Hi everyone,
This is my second year growing heirloom tomatoes. I am located in Long Island, and we have been getting quite a bit of rain lately. Recently, I noticed my Green Zebra variety plant started to get bumps at towards the bottom of the stalk, and turn brown. Some of the leaves/flowers at that part of the plant are dying as well. However, the plant seems to be growing, and healthy towards the top. I've included pictures to help illustrate what is going on.
[img]https://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/joelewko/P6200055.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/joelewko/P6200056.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/joelewko/P6200057.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m204/joelewko/P6200058.jpg[/img]
(It was drizzling when I took these that's why the plant looks wet)
I've noticed in the few days since I took these, the brown seems to be creeping towards the top of the plant. Has anyone ever experienced a problem like this? Is it due to too much rain? (If you guys need more pics just let me know I'll take some more).
I tried doing a quick search on the web for info about heirloom tomatoes, but information seems scarce.
Thanks,
Joe
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GardenerGirl
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It's not just an heirloom problem, I think. I don't know what it is, but I just noticed today that my Mountain Fresh hybrid tomato had something almost identical to that picture going on from its main stem. Mine is growing upside down, and it looks like it's happening along a run-off rivulet, which may support the too much rain theory.
I cannot help with cause, but here is more info, anyway?
I cannot help with cause, but here is more info, anyway?
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applestar
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The bumps are adventitious roots, nothing to worry about.
It was discussed in this thread: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15953
I'm more concerned about the dark streak that looks like it's going up the interior of the stem. There's dirt splashed up on the stem, which means you don't have the tomatoes mulched. Soil borne diseases can get splashed up under these conditions. I would trim and discard - not compost - all diseased leaves, spray with 10% milk solution, paying special attn to lower stems and underside of leaves, them mulch with a layer of compost and then a layer of grass clippings, straw, etc. on top. Spray again in 2~4 days.
Let us know how it looks then, or if things get progressively worse. It could be wilt, or blight that has gone systemic -- then I don't think you'll be able to save it.... That blackened leaf that's hanging down looks a bit ominous...
It was discussed in this thread: https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15953
I'm more concerned about the dark streak that looks like it's going up the interior of the stem. There's dirt splashed up on the stem, which means you don't have the tomatoes mulched. Soil borne diseases can get splashed up under these conditions. I would trim and discard - not compost - all diseased leaves, spray with 10% milk solution, paying special attn to lower stems and underside of leaves, them mulch with a layer of compost and then a layer of grass clippings, straw, etc. on top. Spray again in 2~4 days.
Let us know how it looks then, or if things get progressively worse. It could be wilt, or blight that has gone systemic -- then I don't think you'll be able to save it.... That blackened leaf that's hanging down looks a bit ominous...
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The Helpful Gardener
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- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:17 pm
- Location: Colchester, CT
Yep the milk trick is as you described, but it is far better as a preventative than a curative...
A lot of the splash up diseases start at the bottom and work up. Things like [url=https://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3122.html]fusarium and verticillium[/url] (got a squash plant on me this year) have been specifcally bred against for years and the newer hybrids have F or V or other ratings on them to show how they have been bred to resist these diseases. We take back years of breeding when we select heirloom varieties and need to be even more diligent with our plants when we grow them as they do not have the resistances we have come to expect.
I don't know if you are going to be able to stop this; you might consider yanking the plant and throwing it out (for once I DON'T want the greens to go to compost; into the garbage with this corpse). Sacrificing one to the benefit of the many to follow may help you eradicate this disease from your soil. Adding composts might help; better yet mulch with good compost and kill two birds with one stone...and milk AHEAD of the disease next time; we always need harsher anbd harsher stuff once the infection occurs....
Systemic fungicides should NEVER be used on food crops; chemical culture will just further damage your soil as well. Get your soil healthy and this will cease to be a problem...
HG
A lot of the splash up diseases start at the bottom and work up. Things like [url=https://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3122.html]fusarium and verticillium[/url] (got a squash plant on me this year) have been specifcally bred against for years and the newer hybrids have F or V or other ratings on them to show how they have been bred to resist these diseases. We take back years of breeding when we select heirloom varieties and need to be even more diligent with our plants when we grow them as they do not have the resistances we have come to expect.
I don't know if you are going to be able to stop this; you might consider yanking the plant and throwing it out (for once I DON'T want the greens to go to compost; into the garbage with this corpse). Sacrificing one to the benefit of the many to follow may help you eradicate this disease from your soil. Adding composts might help; better yet mulch with good compost and kill two birds with one stone...and milk AHEAD of the disease next time; we always need harsher anbd harsher stuff once the infection occurs....
Systemic fungicides should NEVER be used on food crops; chemical culture will just further damage your soil as well. Get your soil healthy and this will cease to be a problem...
HG