I'm in Arizona, about 3500 ft, zone 7, but I'm told my location is very unique when it comes to gardening.
Here's the scoop on my 'maters:
Heirlooms:
1 Red Beefsteak
2 Pink Brandywine
2 Soldacki
2 Black krim
1 Mr. Stripey
Hybrids:
1 Celebrity
1 Roma
1 Sweet 100
1 "unknown"
Everything is planted in containers. Most of the containers are large (half barrel size).
According to my gardener friends, I got a VERY early head start with my tomatoes.
The best performer thus far is the Black Krim.
Both my plants are loaded with large tomatoes and I've already eaten several of them. Delicious is an understatement. Smokey, earthy, with a bit of tang and the texture of a melt in your mouth steak.
The only glitch is that one of the Krim seems to have gotten a disease and is dieing off rapidly. It managed to load up with about 30 toms before starting to get really sick.
In second place in terms of production is the Beefsteak. Still extremely healthy, and completely weighted down with large fruit. These are beautiful and uniform looking tomatoes. Sweet flavor, and beautiful juicy slices. These guys are the Super-T in BLT.
With the AZ heat, some of the smaller fruit are going into "let's ripen now" overdrive.
In terms of production and early ripening, the Celebrity did pretty well.
It gave me my first tomato, and loaded up early and heavily.
Then some kind of blight set in and it promptly died off. I got about 3 large toms, and about 20 medium sized (tennis ball and under) fruits
out of it before is wilted away. The taste was rather bland, but still good for tacos...
In other news:
The Soldacki got huge. It's a very healthy plant. Tons of flowers. But in the end, both plants have only put out a couple of fruit at this point. None of the tomatoes are ripe yet. They are very large tomatoes though. Unless the Soldacki turns out to amazing in the taste category, I don't plan on doing it next year.
The Pink Brandywine has been underwhelming. Extremely disappointing. Not in taste mind you, because nothing has ripened yet. In terms of production, however, I think I'm looking at about 6 tomatoes between two plants. The plants themselves, much like the Soldacki, are huge, healthy, and covered with flowers. Just very few tomatoes.
A few of my local gardening friends have told me they've had the same problems year after year with the Brandywine. So, unless it's an out-of-this-world taste, it's a no go for next year.
Mr. Stripey looked promising early on. It set up with about 10 tomatoes early, and they got huge. Then the blight that his attacked my garden got the Stripey also. The plant went from healthy to very sick in about 2 weeks. The 10 toms got huge, but just seemed to sit on the dead plant forever, not ripening. Eventually sun scald starting getting to them (leaves all dried up and gone), so I picked them green and brought them inside. They're slowly starting to ripen, but a lot of the sun damage is apparent. One of the fruit actually looked ripe to me the other day, so I sliced it up, added salt and pepper, ...and the taste was spectacularly bland. I couldn't finish it. More to follow on this guy.
The hybrid big box Roma's have also been disappointing. The tomatoes are more like plum style fruit than Roma and are very small. Though the plant is prolific, the fruit are much smaller than I expected. Completely dry and without flavor once taste tested. Not even a good paste candidate. Thumbs down.
Sweet 100. Another somewhat disappointing plant. Again, a huge plant, but tiny little fruit. I'll need to find a better cherry tomato variety next year. A positive note: I like to sun dry my cherries, and these turned out pretty nice. The small fruit size makes for a one day sun dry instead of 2 or 3 days.
The "unknown" tomato plant went into my topsy turvey earlier this year. A good producer, and a decent taste. Small fruit (golf ball to tennis ball). I wish I could remember what the variety was. Definitely a hybrid, but I can't remember...
The topsy turvey was for the kids. Whatever the plant is, it's too leggy for a hanging pot. Next year I'll do compact bush tomato variety.
So, keepers for next year (so far):
Black Krim, Beefsteak, and Celebrity.
I may give the Mr. Stripey another try, just because it was unfairly hit with disease early and hard.
If the Soldacki and Brandywine manage to come on strong late (and taste great), I'll try again, but otherewise something else will take they're place next year.
