I want to get a earlier start this spring on some of my plants.
so I am thinking of useing the 1/2" pvc water pipes for support of the plastic covers.
I understand a 10' foot long one will bend just right for my 4' wide raised beds.
Going up to columbia mo. feb. 2nd to doctor,so I will check out lowes and home depot for the things I need,,I hope it will be cheaper up there.
it is a 2hr. drive up there,,so don't go any more then I have too.
want advice from the folks that have tryed this out.
got a week to decide on this.
thank you in advance
Larry
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Homesteader
- Full Member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2009 9:47 pm
- Location: Mid Michigan.
Muddy45; I have used the 1/2" PVC. pipe for this purpose and found that you will need to run a pc. of the same pipe accrossed the tops after forming your hoops to stabilize it. Otherwise when you place the sheeting over it the end hoops will want to pull in toward the center. I layed one of the pipes accrossed the top and secured it by twisting a piece of wire around each hoop and the top pipe. Twist the wire from the underside of the hoops to avoid tearing the sheeting when it is applied. Then all I needed to do was weight down the sides and ends of my sheeting. If your beds are longer than 10 feet simply cut a pc. of pipe the correct length and wire it in place. When it gets to warm you can open the ends for a bit of ventilation. You will want to push the ends of your hoops about 5 or six inches into the soil on each side of your beds to hold them in place.
Hopes this helps.
Hopes this helps.
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muddy45
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- Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:38 am
- Location: lake of the ozarks area missouri
thanks homesteader
wasn't sure if 1/2" was big enough,,so I guess it is.
how long will the pvc hold up against the sun,if I use it year around?
figured I might put chicken wire over them in summer to keep my ducks out of the green or what ever.
right now they like to work the hay mulch over every day.
this is the first year I have mascovies ducks running all over,lost half of them already to dogs and coyotes,
. don't want to pen them up as I have them to eat ticks, and my 2 strand electric fence won't stop them ,when I plug it back in this spring.
thanks
Larry
wasn't sure if 1/2" was big enough,,so I guess it is.
how long will the pvc hold up against the sun,if I use it year around?
figured I might put chicken wire over them in summer to keep my ducks out of the green or what ever.
right now they like to work the hay mulch over every day.
this is the first year I have mascovies ducks running all over,lost half of them already to dogs and coyotes,
. don't want to pen them up as I have them to eat ticks, and my 2 strand electric fence won't stop them ,when I plug it back in this spring.
thanks
Larry
1/2 Electric pipe is really cheap(1.50) if you are able and creative ending it is pretty easy as well. I built a jig. It is galvinized so should last a long time. I stick it in the ground about 10 inches and run a stake in the ground and loop plastic-type string around each hoop and tie it a stake at the other end. It secures it well and helps shed water...Tater
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Homesteader
- Full Member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2009 9:47 pm
- Location: Mid Michigan.
Muddy45; Not sure about the PVC. for year around as I have never left mine up. I do believe the UV. rays will breakdown the PVC. over time but don`t know how long it will be good for.
You will need to keep an eye on the temp. in the tunnels as they heat very quickly in the sun. It does however have some very good results in the early spring over and above even starting at the regular time in spring without the covers. The best crops I have ever grown of spinach in the very early spring was under cover and it really surprised me how fast it grew. Now this was in some very good composted soil with plenty of water.
Good luck and let me know how it goes. I will be using plastic covers again this year for a jump on spring.
You will need to keep an eye on the temp. in the tunnels as they heat very quickly in the sun. It does however have some very good results in the early spring over and above even starting at the regular time in spring without the covers. The best crops I have ever grown of spinach in the very early spring was under cover and it really surprised me how fast it grew. Now this was in some very good composted soil with plenty of water.
Good luck and let me know how it goes. I will be using plastic covers again this year for a jump on spring.
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vermontkingdom
- Senior Member
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:03 am
- Location: 4a-Vermont
Hi,
I converted much of my garden into raised beds so I built several hoop houses with 1/2 inch pvc last fall. After I finished the last one, each 10 feet by 4 feet, I decided I should have used electrical conduit pipe since it will last much longer than pvc. So, I built a number of hoops using the conduit. I wish I hadn't spent money on pvc but I did.
It was surprisingly easy to bend the pipe, using a conduit bending device. I secured the pipes to the frames using brackets and pieces of rebar driven into the ground.
