pepper4
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Rocks at the Bottom of Containers for Tomatoes?

I planted my tomatoes 2 days ago in large containers. I made sure there were plenty of drain holes in the bottom.
My neighbor just informed me I should of put rocks in the bottom. Is my lack of doing that going to lead to problems :?:

elevenplants
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No. I wouldn't think so. Rocks in the bottom are just to improve drainage anyway, so if you have plenty of holes you should be fine.

Rebecca

cynthia_h
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Two possibilities come to mind about "rocks in the bottom."

1) Placing rocks or hardware cloth over each drainage hole will help keep slugs/snails from invading the container. I've found the eggs of one or the other (can't tell 'em apart) on the exterior bottoms of my containers before, but *outside* the hardware cloth.

2) Placing a few inches of gravel or rocks in the bottom of a container is said to improve drainage. However, it also makes the container very heavy.

So...it depends on what your neighbor meant by "putting rocks in the bottom."

Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9

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Kisal
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I don't think it will be a problem for you, as long as you used a soil mixture that drains well and you've provided plenty of drainage holes. I certainly wouldn't uproot the plants just to add rocks to the bottom of the container.

pepper4
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She meant to put some small rocks or gravel on the bottom and then dirt which as you know I didn't do. I think there is adaquate drainage holes. No, I didn't want to uproot to add rocks but wasn't sure if I should or not. I lost my seedling that I tried indoors so I hope I didn't screw up with this. Thanks :!:
Last edited by pepper4 on Sun May 03, 2009 2:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

cynthia_h
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If the potting mix drains well, the plants will be OK. Maybe your neighbor uses native soil over a layer of rocks?

If so, she's most likely used to poor drainage, since many native soils don't drain well. (I fought against adobe clay in Berkeley for over 15 years.)

But if you have a light potting mix, you have good drainage.

Cynthia

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Kisal
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It will. I hardly ever bother putting rock in the bottom of plant containers anymore. In fact, unless the drainage holes are excessively large, I don't even bother putting anything over them.

The real key is whether the soil you used drains well. As long as it does, then all will be well. :)

pepper4
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Thanks cynthia and Kisal :wink:

Garry2009
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Hi Bambi:

I didn't use rocks or gravel in the bottom, either...just a loose soil mixture.

Garry

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Earl K
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Funny to see this post about rocks. I grow 90% of my veggies in containers .I started putting rocks in the bottom of all my buckets from the beds around the yard untill they started getting thin.So I had a not so bright idea, I live just a short drive from the railroad tracks, There are all kinds of rocks around the tracks, Then the officer next door said its illegal.Wont do that again.

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Rob
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I usually (but not always) put about and inch of 1/2 inch gravel in the bottom of my 5 gallon + containers just to facilitate drainage.

Honestly, I've not noticed a difference between the pots that I gravel, and the the ones I don't. I'll pay better attention this year.

One downside of graveling the bottom is if you're recycling your soil year to year. After 3 or 4 years, your soil get's pretty "rocky".

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Kisal
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Rob wrote:One downside of graveling the bottom is if you're recycling your soil year to year. After 3 or 4 years, your soil get's pretty "rocky".
That is exactly the reason I stopped putting rocks, broken pottery, screening, or anything else in the bottom of my plant pots. :lol:

Haesuse
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a tomato plant in a bucket or pot is very, very likely to become ridiculously top heavy. this may not be much of an issue for you, especially if you have large, heavy pots. but for me it is huge. my plants are in 5 gallon buckets on a patio, 20 feet off the ground. it becomes a wind tunnel out there. enough to knock over a charcoal grill. MORE than enough to send a top heavy tomato plant flying.

in order to keep the center of gravity lower, and prevent possible wind knock overs, rocks help out a lot.

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Kisal
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Not a problem for me. The containers I use are plastic, so not particularly heavy on their own, but they're significantly wider than a 5-gallon bucket, and perhaps deeper, too.

My patio is at ground level, and we don't get that much wind around here ... especially during the summer.

You make a good point though, and folks would be wise to consider whether the weight & size of the containers they use vs. the weight & size of the top of the plant could cause issues for them. :)

michelehixon
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I bought a large planter for my taller tomato plant. It had one large hole in the bottom, so I put a few stones over the hole. Still lots of room for soil. The tomato was doing amazing until the leaves started to yellow and brown. Finally I checked the soil moisture and it said it was Wet. I aerated the soil, even pulled some of the soil out to check the roots, which are white. But I did notice that the lower part of the soil near the rocks is quite cool. I live in Florida and am concerned about the difference in temp between the air and roots. It has come down now from Wet to Moist. Yet it looks worse than ever. Not sure what is wrong.