Definitely gone:
Sweet 100
"Big box" Roma
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rainbowgardener
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Thanks very much for the detailed report! Since I have very limited space and only grow 4 to at most 6 tomato plants each year, I have aways just stuck to Early Girl for having the first tomatoes on the block, and some kind of beefsteak (Better Boy, Big Beef, etc). On your recommendation I may try to find the Black Krim next year. Keep us updated on how this all turns out!
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The Helpful Gardener
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Thanks for the listing, Rob. I agree with most of your assessments; and suspect this may be the last year for Brandywines for me too, but I don't know if I can pass on that flavor... Black Krim was disease prone for me when I tried it last year, but I suspect I have more fungal pressure than you (you're just a TOUCH drier... 
) so non this year; back to Cherokee Purples for dark ones (doing great).
Suprised about the Sweet Hundreds; I have a great fruit set on mine already, and some already quarter sized around (planted last week of April, despite all my friends telling me I was nuts; who's crazy now?) Not sure if you got good plants; I have seen some "current" type tomatoes this year and wonder if some unscrupulous grower tag grafted thme as 100's to sell them...I have ALWAYS had good luck with that plant...
Heirlooms have become the rage, but your experiences bring to light one downside to these oldtimers; they were from BEFORE disease resistance breeding was a big deal. The later hybrids were done with just the opposite in mind; not so much emphasis on flaor and more on survival. Now if we can just combine the two...
HG
) so non this year; back to Cherokee Purples for dark ones (doing great).Suprised about the Sweet Hundreds; I have a great fruit set on mine already, and some already quarter sized around (planted last week of April, despite all my friends telling me I was nuts; who's crazy now?) Not sure if you got good plants; I have seen some "current" type tomatoes this year and wonder if some unscrupulous grower tag grafted thme as 100's to sell them...I have ALWAYS had good luck with that plant...
Heirlooms have become the rage, but your experiences bring to light one downside to these oldtimers; they were from BEFORE disease resistance breeding was a big deal. The later hybrids were done with just the opposite in mind; not so much emphasis on flaor and more on survival. Now if we can just combine the two...
HG
I'm going to try some kind of Early variety in the upside down hanging pot next year.rainbowgardener wrote:Thanks very much for the detailed report! Since I have very limited space and only grow 4 to at most 6 tomato plants each year, I have aways just stuck to Early Girl for having the first tomatoes on the block, and some kind of beefsteak (Better Boy, Big Beef, etc). On your recommendation I may try to find the Black Krim next year. Keep us updated on how this all turns out!
I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Black Krim. In fact, I took several Krim's to work last week, sliced them up, and had my co-workers try them.
All week now, all I've heard is: "When are you bringing some more of those black tomatoes in?"
I'm pretty sad about the Brandywine. I can't believe that a plant can get that big with that many flowers and only put out a couple 'maters.The Helpful Gardener wrote:Thanks for the listing, Rob. I agree with most of your assessments; and suspect this may be the last year for Brandywines for me too, but I don't know if I can pass on that flavor... Black Krim was disease prone for me when I tried it last year, but I suspect I have more fungal pressure than you (you're just a TOUCH drier...
Suprised about the Sweet Hundreds; I have a great fruit set on mine already, and some already quarter sized around (planted last week of April, despite all my friends telling me I was nuts; who's crazy now?) Not sure if you got good plants; I have seen some "current" type tomatoes this year and wonder if some unscrupulous grower tag grafted thme as 100's to sell them...I have ALWAYS had good luck with that plant...
Heirlooms have become the rage, but your experiences bring to light one downside to these oldtimers; they were from BEFORE disease resistance breeding was a big deal. The later hybrids were done with just the opposite in mind; not so much emphasis on flaor and more on survival. Now if we can just combine the two...
HG
The one black krim started out with a bang, got as tall as a man, promptly hatched a bunch of fruit, and then rather suddenly started to die. Each morning I go out and it looks like a hard frost has hit a new portion of it. No yellowing, just abruptly dead.