We just had a significant January thaw here in Vermont. I opened up one of hoops over the weekend and I was absolutely amazed at the condition and warmth of the soil.
We still have at least six weeks of hard winter weather left but I bet I'll be able to get a full month's running start on spring planting come March.
I converted much of my garden into raised beds so I built several hoop houses with 1/2 inch pvc last fall. After I finished the last one, each 10 feet by 4 feet, I decided I should have used electrical conduit pipe since it will last much longer than pvc. So, I built a number of hoops using the conduit. I wish I hadn't spent money on pvc but I did.
It was surprisingly easy to bend the pipe, using a conduit bending device. I secured the pipes to the frames using brackets and pieces of rebar driven into the ground.
We just had a significant January thaw here in Vermont. I opened up one of hoops over the weekend and I was absolutely amazed at the condition and warmth of the soil.
We still have at least six weeks of hard winter weather left but I bet I'll be able to get a full month's running start on spring planting come March.
I did a test. Planted spinach in well composted soil with NO cover on Dec 22,09 It took 30 days for it to sprout. I built low tunnels w/6 mil plastic. It took 8 days for the spinach to sprout.
I tried to describe my home made bender here but a picture will be more effective. A real emt bender wiill be too difficult It is for short (3'' or less) 90 degree bends.
I tried to describe my home made bender here but a picture will be more effective. A real emt bender wiill be too difficult It is for short (3'' or less) 90 degree bends.
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Farmer Dave
- Full Member
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 7:15 pm
- Location: California
Greetings
I have used plastic benders a lot and like black plastic or white PVC at 3/4 inch. I have found that on a 10' length if you use 3/4" you don't have to use the top support as someone else suggested, which I think is important if you just use 1/2" PVC which also works. I like to put a one foot piece of rebar or metal pipe or if I don't have that a wooden stake in the ground and then I just put the pipe over that and it holds better than burying the pipe ends directly. If you have ducks or chickens then you may not be able to open your cold frame on hot days which is essential. I made one for my daughter last year who has free range chickens and I cut a square hole in the plastic and lined it with duck tape as a vent hole so she wouldn't have to lift the cover on hot days. They work great and the frames will last many years even if you leave them in the sun. Regular 6 mill plastic will only last a couple seasons even if you take it in. Don't let it start to fall appart it is very hard to clean up.
Good luck and happy planting.
Farmer Dave
I have used plastic benders a lot and like black plastic or white PVC at 3/4 inch. I have found that on a 10' length if you use 3/4" you don't have to use the top support as someone else suggested, which I think is important if you just use 1/2" PVC which also works. I like to put a one foot piece of rebar or metal pipe or if I don't have that a wooden stake in the ground and then I just put the pipe over that and it holds better than burying the pipe ends directly. If you have ducks or chickens then you may not be able to open your cold frame on hot days which is essential. I made one for my daughter last year who has free range chickens and I cut a square hole in the plastic and lined it with duck tape as a vent hole so she wouldn't have to lift the cover on hot days. They work great and the frames will last many years even if you leave them in the sun. Regular 6 mill plastic will only last a couple seasons even if you take it in. Don't let it start to fall appart it is very hard to clean up.
Good luck and happy planting.
Farmer Dave
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Farmer Dave
- Full Member
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sat Jan 09, 2010 7:15 pm
- Location: California
I just posted a reply and suggestion for benders and wanted to show you a couple pictures but forgot to add them so here they are. I also forgot to add that you should put a metal or wooden stake about a foot from the end of the bed and bunch up the plastic and tie it to the stake, adjust tension and don't pull to hard or it will make the frame lean in. Good luck these are really good season extenders for me.
Cold Frame
[img]https://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/1Farmer_Dave/Garden%202009/cloche.jpg[/img]
Planting cold frame
[img]https://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/1Farmer_Dave/Green%20houses/clochesheom.jpg[/img]
Cold Frame
[img]https://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/1Farmer_Dave/Garden%202009/cloche.jpg[/img]
Planting cold frame
[img]https://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/1Farmer_Dave/Green%20houses/clochesheom.jpg[/img]
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barnercora
- Senior Member
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:20 pm
- Location: GEORGIA,USA
I am getting ready to experiment with some Row Covers, starting next week.
