Yes, I chose the organic forum to discuss ammonium nitrate. That's because I strive to be a strictly organic gardener and I would appreciate advice from those of you who are like-minded.
I recently visited an elder family member and admired his vegetable garden which he supplies a profitable produce stand with. His things grow incredibly fast and one of the reasons is ammonium nitrate. (He is far from organic). When I departed for the long trip home, he presented me with a coffee can full of ammonium nitrate. I politely thanked him and pretended that I would use my new-found "secret". I will be seeing him again later this summer.
Here is my question: If I should decide to use this stuff in a portion of my garden, just so that I can honestly tell him of my success (or failure) with it... just how much damage would I do to my rich, well-drained soil full of compost, earthworms and other good critters? How long would it take for my soil to recover to resume organic methods?
This stuff is something like 38 - 0 - 0. An extreme dose of nitrogen, which I know is common for commercial farmers.
According to the [url=https://www2.ftw.nrcs.usda.gov/mm/manure-nutrient-content.jsp]USDA[/url], chicken manure as generated "fresh from the chicken" contains 18.46 lb nitrogen per ton of manure.
Let's do a little bit of arithmetic:
18.46/2,000 = 0.00923, or 0.9% N (vs. the 38-0-0 ballpark NPK analysis of ammonium nitrate).
And absolutely no one hereabouts
recommends applying raw (= uncomposted) chicken manure to the garden soil because it will burn the plants! Hmmm...0.9%, or 0.9 lb N per 100 lb of chicken manure, vs. 38 lb N per 100 lb of ammonium nitrate.
Which one seems more likely to burn the plants now?! Yikes!
Oh, yes, and the earthworms, and whatever else was there. Jon Jeavons isn't alone in saying that once a commercial farmer begins with the application of synthetic fertilizers, s/he's hooked; the soil life has been assaulted.
If you ever run across a copy of Michael Pollan's [url=https://michaelpollan.com/books/the-botany-of-desire/]The Botany of Desire[/url], give it a read. His chapter on The Potato has an incredibly detailed description of "commercial" Idaho soil used to grow potatoes vs. organic soil also used to grow potatoes. It perfectly explained, at least to me, *why* the potatoes we grew here in Fall 2008/Spring 2009 tasted so spectacular when compared to "normal" spuds. ==> I told myself, "It's the soil, stupid. Duh."
Amazing book, The Botany of Desire. It will give you facts, not just opinion. So will Jeavons' How to Grow More Vegetables. If you want Jeavons' book from the source--his own Bountiful Gardens in Willits, California--please follow [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196902]the tips I got last Friday[/url] for successful ordering while they struggle with their web server.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Let's do a little bit of arithmetic:
18.46/2,000 = 0.00923, or 0.9% N (vs. the 38-0-0 ballpark NPK analysis of ammonium nitrate).
And absolutely no one hereabouts
recommends applying raw (= uncomposted) chicken manure to the garden soil because it will burn the plants! Hmmm...0.9%, or 0.9 lb N per 100 lb of chicken manure, vs. 38 lb N per 100 lb of ammonium nitrate.Which one seems more likely to burn the plants now?! Yikes!
Oh, yes, and the earthworms, and whatever else was there. Jon Jeavons isn't alone in saying that once a commercial farmer begins with the application of synthetic fertilizers, s/he's hooked; the soil life has been assaulted.
If you ever run across a copy of Michael Pollan's [url=https://michaelpollan.com/books/the-botany-of-desire/]The Botany of Desire[/url], give it a read. His chapter on The Potato has an incredibly detailed description of "commercial" Idaho soil used to grow potatoes vs. organic soil also used to grow potatoes. It perfectly explained, at least to me, *why* the potatoes we grew here in Fall 2008/Spring 2009 tasted so spectacular when compared to "normal" spuds. ==> I told myself, "It's the soil, stupid. Duh."
Amazing book, The Botany of Desire. It will give you facts, not just opinion. So will Jeavons' How to Grow More Vegetables. If you want Jeavons' book from the source--his own Bountiful Gardens in Willits, California--please follow [url=https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=196902]the tips I got last Friday[/url] for successful ordering while they struggle with their web server.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Thanks, Cynthia. I'm thinking of tearing up a new spot in my yard to fool around with. Since I'm always the last one to get tomatoes (I usually direct-sow them), I might buy a few plants and use the chemicals in that soil. I don't know if I'll get much of anything at all this season as the rains keep pounding and drowning my seedlings. The soil keeps washing away from the roots.
This fellow also uses chemical pesticides, of course. There were some ants in the kitchen and he applied some malathion to the outside of the house where they were coming from. It stunk up not only the whole house, but the whole neighborhood. Very pungent odor. No way would I put that on my vegetables which I intend to eat!
This fellow also uses chemical pesticides, of course. There were some ants in the kitchen and he applied some malathion to the outside of the house where they were coming from. It stunk up not only the whole house, but the whole neighborhood. Very pungent odor. No way would I put that on my vegetables which I intend to eat!
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DoubleDogFarm
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
Without Phosphorous, and Potash (Potassium) you probably won't get much blossom or fruit set, but lots of lush leafy growth.
What Cynthia is pointing out is true. There is a Hugh deference in percentages, but you have to remember the application rates recommended. You apply large amounts of manure vs small cups of chemicals.
Eric
What Cynthia is pointing out is true. There is a Hugh deference in percentages, but you have to remember the application rates recommended. You apply large amounts of manure vs small cups of chemicals.
Eric
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Gary350
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 7427
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 1:59 pm
- Location: TN. 50 years of gardening experience.
I have no problem using Ammonium Nitrate on my organic garden. I like Urea better than Ammonium Nitrate I think it is better. Dissolve 1/2 cup of Ammonium Nitrate in 5 gallons of water then water your plants about 1 cup of water per plant 1 time per week when temperatures are below 85 degrees. NO fertilizer during the hot months July and August. If you use Urea disolve 1/3 cup in 5 gallons of water.
I recently learned fermented shelled corn produces nitrogen. About 5 gallons of wet corn in a bucket with a lid. Keep the temperature of the bucket between 70 to 85 degrees until you smell Ammonia.
I like 15/15/15 fertilizer. Wood ash. Urine in compost. Legume inoculant. Manure. Nitrogen is still nitrogen no mater where you get it.
I recently learned fermented shelled corn produces nitrogen. About 5 gallons of wet corn in a bucket with a lid. Keep the temperature of the bucket between 70 to 85 degrees until you smell Ammonia.
I like 15/15/15 fertilizer. Wood ash. Urine in compost. Legume inoculant. Manure. Nitrogen is still nitrogen no mater where you get it.