I'll have to find a good distributor for the Cherokee Purple. I tried a batch from seed this year and they'd sprout out and then die off fast. Not a single plant made it. Probably something I did wrong, but maybe not. I DEFINITELY want to try again next year. Any recommendations?
As you alluded to, I suspect that my supposed "Sweet 100" has some currant variety or something in it.
Most of the fruit are the size of a plump blueberry. I never got anywhere near quarter size on a single tomato.
Interestingly, as far as disease goes, the "disease resistant" hybrid Celebrity was the first to get a disease. It looked like the mojo had hit it hard pretty early on. Then it just went south from there.
Then Mr. Stripey got sick.
Then the Black Krim (totally different symptoms than the Celeb and Stripey though).
I'm 90% sure the disease stuff was my fault. I've used the same container soil for 3 years now. Last year I had some disease showing up.
I never sterilized the soil at all, just reused it.
I also got my pots and containers from a local nursery. They were used. I have no idea what was in those containers previously, or what kind of diseases. I never sterilized them before using them.
I've definitely learned my lesson.
Incidentally...
Being in Arizona, and having an incredibly long growing season, I'm fixin' to put another round of tomatoes in containers (with sterilized soil, of course).
I'm starting from plants.
1 Black Zebra
4 Caspian Pink
And I also ordered a mix that is supposed to be four different heirloom tomato plants. I won't know the variety until the package arrives in the mail.
I'll keep ya'll posted on how all this works out.
Being in Arizona, and having an incredibly long growing season, I'm fixin' to put another round of tomatoes in containers (with sterilized soil, of course).
I'm starting from plants.
1 Black Zebra
4 Caspian Pink
And I also ordered a mix that is supposed to be four different heirloom tomato plants. I won't know the variety until the package arrives in the mail.
I'll keep ya'll posted on how all this works out.
Judging by an Internet "map" and my Sunset Western Garden Book, Cottonwood (AZ) is located in Sunset climate zone 10: "High Desert Areas of Arizona and New Mexico."
Reading the characteristics of Sunset climate zone 10 together with Sunset's statement (p. 635) that "[Large-fruited tomatoes] grow to full size in areas where both days and nights are warm," I'm going to suggest that perhaps the nights in Cottonwood are *not* warm due to the dry air and the elevation. The heat of each day dissipates each night; this may be why specific varieties of tomato haven't performed well in high desert vs. areas like Pennsylvania or even the Ukraine (Black Krim).
Many varieties of tomato which flourish in hot, humid climates, where heat is maintained overnight--and for several weeks at a time--will not flourish in my yard or nearby gardens b/c of the absence of heat build-up. I suspect that in dry, elevated areas, where heat must build up anew each day, the result is similar.
It's not a judgment on any individual gardener or his/her skills; it's a fact of gardening life that we can't always grow the *exact* plants we'd like to grow. I would dearly *love* to grow Garnet yams (= sweet potato), but they require soil temps over 75 deg. F for six weeks straight.
So Garnets are "no go" for me, but now I'm grow regular potatoes and love freshly dug spuds.
(I have to buy the Garnets, though.)
I've lived in the Southeast (12 years total); I know what the air temp and humidity feel like when the soil is ≥ 75 deg. F. for six weeks....
or more.... 
San Marzano tomatoes also do not succeed for me due to the specific conditions (micro-climate) of my yard. Therefore, this year, I'm trying Stupice and a few other varieties developed in cooler climates in the hopes that they *will* succeed for me.
Maybe some of this info will help shed light; even Sunset recommends talking to County extension agents for suggestions on varieties of plants suitable to one's particular climate / terrain / precipitation / soil.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Reading the characteristics of Sunset climate zone 10 together with Sunset's statement (p. 635) that "[Large-fruited tomatoes] grow to full size in areas where both days and nights are warm," I'm going to suggest that perhaps the nights in Cottonwood are *not* warm due to the dry air and the elevation. The heat of each day dissipates each night; this may be why specific varieties of tomato haven't performed well in high desert vs. areas like Pennsylvania or even the Ukraine (Black Krim).
