Seeds for the final phase segregate of Shimofuri (霜降り) approved by me are being sold exclusively by my friend Ellie of Bunny Hop Seeds now at:
Shimofuri – Heritage Seed Market
https://heritageseedmarket.com/index.ph ... shimofuri/

Eeeee! Would you be willing to trade seeds with me? I really don't need to buy anymore until I can manage to rid myself of some of my varieties I don't want to grow again. Please have a look under my 'Free Seed' thread if you would and see if there's something I have you might want to try. I'm afraid I'll have to just throw away the majority of the unwanted seeds by the end of the year if no one wants them.applestar wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 1:08 amFYI —
Seeds for the final phase segregate of Shimofuri (霜降り) approved by me are being sold exclusively by my friend Ellie of Bunny Hop Seeds now at:
Shimofuri – Heritage Seed Market
https://heritageseedmarket.com/index.ph ... shimofuri/
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applestar wrote: ↑Sun May 10, 2015 5:29 am@lindsay, these Dwarf Arctic Rose fruits have excellent flavor for a winter indoor tomato. Definitely deep tomato flavor and zing. Difficult to get the sweetness when temperature is cold but since it's been hot lately, they have been more sweet.![]()
I have three more mega fruits and about 1/2 dozen singles, but the most anticipated fruit I'm waiting for it to blush is a cross I made with Utyonok.
two singles in the truss with the three megas, and three more blushing below, and the one green medium sized Dwarf Arctic Rose x Utyonok fruit....
The other crosses I made with Maglia Rosa didn't develop...and I would have had more fruits but one branch with 6 still-tiny green fruits on it broke off -- I suspect one of the cats pushed it over when trying to get on or off the windowsill.
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applestar wrote: ↑Sun Sep 27, 2015 4:47 pmUpdate Photos of Dwarf Arctic Rose x Utyonok F1 seedlings.
They are showing very promising stout and dwarf (short internode) structure that might be really good for winter indoor growing and container growing, intermingling with flowers without unsightly tomato supports....![]()
applestar wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:06 amDwarf Arctic Rose x Utyonok F1
...this one was started early -- in fact on schedule for Winter Indoor growout. But it seems like that was actually its undoing, because this one and another variety I started on time were rapidly overcome by severe TRM (tomato russet mite) infestation.
I can't tell if the stress was the reason that all of the seedlings ended up with a single fruit before deteriorating. First one barely managed to ripen its fruit.
applestar wrote: ↑Fri Jul 30, 2021 6:14 pmMolten Sky F5/F6 and Molten Sun F5/F6 harvested today.
These fruit traits are DEFINITELY the ones I want to carry forward
They are tasty, too. Solid sweet front end with burst of umami and bright tangy finish, Assertive enough to be sliced lengthwise and nestled in a layer of mayo in a hamburger (I had one with thinly diagonally sliced Suyo Long cucumbers and a large winter squash blossom subbing for lettuce today). Best flavor within a day or two of harvest since they already resist being picked earlier. Skin is not too thick, flesh is not mushy but juicy, never crunchy.
This morning, I spotted one of the lower trusses that only managed to set one fruit (+ a runt) of a (not quite multiflora) truss during the heatwave or muggy humidity or maybe the sudden cold snap… and lookee here, it’s an elongated cherry, is marked with very strong stripes, and is pointy!applestar wrote: ↑Tue Sep 07, 2021 3:46 pmAccording to my planting map, this should be one of the two plants of “MR.Zm F3 4B-P3 9/5/16” — part of my “Maglia Rosa #1 (WWL) x (Zluta Kytice + Coyote + Matt's Wild Cherry + Faelan's First Snow lv)” mixed pollen cross grow outs.
after F3, I subdivided the clear epi segregates and yellow epi segregates since yellow epi is dominant, and this one with the MR.Zm designation is the yellow epi subgroup that assumes descent from Zluta Kytice or Matt’s Wild.
…AAAND! this one is MULTIFLORA! (Zluta Kytice characteristic). (I’ll post in detail in my cross thread later — I was just so happy to see the floral truss this morning
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Shimofuri(霜降り) can also be grown from balcony and deck railing in window boxes (30 inch to 36 inch) — one plant per container.Container and Pot Sizes: How Much Soil Do I Need? | Harvest to Table
Soil for Hanging Baskets
10 inch (25 cm) = 5.5 dry quarts (6L) = 0.21 cu. ft.
12 inch (30 cm) = 7.9 dry quarts (8.4L) = 0.3 cu. ft.
14 inch (36 cm) = 13.9 dry quarts (15.3L) = 0.5 cu. ft.
applestar wrote: ↑Sun Apr 10, 2022 3:07 pmBAD NEWS — of all this year’s tomato seedling trays, the one tray with all of the established variegated leaf varieties — Faelan’s First Snow and Shimofuri F9, as well as Sweet Splash trial — have been struck by the dreaded “damping off of the older seedlings”.
This is the kind that causes steady wilting and dropping of lower leaves starting with the seed leaves. I’ve had to give up on 3 seedlings already when the disease spread all the way to the growing point. A handful are in jeopardy with only a couple of sets of top most leaves left.
I believe the disease was introduced when I unthinkingly used bamboo skewers that were probably left from last year’s seedling grow out (when I first discovered and learned about this disease). I didn’t realize they had not been properly sterilized (and I also underestimated that it would not still be lurking on them.)
…it’s not as easy to tell that Sweet Splash seedlings are being affected, but they seem stunted and their (rugose potato leaf?) true leaves are maintaining curled edges without stretching out …unlike true leaves that wilt in stages one leaflet at a time from the tip.
…One other variety in the tray — Beaverlodge Slicer — don’t seem to be affected? OR VERY LITTLE. It will be interesting to find out if they are resistant.
I am continuing to treat the tray —
(1) started with spraying the surface of the mix with straight drug store hydrogen peroxide, then thoroughly watered with 50% diluted. Also sprayed the stems with neem-soap solution — that didn’t seem to help
(2) thoroughly cleaned the bottom drip tray and sprayed the underside of the cells with hydrogen peroxide
(3) mixed up a small batch Ehime AI-2 (or near approximation) — yogurt, yogurt whey, brown rice milk, yeast, natto powder, cane sugar — and after overnight culture, applied 3 drops per cell, then watered and drenched with decoction of dried willow bark, willow branch tips, sliced fresh ginger.
(4) Inoculated the leftover willow bark decoction with the probiotic culture and have been continuing to apply to seedlings that have deteriorated.