I have a greenhouse on the south side of my basement. This year when I prune, I'm considering making new plants from the suckers (in containers). As I get late into the season, I'll move them inside. Is lightly removing the outside layer then putting them in soil all that I have to do, or would rooting hormone help?
Has anyone done this? Is there any issues with declining light hours making artificial light necessary?
What differences is there between hanging tomato plants upright and upside down? I've seen the topsy turvy method but never tried it. I have a good, strong frame to support many, big containers. Do the roots of upside down plants need protected from sunlight?
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hendi_alex
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Rooting tomato suckers is about the easiest thing ever. I pinch mine off and place a few in a glass of water covering approximately the bottom third and place in a window that only gets indirect light. In less than two weeks most if not all will form roots and be ready to transplant into a two or three inch container. My biggest mistake with using this method for a late harvest is waiting too long to start the plants. Here in S.C. they have plenty of time to mature and bear if started around mid June.
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hendi_alex
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I've never tried the upside down thing, though have considered it for in the greenhouse. Last year my tomatoes got whiteflies in the greenhouse, and I can't seem to get rid of these insecticide resistant pests. Tomato plants can not handle a massive infestation like takes place in a hot, humid greenhouse, so I've given up on moving tomoto plants in for the fall/winter unless the fly problem can be solved.
Production does drop off dramatically in the fall, and if growing tomatoes during the late fall and winter again, would augment with a couple of banks of florescent bulbs mounted vertically. IMO bringing the plants in just to allow existing fruit set to ripen makes the most sense as that should give a trickle of vine ripened tomatoes for at least an extra three weeks to a month or longer. One year mine were still ripening in late December, about the time that the first seeds are planted for the next year's crop.
Production does drop off dramatically in the fall, and if growing tomatoes during the late fall and winter again, would augment with a couple of banks of florescent bulbs mounted vertically. IMO bringing the plants in just to allow existing fruit set to ripen makes the most sense as that should give a trickle of vine ripened tomatoes for at least an extra three weeks to a month or longer. One year mine were still ripening in late December, about the time that the first seeds are planted for the next year's crop.
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rainbowgardener
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Tomatoes are full-sun plants. Absolutely you will have to have artificial lighting for them if you think you can keep them producing through the winter. Haven't tried the upside down method, but I've read some posts here from people who have who say it works but is kind of messy-- when you water, the water runs all down the plant leaving muddy water on the leaves and fruit and dripping down to whatever the plant is hanging over. So if you are trying it indoors be sure they are hanging over something you don't mind dripped on. The roots are protected from the sun by whatever container you are hanging and by the depth of soil between the root and the top (originally bottom) of the container. Let us know how it works!