Many varieties of tomato which flourish in hot, humid climates, where heat is maintained overnight--and for several weeks at a time--will not flourish in my yard or nearby gardens b/c of the absence of heat build-up. I suspect that in dry, elevated areas, where heat must build up anew each day, the result is similar.
It's not a judgment on any individual gardener or his/her skills; it's a fact of gardening life that we can't always grow the *exact* plants we'd like to grow. I would dearly *love* to grow Garnet yams (= sweet potato), but they require soil temps over 75 deg. F for six weeks straight.
So Garnets are "no go" for me, but now I'm grow regular potatoes and love freshly dug spuds.
(I have to buy the Garnets, though.)I've lived in the Southeast (12 years total); I know what the air temp and humidity feel like when the soil is ≥ 75 deg. F. for six weeks....
or more.... San Marzano tomatoes also do not succeed for me due to the specific conditions (micro-climate) of my yard. Therefore, this year, I'm trying Stupice and a few other varieties developed in cooler climates in the hopes that they *will* succeed for me.
Maybe some of this info will help shed light; even Sunset recommends talking to County extension agents for suggestions on varieties of plants suitable to one's particular climate / terrain / precipitation / soil.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
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The Helpful Gardener
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Update, 07-22-2009
The Arizona heat has hit hard and heavy.
It's been dry and hot (100+ F), lot's of sun, up until a week ago.
The monsoons that have rolled in have cooled things down considerably, and provided some moisture. The garden seems to be bouncing back a little bit.
Cynthia, I really appreciate the information.
However, when I check my location on the National Arboretum USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map I'm at a 7 or 8.
Perhaps I'm not using the correct map.
Also, there are two Cottonwoods in Arizona.
Perhaps the other one is Zone 10.
At night the temps rarely get under 70 during the summer. I honestly don't think cool nights are the problem. Are you saying that maybe it's the temps swings that are aggravating my Krims, along with humidity fluctuations? hmmm, maybe so.
Heirlooms:
1 Red Beefsteak. Did really well. Stopped producing with the heat, but seems to be springing back a little as the afternoon rains cool things down. Not my favorite flavor at all. Too sweet for my taste. I like a little tang and a little smokey flavor...
2 Pink Brandywine. So far I've had one tomato ripen. It was indeed very good. The plants seem to be taking the heat better than the other plants. Hmmmmm. There's potential here.
2 Soldacki: Several HUGE ripe tomatoes that have disappointed when it comes to taste. Although the size of each tomato is spectacular, the taste is extremely bland and even a bit off setting. I will NOT be growing Soldacki again next year. Not my kind of 'mater.
2 Black Krim: A huge and early producer that tastes amazing. Probably the best tasting slicer I've ever had. A few issues: both my plants hated the hot days and seemed susceptible to disease after a mighty initial burst. They seem extremely sensitive to sun scald, and with their thin skins, have a weak defense against common bugs trying to get into the sweet innards. I recommend early sun screens for these beauties.
1 Mr. Stripey: I'll try it again. Hit early with a massive blight, it never had a chance. The one tomato that seemed to have ripened the most, was actually very, VERY tasty. I was pleasantly surprised.
Hybrids:
1 Celebrity: I'll do it again.
1 Roma: No way. I'll be trying a better variety next year.
1 Sweet 100: Nope. Small little wanna be toms. Not for me.
As for my second season Tomatoes:
1 Black Zebra: so far so good. Growing strong after replant. I planted them in the shade of my Black Krim. Container.
2 Caspian Pink: Originally had 4. Down to two, because two died right away. The survivors are doing really well, and look healthy. Have them in a shady spot. Container.
1 Yellow Brandywine: Looks strong and healthy so far. In the ground.
1 Black from Tula: Shady spot. Looking good. Container.
1 Mortgage Lifter: Looks fine. In a nice shady spot. Container.
1 Amish Salad: Shade, container. Seems to be doing ok.
Supposedly the second season in the Verde Valley lasts until late October. We'll see how that goes.