I purchased the gray plastic Electrical Conduit, because it is supposed to have some UV resistance.
I had thought about using steel Rebar to secure the pipes; but I had visions of tripping/falling and stabbing myself on a piece of that Rebar sticking out of the ground {and I also have a youngster that likes to run around}. So, I am going to put a larger diameter piece of conduit in the ground, and use that as a "sleeve" to stick the hoop pipe into.
Instead of using plastic sheeting, I am trying the Agribon Floating Row Cover material. I think that will work well in my climate... we'll see!
I purchased the gray plastic Electrical Conduit, because it is supposed to have some UV resistance.
I had thought about using steel Rebar to secure the pipes; but I had visions of tripping/falling and stabbing myself on a piece of that Rebar sticking out of the ground {and I also have a youngster that likes to run around}. So, I am going to put a larger diameter piece of conduit in the ground, and use that as a "sleeve" to stick the hoop pipe into.
Instead of using plastic sheeting, I am trying the Agribon Floating Row Cover material. I think that will work well in my climate... we'll see!
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applestar
- Mod
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I've done that with the ground stake tubing in the past. It works well unless structure is insufficiently tied down, then a big windstorm can pull them out when the wind takes hold of the cover (and of course you did your darndest to strongly secure the covers to the hoops 
). My mistake was not digging up or otherwise protecting the ground stake/sleeve pipes when not in use. 
Some got buried, some got filled with soil and became useless. I "discovered" a few of them while digging an extension to the garden years later. 
Floating Row cover -- Depending on the weight, they need a bit more support than plastic sheeting. I found tying strings across the supports works well, otherwise they can sag. But it's amazing how much heat that thin material can keep in. Doubling thinner material can provide additional frost protection and the second layer can be taken off later on.
). My mistake was not digging up or otherwise protecting the ground stake/sleeve pipes when not in use. Some got buried, some got filled with soil and became useless. I "discovered" a few of them while digging an extension to the garden years later. Floating Row cover -- Depending on the weight, they need a bit more support than plastic sheeting. I found tying strings across the supports works well, otherwise they can sag. But it's amazing how much heat that thin material can keep in. Doubling thinner material can provide additional frost protection and the second layer can be taken off later on.
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Ozark Lady
- Greener Thumb
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- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:28 pm
- Location: NW Arkansas, USA zone 7A elevation 1561 feet
I was going to post photos, but seems that I am brain dead today, or photo bucket changed how it works... no photos. I can't find the codes.
I bought a roll of black flexible pvc. I cut it into about 10' lengths.
My issue was, chickens, squirrels, or both were digging up seedlings constantly, it was many times a day issue to go put the plants back into the ground.
I also bought a large roll of 1" chicken wire. I took my 10' length of the 1/2" pvc that I had just cut, and simply wove it through... about 2-3" from the end. Once I had enough to go the length of the pipe and allowing 6-8" of pipe leg... I cut the chicken wire. These just naturally tended to bend. And they were adjustable for the beds... some are not a perfect 4' width... some are 3' 10" and some 4' 3".... I could just stick the legs into the soil, beside the boards and had a tunnel. Problem was the ends.
I ended up just going across the end and fastening it on with tie wire. The ends are not particularly adaptable... they are the size that they are!
Since my chicken wire was 2' lengths, I had 2' sections... really easy to remove a section and have access to that area, not heavy, not awkward.
I did find that I need to add 2 pvc pieces for the end ones, for more strength. It worked, no more dug out plants.
Then I noticed, I was having issues hardening plants off. So, I simply planted them, put my tunnel in place, and put a shade over it...
I could remove the shade for 10 minutes, 30 minutes, 2 hours etc. As the plants hardened off. And I could watch for stress and put the cover back on in a flash.
We soon ran out of vertical space... the answer? Legs... So I got 1" pvc, and cut it into sections... 18" but really they were too tall.. 12" would have done fine. And I got several 10' long 3/4" pvc. I cut these in half... making them all 5'. I drove the short ones into the ground, outside the beds, and then, simply stuck the 5' legs into them, and then my 1/2" tunnel legs simply slid down into them... It worked! High winds storms etc.. they stayed put...
I did have to put new chicken wire around the base, the new legs, had my chicken wire... protecting from aerial attacks... duh, what aerial attacks? I don't know but none happened...
