FishFL
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New to vegetable gardening. Help...

Hi, I started a container garden (4 weeks ago). Ive never done this before so I am learning as I go. I have 3 Bell Peppers, 1 Tomato, Zucchini, Squash, Cucumber, Onions, Many Pole Beans

Questions about some varieties: Keep in mind I am planning to keep everything Organic.

Bell peppers: 3- plants 6-9 inches tall- They have all flowered, each have at least 1 pepper starting to grow. Should I let them grow or prune them and let the plant mature? If so, how tall should the plant be before allowing it to bear fruit?

Tomato: I bought the plant around 6 inches with 4 small tomatoes on it. The fruit (now 3) has grown a little bigger than golf ball size, but plant itslef has not grown. Should I prune this of all fruit?

Also, tomato plant is developing white powdery mold. The tomatoes are not infected, just the tops of the leaves. The stems of the new flowers have withered and fallen off.
Some of the leaves that are infected are turning yellow. I am assuming it is disrupting photosinthesis. How should I manage this? Organic fungicide (home made recipes)? Clip off infected leaves? Should I remove the tomatoes and treat the plant?

Help.

FishFL
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I am in Florida
Last edited by FishFL on Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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rainbowgardener
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MarlinG gave you good advice. Since the tomato plant is struggling with disease and not growing and it is so small, I would take the baby tomatoes off it, let it focus on getting established. Be sure you spray the under sides of the leaves well as well as the top sides.

Florida is a humid climate where the powdery mildew is a constant threat. The spray will have to be repeated weekly, perhaps alternating with a baking soda solution or compost tea. Be sure your plant is getting plenty of sun as well as air circulation.

FishFL
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Thanks for the advice.

So I went ahead and clipped the infected leaves. I left the tomatoes on the plant. Then sprayed with the milk/ water solution. It seems like it did help.

The Few leaves that are still left look very healthy green. I left some of they new leaves that were beginning to sprout out, not sure if I will need to remove them. I'm hoping for the best.

I will continue to spray with the milk solution every few days unitl recovery. Is it the bacteria in the milk that kills off the mildew?

imafan26
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Milk has been used to control mildew. I does work but needs to be applied often. Most fungal diseases are easier to prevent than to cure.
There are a lot of theories of how milk works.
Milk makes decent leaf shine for indoor plants.
Milk has also been used to control virus transmission in orchids.
Cinnamon also works as a natural fungicide.

See link below about how milk works as a fungicide

https://www.myorganicflowers.com/powderymildew.htm

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rainbowgardener
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I have heard other people say that it is the lactobacillus in milk that has the fungicidal effect. For that reason I let the milk stand at room temperature for a few hours before I use it, to culture the bacteria a little.

tomc
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"Florida" covers a lot of real estate, from zone 8 to 11.

You may be too early

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applestar
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If you have access to fresh raw milk as mentioned in that linked article, there will be added benefits from live enzymes and even active immune system cells. (I suspect you need to be careful of too fine micronizing spray in that case, though I doubt most home sprays have the capability.) But even using powdered milk will work since the lactobacillus bacteria adheres to the foliage and create am active phytosphere that will help to outcompete with harmful fungal activity.

I recently posted a link elsewhere (Black Cherry tomato thread in the Tomato Forum) in which there was a recommendation to wet hands with 35% protein powdered milk solution when handling diseased plants to help control spreading to healthy plants.

My understanding is that unlike chemical sprays, bacteria will do their own part to stay on the foliage, so less concern over "washing off/away" is needed.
I alternate weekly foliar spray application of milk solution and diluted AACT during the worst humid and fungal disease prone period during the growing season.



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