Forgive me for being naive. I have been gardening for about 10 years, but I have always stuck to things that I can direct-sow after the threat of frost has passed. This year, I've been trying to start tobacco and eggplant early and I'm getting frustrated.
I finally figured out what works, but as I am out of time, I'm trying to save the pots that are struggling. I have tiny sprouts that are tall, thin, and a reddish color. They are supposed to be green and hugging the soil at this point. I believe they are suffering from lack of sunlight. Here is my first question: Does plastic wrap or plexiglass combined with thick condensation allow enough light through? These pots are placed outside all day under the covers that I mentioned and they are brought inside at night, without the covers. The seeds just germinated within the last two days and yesterday was rainy with cloud cover. The covers had thick condensation. The weather is expected to be the same for the next two days. Does that mean that the sprouts will not get enough light?
Finally, I have to wonder if the sprouts are already permanently damaged in their current condition.
By the way, what worked was the old-standby method of germinating on wet paper towels and transferring to pots without using any covers. Maybe I should forget about the covers, but these plants are supposed to need heat.
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DoubleDogFarm
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rainbowgardener
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That's just a link to the index, not too helpful.
It sounds like you are trying to start seedlings without light. Kind of tricky.
I think the covers, plexi or plastic or whatever, will not only cut out too much light, they will keep in too much humidity and your seedlings will damp off, and if the sun does come out, it will keep in way too much heat and cook the little plants. So get rid of the covers.
If your weather is decent enough now for the little seedlings to be ok, then you can just leave them out uncovered. It would help if you could find a protected spot for them, like against a house wall. If you could plant those seeds in the ground now and have them be ok, then it's probably ok just to leave them out.
If not, then you will need to bring them in, in which case you need to provide light for them, not just windows.
It sounds like you are trying to start seedlings without light. Kind of tricky.
I think the covers, plexi or plastic or whatever, will not only cut out too much light, they will keep in too much humidity and your seedlings will damp off, and if the sun does come out, it will keep in way too much heat and cook the little plants. So get rid of the covers.
If your weather is decent enough now for the little seedlings to be ok, then you can just leave them out uncovered. It would help if you could find a protected spot for them, like against a house wall. If you could plant those seeds in the ground now and have them be ok, then it's probably ok just to leave them out.
If not, then you will need to bring them in, in which case you need to provide light for them, not just windows.
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DoubleDogFarm
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Thanks alot for your input. I guess the covers are not the way to go. I was looking for an alternative to artificial light as I have failed with that in the past and never tried again.
I've got nothing to lose by leaving some outside uncovered now. I'll see what happens, but the low temps are in the 30's right now. I put the "grow light" on some others to see if that will save them.
At least I have a few that are working out.
I've got nothing to lose by leaving some outside uncovered now. I'll see what happens, but the low temps are in the 30's right now. I put the "grow light" on some others to see if that will save them.
At least I have a few that are working out.
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Sage Hermit
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10 years!!? 
What I like to do is make a basic cheat sheet for each plant that includes optimal pH, spacing, water, how much sun, and temperature. This is like my check list. If you uncover its going to effect the water + temperature + sun and another factor that I am learning about, wind.
Example 1:
Eggplant pH 5.8 - 6.8, 18 inches spacing, Water = 1 inch per week , 75-80°F
Random facts: likes calcium. Matures approx. 2 1/2 months, cloth wraps deter cutworm and help from wind.
WELL HAVE FUN! WISH I WASN'T SO SORE I'D NOT BE IN FRONT OF THIS COMPUTER
What I like to do is make a basic cheat sheet for each plant that includes optimal pH, spacing, water, how much sun, and temperature. This is like my check list. If you uncover its going to effect the water + temperature + sun and another factor that I am learning about, wind.
Example 1:
Eggplant pH 5.8 - 6.8, 18 inches spacing, Water = 1 inch per week , 75-80°F
Random facts: likes calcium. Matures approx. 2 1/2 months, cloth wraps deter cutworm and help from wind.
WELL HAVE FUN! WISH I WASN'T SO SORE I'D NOT BE IN FRONT OF THIS COMPUTER
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applestar
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- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Hmm... I think that the plastic-covered condition, just as rainbowgardener had summed up, would have resulted in weak and tender growth. Leaving them outside uncovered will probably result in immediate demise. It will also be difficult to bring them up from their current state to a stronger condition. You'll need to do it gradually.
One of my favorite ways to start the hardening off process while the temperature outside is still cold is to put the seedlings in a clear/translucent storage tubs with clear latch-on lids. The lids can be left askew to allow for ventilation in the sunlight while the plants are completely protected from strong winds. The lids can also provide tender seedlings with diffuse sunlight at first. On borderline temperature nights, I latch the lids closed, but open them in the morning as soon as the sun warms the tubs a little bit. If it's going to be just too cold, I can easily bring the tubs inside.
Get a thermometer and make note of the temperature in the sun. You'll be surprised how hot it can get. Monitor temp inside the tubs as well (if you decide to try this).
One of my favorite ways to start the hardening off process while the temperature outside is still cold is to put the seedlings in a clear/translucent storage tubs with clear latch-on lids. The lids can be left askew to allow for ventilation in the sunlight while the plants are completely protected from strong winds. The lids can also provide tender seedlings with diffuse sunlight at first. On borderline temperature nights, I latch the lids closed, but open them in the morning as soon as the sun warms the tubs a little bit. If it's going to be just too cold, I can easily bring the tubs inside.
Get a thermometer and make note of the temperature in the sun. You'll be surprised how hot it can get. Monitor temp inside the tubs as well (if you decide to try this).
Sage Hermit - you must be implying that I haven't learned much in 10 years. If so, you're probably right 
Thanks for the eggplant data.
Applestar - thanks for the thoughts. The clear plastic tub idea is just what I've been doing the last couple of days, only I used a piece of plexiglass for the cover and I only put a couple of twigs under it for ventilation. Leaving the cover more askew sounds like a much better idea.
Today was partly sunny, so I set the uncovered tub out all day and brought it back in after dark. There seems to have been very slight improvement (at least they don't look any worse.)
Thanks for the eggplant data.Applestar - thanks for the thoughts. The clear plastic tub idea is just what I've been doing the last couple of days, only I used a piece of plexiglass for the cover and I only put a couple of twigs under it for ventilation. Leaving the cover more askew sounds like a much better idea.
Today was partly sunny, so I set the uncovered tub out all day and brought it back in after dark. There seems to have been very slight improvement (at least they don't look any worse.)