PaulF
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The reason we put rocks at the bottom is to help keep the soil from plugging up the holes at the bottom of the pots. Plugged up holes is like not having drain holes at all. Rather than rocks we often put in soda cans or bottles. The advantage is that we don't use so much soilless mix in the containers if they are large sized (5 gallons or more) and a layer or two will allow drainage. Small flower pots do get the rocks on the bottom treatment. For tomatoes I would never use a container smaller than 5 gallons anyway.

Vanisle_BC
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@michelehixon; Welcome. You've come to a friendly place. (It's nice & sometimes useful if you can include location in your profile.)

I think using rocks to keep soil from spilling out the drainage holes is a normal thing to do. I sometimes put newspaper in the bottom instead.

I don't know how many things might cause the yellowing leaves, but here's a thought: Maybe the soil is just getting too hot. Is it sitting in the sunshine, probably in a dark colored pot? Soil would quite naturally be cooler towards the centre, and the rocks could be helping there. I'm only guessing here. I don't grow much in containers; but I once had a black-potted shrub (fig) that suffered that way. I moved it to a cooler spot until I could plant it in the ground.

imafan26
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I used to put rocks at the bottoms of containers years ago. It was then as a drainage layer. But it was only a few rocks. Screen mesh over the drain holes also help to keep the snails and slugs from eating the plant roots.

I rarely do this now. Styrofoam has replaced the rocks, but now with bubble wrap and extruded cardboard, this is also becoming a dinosaur.

The main thing is that you should use potting soil, not garden soil in containers so it won't pack down and cause drainage issues.

For top heavy plants, I do use heavy pots. Some of my top heavy orchids won't stand in a plastic pot unless I put the plastic pot in a heavy clay or concrete pot.

I grow tomatoes in 18 gallon pots and half barrels so they are heavy enough. I prefer not to use the more tapered decorative pots even large resin ones, because the tapered shape with the smaller end on the bottom can still topple over.

I think the problem with the tomato was that you only had one hole in the bottom of the container. If you don't position your rocks properly or you block the hole it won't drain that well. The other thing is to make sure you used the right kind of soil. It must be potting soil, not compost or garden soil which will be too heavy for the pot without additional drainage components like perlite, vermiculite, or cinder.

I you have a saucer under that pot, get rid of it. I just had that problem myself. I planted tomatoes in three new decorative plastic pots. Usually I ditch the attached saucer. This time, I did not think about it. The new pots are like new cars the saucer blends in so well, you hardly notice it. The pot had 4 drain holes, or so I thought. The saucer attached with pegs in those holes, essentially plugging them. I thought the saucer would overflow and only the bottom would be wet until the plants started yellowing suddenly after a few days of constant rain. One of the pots was overflowing with water. The tomatoes are already too heavy and with the trellis it would not be easy to remove the saucers. So, I got my drill with the largest bit I have and drilled additonal holes in the sides of the pot just above the saucer, so the water can get out.

Also a tip for choosing containers. It is better to get a container that has drain holes on the side as well as the bottom or make more holes yourself. Indoors or on patios people put saucers under plants, but it helps to kill plants if you are not careful about watering or emptying the saucers. If the holes are only on the bottom and you are on a flat surface, it can impede the drainage of the pot. Holes on the sides won't be blocked. I would still put a piece of window screen on the bottom of the pot to help keep the snails from eating the plant roots.

When I have saucers, I usually throw them away or I put them upside down under the pot and use it as a pedestal. I do have a couple of terra cotta saucers that I use to provide water for beneficial insects in summer. I put the saucer on top of my decorative planter. the saucer has decorative stones and is only about 1/4-1/2 inch deep. The butterflies, wasps, and bees always need water in summer. The stones provide a safe perch for them and they can drink the water between the pebbles. Once a week the saucer needs to be cleaned and new water added. When the rainy season begins, there will be plenty of water they will lap up off the plant leaves, so the saucer gets turned upside down and is stored or gets put under a pot as a pedestal until it is needed again.



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