and post here about the race while I was working on the splitting process . Your post got left behind, so [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=112675#112675]I'll be copying it as a quote over there[/url], unless you want to go ahead and re-post.
Gixx, of course you had to go and post here about the race while I was working on the splitting process . Your post got left behind, so [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=112675#112675]I'll be copying it as a quote over there[/url], unless you want to go ahead and re-post.
- Sage Hermit
- Green Thumb
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- Location: Finlaysen, MN Coniferous Forest
- Ozark Lady
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1862
- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:28 pm
- Location: NW Arkansas, USA zone 7A elevation 1561 feet
Okay, first tomato seeds are now in the seedling mix.
I started:
6 oxheart
9 Pink Brandywine
6 Hillbilly
6 Rutgers
6 Ponderosa Pink
7 Belgium Giant
13 Red Brandywine
7 Peach Blow Sutton
6 Old German
7 Yellow Stuffer
12 Cherokee Purple
14 Beefsteak
7 Burpees long keepers
7 Grueso
6 Liberty Bell
8 seeds saved from my garden
6 OSU Blue
6 Delicious
My goal was 6 per type per vendor. I had some from multiple places, and wanted to compare the germination, vigor etc.
I still have alot of pepper and tomato to get started, but I am out of room, until some of these germinate....
Give me a couple days for the oldest ones to germinate.
It still feels too early.... But, I always end up with tiny little plants when I start them when it "feels" right. So, maybe it better learn to "feel" right alot sooner in the year!
I even sometimes, simply direct sow the tomato seeds in the garden.
Does anyone else do this? I have had mixed results with it... I need to document it and keep records.
I started:
6 oxheart
9 Pink Brandywine
6 Hillbilly
6 Rutgers
6 Ponderosa Pink
7 Belgium Giant
13 Red Brandywine
7 Peach Blow Sutton
6 Old German
7 Yellow Stuffer
12 Cherokee Purple
14 Beefsteak
7 Burpees long keepers
7 Grueso
6 Liberty Bell
8 seeds saved from my garden
6 OSU Blue
6 Delicious
My goal was 6 per type per vendor. I had some from multiple places, and wanted to compare the germination, vigor etc.
I still have alot of pepper and tomato to get started, but I am out of room, until some of these germinate....
Give me a couple days for the oldest ones to germinate.
It still feels too early.... But, I always end up with tiny little plants when I start them when it "feels" right. So, maybe it better learn to "feel" right alot sooner in the year!
I even sometimes, simply direct sow the tomato seeds in the garden.
Does anyone else do this? I have had mixed results with it... I need to document it and keep records.
Nice list!
Do you have a specific name for the Oxeheart variety (there are hundreds variations...)
Cherokee Purple is definitely one of our favorites, and Yellow Stuffer - was a nice surprise, great stuffing tomato with pleasant tangy taste that balances well with what ever you fill it with, productive too, I think you will like it!
Regards,
D
Do you have a specific name for the Oxeheart variety (there are hundreds variations...)
Cherokee Purple is definitely one of our favorites, and Yellow Stuffer - was a nice surprise, great stuffing tomato with pleasant tangy taste that balances well with what ever you fill it with, productive too, I think you will like it!
Regards,
D
- Ozark Lady
- Greener Thumb
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- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:28 pm
- Location: NW Arkansas, USA zone 7A elevation 1561 feet
My tomatoes, peppers, and, eggplants are 5 days old (almost) and none have sprouted . Last year, I gave them an over-night soak and let them sit in front of the window with cellophane over their tops. I had toms in 3 days.
This year, they got only about a 7 hr soak and have no cellophane. Also, they are in a cooler area; well, some are in a cooler area (tomatoes) while others are in a warmer area (peppers). the pepper flat has a weak bottom heat below it, but I'm not sure if it is strong (hot) enough.
I'm worrying about the seeds rotting, but I think that if I get germination within two weeks, I should still be good. Since this is the firs time the seeds will be grown under lights, I'm a little more nervous. Waiting for seeds to sprout is worse than waiting to open presents on your birthday. At least then you know when you can open them!
Oh, well, perhaps today or tomorrow........or the next day.
Good luck with your seedlings, all.
This year, they got only about a 7 hr soak and have no cellophane. Also, they are in a cooler area; well, some are in a cooler area (tomatoes) while others are in a warmer area (peppers). the pepper flat has a weak bottom heat below it, but I'm not sure if it is strong (hot) enough.
I'm worrying about the seeds rotting, but I think that if I get germination within two weeks, I should still be good. Since this is the firs time the seeds will be grown under lights, I'm a little more nervous. Waiting for seeds to sprout is worse than waiting to open presents on your birthday. At least then you know when you can open them!
