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Farmer Dave
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What can be done to stop Blossum end rot?

I would like some suggestions on how to stop blossom end rot. I heard even watering would help and have been using a drip system and timer so that is not it. I know it is a calcium issue and just read a post by someone suggesting lots of lime, so I will try that. What else do you know about it?

To much rot for the pot :cry:
I am raising my family on a permaculture homestead in Northern California. I like to shares my knowledge and passion for organic home gardening.

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cynthia_h
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BER is frustrating, for sure. We've had many discussions about it, both in the Organic sections of Helpful Gardener and in other areas here, too.

Check out the "Search the Forum" function at the top of the page. Put the phrase

blossom end rot

in the search box.

If you want your results restricted in any way, put your chosen restrictions in the boxes provided, and hit Search. I didn't give any restrictions in my test Search just now and got 213 results. You might want to narrow it down after seeing what the full results look like. :wink:

Good luck! :)

Cynthia
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

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rainbowgardener
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Agree with cynthia -- check Search the Forum and do some reading, what's been written here already.

Here's one thread to start you out:
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=86031&highlight=blossom+end+rot#86031

BER is a calcium deficiency, but it is rarely caused by lack of calcium in the soil. It is caused by stress affecting the plant's ability to uptake the calcium. So adding calcium to the soil isn't really dealing with the problem. You need to figure out what is stressing the plant and deal with that.

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Kisal
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Doesn't the pH of the soil contribute somewhat to the plant's inability to absorb sufficient calcium from the soil? I know that's the case with certain other species of plants, but I'm not sure about tomatoes, per se.
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JONA878
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BER is a major problem for growers who use grow bags or have root restriction in hot weather.
The trouble arises when the top of the plant is losing water faster through transporation than the roots can replace it.
Calcium is a very poor mover in plants at the best of times. As any fruit grower knows with Bitter Pit in apples, even those that are growing on chalk soils.
It usually only affects the lower trusses of the plant as they are at a point when the plant is growing the most strongly.
Commercial growers use several ways of trying to combat it.
First is to not let the plant get too strong in its growth before the first truss is setting, even if this means not planting from the growing pot to the final bed site until first flower.
Secondly useing very light nitrogen until first set and no pot.nit. until truss 1 &2 are setting well.
The important thing is to try to keep the root system and the top of the plant in balance.
If you have a very strong growing plant and its roots are constrained or stressed for some reason then in hot weather BER will happen.
Also helps, if you grow your toms on the same site every time, to make sure that you give the area a very heavy flushing between crops as salt levels from fert applications can restrict root uptake quite severly.

Jona
An apple a day.....keeps me in work.

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Farmer Dave
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Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:15 am
Location: California

great advise

thanks for all the good advise especially looking into old posts, lots of info already here. Just learning my way around
I am raising my family on a permaculture homestead in Northern California. I like to shares my knowledge and passion for organic home gardening.

https://www.family-gardens.com
See you there
Farmer Dave

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