We got into frost time... my crops were not ready to harvest. So, it was a simple matter to run out, throw a tarp on the tunnel... which was about 8'tall. A bit of a pain to reach it, but only took 5 minutes. I did notice, I could poke the tarp ends, with the eyelets, through the chicken wire, and it stayed secure. If I didn't do that... it blew off.
Since I was only protecting them at night, I just used blue tarps, and removed them soon as it was above freezing. It worked.
I plan to attach plastic, and not use my 5' legs at first, and use them to start early crops. I kept making more tunnels every few weeks. And I will continue building more all season this year. I liked them.
The chicken wire did add to the expense, but, they were sturdy, and they protected my plants... only frogs, lizards, snakes and bugs could get in there. You know, I used them all summer and they still haven't rusted.
Since I am not finding the url codes in photo bucket today... here is the link to the album...
https://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/Tobacco/
I bought a roll of black flexible pvc. I cut it into about 10' lengths.
My issue was, chickens, squirrels, or both were digging up seedlings constantly, it was many times a day issue to go put the plants back into the ground.
I also bought a large roll of 1" chicken wire. I took my 10' length of the 1/2" pvc that I had just cut, and simply wove it through... about 2-3" from the end. Once I had enough to go the length of the pipe and allowing 6-8" of pipe leg... I cut the chicken wire. These just naturally tended to bend. And they were adjustable for the beds... some are not a perfect 4' width... some are 3' 10" and some 4' 3".... I could just stick the legs into the soil, beside the boards and had a tunnel. Problem was the ends.
I ended up just going across the end and fastening it on with tie wire. The ends are not particularly adaptable... they are the size that they are!
Since my chicken wire was 2' lengths, I had 2' sections... really easy to remove a section and have access to that area, not heavy, not awkward.
I did find that I need to add 2 pvc pieces for the end ones, for more strength. It worked, no more dug out plants.
Then I noticed, I was having issues hardening plants off. So, I simply planted them, put my tunnel in place, and put a shade over it...
I could remove the shade for 10 minutes, 30 minutes, 2 hours etc. As the plants hardened off. And I could watch for stress and put the cover back on in a flash.
We soon ran out of vertical space... the answer? Legs... So I got 1" pvc, and cut it into sections... 18" but really they were too tall.. 12" would have done fine. And I got several 10' long 3/4" pvc. I cut these in half... making them all 5'. I drove the short ones into the ground, outside the beds, and then, simply stuck the 5' legs into them, and then my 1/2" tunnel legs simply slid down into them... It worked! High winds storms etc.. they stayed put...
I did have to put new chicken wire around the base, the new legs, had my chicken wire... protecting from aerial attacks... duh, what aerial attacks? I don't know but none happened...
We got into frost time... my crops were not ready to harvest. So, it was a simple matter to run out, throw a tarp on the tunnel... which was about 8'tall. A bit of a pain to reach it, but only took 5 minutes. I did notice, I could poke the tarp ends, with the eyelets, through the chicken wire, and it stayed secure. If I didn't do that... it blew off.
Since I was only protecting them at night, I just used blue tarps, and removed them soon as it was above freezing. It worked.
I plan to attach plastic, and not use my 5' legs at first, and use them to start early crops. I kept making more tunnels every few weeks. And I will continue building more all season this year. I liked them.
The chicken wire did add to the expense, but, they were sturdy, and they protected my plants... only frogs, lizards, snakes and bugs could get in there. You know, I used them all summer and they still haven't rusted.
Since I am not finding the url codes in photo bucket today... here is the link to the album...
https://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/Tobacco/
Good advice.applestar wrote:I've done that with the ground stake tubing in the past. It works well unless structure is insufficiently tied down, then a big windstorm can pull them out when the wind takes hold of the cover (and of course you did your darndest to strongly secure the covers to the hoops
I've been thinking about securing the Row Cover over the hoops. Most folks say to bury/cover the edges with dirt. But, I don't really like the idea of taking the time to do that. I have some old 2x4 lumber (NOT treated lumber) laying around, so I think I will just secure the edges of the row cover with that; and maybe plop a brick or two on the 2x4 if more weight is needed.
That should make it really quick for me to get the Row Cover on, off, and back on, whenever I need to.