Oh, well, perhaps today or tomorrow........or the next day.
Good luck with your seedlings, all.
- gixxerific
- Super Green Thumb
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- gixxerific
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5889
- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:42 pm
- Location: Wentzville, MO (Just West oF St. Louis) Zone 5B
G5 what D_V said is right. I have some peppers that have been up a while while in the same pellet there is just now new sprouts coming up. Same with my tomatoes I potted up a tom today that had a microscopic of sorts sprout coming in. Peppers take a while to get going. So hold on it will come. I have a bunch of stuff down here that I thought would never sprout and it finally is, so be patient.
- rainbowgardener
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- Location: TN/GA 7b
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- Senior Member
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- Location: GEORGIA,USA
- Ozark Lady
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1862
- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:28 pm
- Location: NW Arkansas, USA zone 7A elevation 1561 feet
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- Full Member
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Geee. now you really made me look bad My tomato seeds took about 2.5 weeks to sprout. Jalapeno is still getting out (4 weeks) ... I'm not playing with any of you... will go find my own competition
so, T8 lights, ha? already looking for one . BTW, is that the one that is in luck of blue spectrum? what can I use to supplement one?
Thanks.
Great Photos, Great tips, Great selections - jealous
so, T8 lights, ha? already looking for one . BTW, is that the one that is in luck of blue spectrum? what can I use to supplement one?
Thanks.
Great Photos, Great tips, Great selections - jealous
I'll bet that you did not use bottom heat. This is really important for peppers as they like the soil to be from 70 to 75 degrees F. I had to take mine off of bottom heat due to poor air circulation in that are, so only about half have germinated. It's good to know that I can still get germination even after a month. None of my jalapenos have sprouted yet, so they must be a longer germinating variety (or my save seeds could just be bad ).toxicburn1 wrote:Geee. now you really made me look bad My tomato seeds took about 2.5 weeks to sprout. Jalapeno is still getting out (4 weeks) ... I'm not playing with any of you... will go find my own competition
so, T8 lights, ha? already looking for one . BTW, is that the one that is in luck of blue spectrum? what can I use to supplement one?
Thanks.
Great Photos, Great tips, Great selections - jealous
For bottom heat, a heating pad works great, but make sure that it does not have automatic shut off....very frustrating. Once they sprout, take them off of the heat. You can also water them with hot (not boiling) tap water to keep the soil temperature up.
As far as T-8 lights go, you can pick one up at walmart for less than $15. There are bulbs for them in all different light spectrum. You want you bulbs to be 6000k or 6500k. This is the "cool" spectrum and will promote leaf and stem growth instead of bud and flower growth. There is also some debate as to using one cool bulb and one warm bulb in the same fixture, but you get two to a pack, so why not just go with cool?
Happy Gardening.
- gixxerific
- Super Green Thumb
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- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:42 pm
- Location: Wentzville, MO (Just West oF St. Louis) Zone 5B
- applestar
- Mod
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- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
FINALLY got some photos uploaded (light fixtures were raised for better photo angle)
June Race nominations (aside from the Contender):
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6524.jpg[/img]
Main Tomato starts:
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6525.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6529.jpg[/img] [img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6538.jpg[/img]
June Race nominations (aside from the Contender):
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6524.jpg[/img]
Main Tomato starts:
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6525.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6529.jpg[/img] [img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/Image6538.jpg[/img]
- hendi_alex
- Super Green Thumb
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- Location: Central Sand Hills South Carolina
- Alan in Vermont
- Senior Member
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:20 pm
- Location: Northwest Vermont, Champlain Valley
I got started on my seed flats on Sunday. I'm planting in cell trays instead of in starter trays and transplanting into cells. I'm having to work one-handed this year and there was no way I could see to make transplanting do-able. I'm setting two seeds in each cell so there should be at least one plant break ground.
So far;
144 cells of Walla Walla onions.
6 varieties of tomatoes at 8 cells each
24 cells of cauliflower.
Still have sweet peppers to start and maybe a couple more varieties of toms. If the weather hols as it has been I'm hoping to get the tractor out and start shaping the hills for my vine crops. Once those are laid out I have 50-60 yds. of wood chip mulch to spread around then to suppress weed growth.
So far;
144 cells of Walla Walla onions.
6 varieties of tomatoes at 8 cells each
24 cells of cauliflower.
Still have sweet peppers to start and maybe a couple more varieties of toms. If the weather hols as it has been I'm hoping to get the tractor out and start shaping the hills for my vine crops. Once those are laid out I have 50-60 yds. of wood chip mulch to spread around then to suppress weed growth.