More updates to follow.
The Arizona heat has hit hard and heavy.
It's been dry and hot (100+ F), lot's of sun, up until a week ago.
The monsoons that have rolled in have cooled things down considerably, and provided some moisture. The garden seems to be bouncing back a little bit.
Cynthia, I really appreciate the information.
However, when I check my location on the National Arboretum USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map I'm at a 7 or 8.
Perhaps I'm not using the correct map.
Also, there are two Cottonwoods in Arizona.
Perhaps the other one is Zone 10.
At night the temps rarely get under 70 during the summer. I honestly don't think cool nights are the problem. Are you saying that maybe it's the temps swings that are aggravating my Krims, along with humidity fluctuations? hmmm, maybe so.
Heirlooms:
1 Red Beefsteak. Did really well. Stopped producing with the heat, but seems to be springing back a little as the afternoon rains cool things down. Not my favorite flavor at all. Too sweet for my taste. I like a little tang and a little smokey flavor...
2 Pink Brandywine. So far I've had one tomato ripen. It was indeed very good. The plants seem to be taking the heat better than the other plants. Hmmmmm. There's potential here.
2 Soldacki: Several HUGE ripe tomatoes that have disappointed when it comes to taste. Although the size of each tomato is spectacular, the taste is extremely bland and even a bit off setting. I will NOT be growing Soldacki again next year. Not my kind of 'mater.
2 Black Krim: A huge and early producer that tastes amazing. Probably the best tasting slicer I've ever had. A few issues: both my plants hated the hot days and seemed susceptible to disease after a mighty initial burst. They seem extremely sensitive to sun scald, and with their thin skins, have a weak defense against common bugs trying to get into the sweet innards. I recommend early sun screens for these beauties.
1 Mr. Stripey: I'll try it again. Hit early with a massive blight, it never had a chance. The one tomato that seemed to have ripened the most, was actually very, VERY tasty. I was pleasantly surprised.
Hybrids:
1 Celebrity: I'll do it again.
1 Roma: No way. I'll be trying a better variety next year.
1 Sweet 100: Nope. Small little wanna be toms. Not for me.
As for my second season Tomatoes:
1 Black Zebra: so far so good. Growing strong after replant. I planted them in the shade of my Black Krim. Container.
2 Caspian Pink: Originally had 4. Down to two, because two died right away. The survivors are doing really well, and look healthy. Have them in a shady spot. Container.
1 Yellow Brandywine: Looks strong and healthy so far. In the ground.
1 Black from Tula: Shady spot. Looking good. Container.
1 Mortgage Lifter: Looks fine. In a nice shady spot. Container.
1 Amish Salad: Shade, container. Seems to be doing ok.
Supposedly the second season in the Verde Valley lasts until late October. We'll see how that goes.
More updates to follow.
The Sunset climate zone is much more specific than the USDA Hardiness Zone. USDA zones only tell you what has a good chance of living through the winter. Sunset climate zones tell you what has the best chance of succeeding; they take precipitation, prevailing wind, elevation, hours of sunlight, regional and microclimate information, max. summer temps, min. winter temps, and a few other criteria into account.Rob wrote:Update, 07-22-2009
Cynthia, I really appreciate the information.
However, when I check my location on the National Arboretum USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map I'm at a 7 or 8.
Perhaps I'm not using the correct map.
Also, there are two Cottonwoods in Arizona.
Perhaps the other one is Zone 10.
Sunset climate zone 10, "High Desert Areas of Arizona and New Mexico," def. sounds like what you're describing: low humidity, big temp swings, etc.
Re. the varieties of tomato: Romas are *not* for eating out of hand. They're a cooking tomato. There's a discussion right now re. Romas, and (somewhere) I related my disappointing encounter with a fresh Roma back in Berkeley, salt shaker in hand.
If you don't plan to put up sauce, then yes Romas are a waste of your effort. But if you *do* plan to can/freeze tomato sauce, Romas will do a wonderful job for you.
Cynthia