Fertilizer or Compost?

[gixxerific]

Does it matter really? That is what I am wondering. I very rarly use fertilizer in my garden and when I do it is blood meal, bone meal, fish emulsions or tomatoetone at times. But even then I am not sure I am putting enough down to really make a differance. I am no a big fertilizer person I feel you can feed the earth and that is all you need.

I just got my soil test back, first one ever. it say's my PK of NPK are above high levels. Everything else is in the high (good) range. They sugest doing no additions. They don't test for N but I'm sure it is good if the others are high. The only thing that bothers me is my pH is 7.2 which in "my" perfect world would be better at about 6.8 but I'm not complaining too much.

This is from no real fertilizer, just lot's of compost, manure and ton's of various organic matter. Starting with grass, clay , rock, more clay and even more rock 6-7 years ago.

I know there are a few here, one in particular, who do no fertilze much. So what are you are why. No one here is right or wrong remember it's just your style and what works for you.

Proofs in the pudding, just saying.

[rainbowgardener]

Sounds like what you are doing is working well. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

I use only compost and mulch, maybe some compost tea / infusion. The only soil test I do is pH. Otherwise I just figure as long as I keep enriching the soil and as long as everything is growing well and healthy, it's ok.

[erins327]

So I'm curious, if you are using just compost, how much of it are you using?

We obviously compost as much as we can, but I feel like the nutrient hungry stuff in the summer (tomatoes, beans, etc) the compost wouldnt be able to keep up.

And I do see a difference when I do a liquid fertilizer application every month or so.

[Susan W]

Sounds like all is well, gix. If you add anything more, customize for various plants, such as the tomatoes. I am planning to go heavier on the N (fish) this season with the basil and a few others. I need lots of green growth. I kept up with the basil, but will be nudging the parsley and chives plus whatever I think of. For flowerings plants a different emphasis, and I need to check that, perhaps just going with flowertone. I think it is also good to go back through once/twice and work the soil around the plants, clean, add compost/worm stuff/whatever giving a mid season boost.

[rainbowgardener]

So I'm curious, if you are using just compost, how much of it are you using?

We obviously compost as much as we can, but I feel like the nutrient hungry stuff in the summer (tomatoes, beans, etc) the compost wouldnt be able to keep up.

And I do see a difference when I do a liquid fertilizer application every month or so.

Not a ton. I put compost in the planting holes and a thin layer across the beds (I would do more if I had more, but as you say ...). Then I mulch well. Mid season I add a top dressing of compost and more mulch. I use as much green mulch as I can - grass clippings, pulled weeds, etc., mixed with fall leaves. I consider that part of feeding the soil as well. Besides that I may add compost tea a few times in the season - making it into tea or infusion stretches the compost.

Everything seems happy and healthy and thriving. Is it possible if I pumped it up with Miracle Gro or something I would get more production? Sure. It is also possible I would get more problems. All that big lush tender growth from pushing synth fertilizers is a magnet for every bug and disease in town. So then you start wanting poisons to deal with that.... I'm not greedy. My 200 or so sq feet of veggie beds gives me something to eat from my garden most every day in the season and some left over to can/freeze. I don't particularly care that if I were willing to mine my soil, I might get even more.

[Dillbert]

>>does it matter?

yes, no. and after a while, probably not.
(did I miss anything . . . ?)

stuff applied as nitrogen rich organic fertilizer generally does not have much "bulk" to it.
compost, otoh, adds organic matter - and one has to keep adding because organic matter really does go to "dust"

one plot I started with heavy dense mucky clay. after 15 years, I could not use a garden fork for digging - you push it in pry it out, all the soil falls through the tines . . . .

at some point soil tilth is sufficient that one can back off the rigorous addition of compost for soil structure sake. but compost is a good -PK source - since I'm "into" root crops, I test and continue.

for nitrogen I generally "wing it" - watch the plants - the fast growers will quickly show some yellowing if the plot is low in the N category.

blood meal is my preferred N-weapon of choice; but if the beans are blooming and yellow, I go for dehydrated poultry manure - that releases its nitrogen faster.

[gixxerific]

I will not be deviating from the plan. There will not be much fert just a little here and there.

As far as how much compost I have added. Well none last year it was just manure. But some years I bring in both by the pickup truckload. When I got here the soil was awful yet promising. Very high in clay, but geologically this is good soil due to a few glacier movements (look it up ). Most people hate on clay but it has it very good points (High CEC). But for workability it is horrible. So I have been adding a buttload of organic matter of all kind. I would say that it needs some topsoil which is on the agenda at the next possible time. I have a great free source near. It's lake dredging and Very nice stuff.

I'm rambling.

[imafan26]

A pH of 7.2 is fine. It is actually in the normal range. Most plants like it slightly acidic but do fine even if it is a little higher. If your plants are healthy and you are happy with the yields you don't have anything to fix.

I am not surprised the phos and K are high. When you add organic materials in quantity those numbers do go up. So does the Ca.

Nitrogen is usually not measured on a soil test because it is so transient. It is a limiting factor of growth. I usually send a tissue sample with the soil test,(It is actually recommended), to check the tissue nitrogen.

Usually even if the other numbers are high, some nitrogen is still recommended even in small quantities but if your plants don't show signs of needing it, you are probably just fine.

Whatever you are doing, keep doing it

[farmerlon]

... Is it possible if I pumped it up with Miracle Gro or something I would get more production? Sure. It is also possible I would get more problems. All that big lush tender growth from pushing synth fertilizers is a magnet for every bug and disease in town. So then you start wanting poisons to deal with that.... .

Very well said!
Yep, grow for quality first; quantity is no guarantee for quality.

[imafan26]

If you can achieve yields you are happy with using organic compost, and fertilizers, and you are using them safely, you don't really need to do more.

[ElizabethB]

Ask yourelf a question. Are you capable of changing nature? Do you know any one capable of changing nature? The answer to both questions is generally NO. So go with the flow. Your compost is your best friend. I will use sulfur for specific applications ie blue berries or blue hydrangeas. Other than that I am trying to avoid all commercial chemicals. One exception is fire ant control. Those beast get poison no questions asked.

I used up all of last year's compost. So I am starting over. One bin is my holding bin. Lots of mulched oak leaves. Second bin is to work in. Added an 18" layer of mulched leaves then 18" of fresh grass clipping then another 18" of leaves. Nect is an 18" layer of green. going to the local vegetable market. They wll give me all of the green vegetable trimmings I can use. Next layer will be cured, composted horse manure from my sister's horse farm. Then some green. Always like rabbit manure. A cool green that can be used in the garden fresh.

This spring I re potted ALL of my MANY potted patio plants. Mixed the existing potting soil with compost 50/50. Happy plants. Will have to back off on my no chemical decision when it comes to the potted plants. They very quickly deplete the soil nutrients and need help.

Ow well - go with the compost first then use fertilizer only as a suppliment when needed. Mostly in potted plants.

Good luck

[Ech]

Have you considered Blocking Comfrey 14? This is my second year using it and I have to say I have been very happy with the result. However if you do consider this as an organic fertilizer there are 2 things you should really consider;

1)Its tap root will reach up to around 10', which is why it is so good as fertilizer but also why wherever you plant it, it is there to stay.

2)Russian Blocking 14 Comfrey is probably the best way to go since it does not produce seed. I understand that not everyone may consider this organic, but the alternative is a highly invasive plant that, again, has a 10' tap root and will grow back if you miss so much of an inch of it.

This plant grows incredibly fast. I have cut it to the ground and a week later it looks like nothing touched it. Nothing seems to eat it either.