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applestar
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Who knows a thing or two about using TEK screws?

Subject: Applestar’s 2019 Garden
applestar wrote:
...only trouble is, I think my drill is dying ... can’t decide if I should spring for a new drill now or just try to finish up. Also, I’m using self-drilling/tapping screws [on metal emt pipes] but I have to drill a pilot hole for each one because otherwise the screws just skitter around. Is it that my drill is underpowered, or is it because I’m not strong enough to press down sufficiently? I use a punch to make a dimple for the pilot hole drill bit — but that’s not sufficient for me to drill the screw in.
Hope someone here is knowledgeable about these things and can advise me. I need all the help I can get. :)

...btw, drilling the pilot hole is no easy task either — I’m using 5/16 bit for the pilot hole and I broke two of them already. I HAVE noticed putting a drop of oil on the tip of drill bit before starting the pilot hole helps. My drill is an older (like first generation) Ryobi 18V ONE+.

SQWIB
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applestar wrote:Subject: Applestar’s 2019 Garden
applestar wrote:
...only trouble is, I think my drill is dying ... can’t decide if I should spring for a new drill now or just try to finish up. Also, I’m using self-drilling/tapping screws [on metal emt pipes] but I have to drill a pilot hole for each one because otherwise the screws just skitter around. Is it that my drill is underpowered, or is it because I’m not strong enough to press down sufficiently? I use a punch to make a dimple for the pilot hole drill bit — but that’s not sufficient for me to drill the screw in.
Hope someone here is knowledgeable about these things and can advise me. I need all the help I can get. :)

...btw, drilling the pilot hole is no easy task either — I’m using 5/16 bit for the pilot hole and I broke two of them already. I HAVE noticed putting a drop of oil on the tip of drill bit before starting the pilot hole helps. My drill is an older (like first generation) Ryobi 18V ONE+.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Auto ... 0650&psc=1

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applestar
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Ooh! I’m so low-tech I’m hitting my non-auntomatic with a hammer. I’ll look for this gadget when I go buy more screws. Thanks!

...I think you told me about this before... :oops:

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Gary350
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What are you calling TEK screws? How about several photos. What are you drilling a hole in, I can't imagine anyone breaking a drill bit off in wood especially 5/16". . Let me see a picture of your, drill bit, electric drill, TEK screws, material your drilling holes in. What are you building?

TEK screws are self drilling in metal like roofing & siding but not made for thick metal. They also screw into wood.

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applestar
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Thanks for taking interest in my project @Gary350 :bouncey:

Broke two more drill-bits today—one regular and one titanium coated. Tip of the titanium one broke off when I tried to FIX the hole in which the regular one snapped in half — I guess I learned not to do that again ... presumably, it’s better to treat that kind of hole as a lost cause — I could feel the irregularities in the hole edges that the first bit had made while going bonkers and breaking off, it really should be no surprise that the 2nd drill bit couldn’t overcome them. (my giant case of multiple types of drill bits is stocked with about 4 of this size for each type — that should have told me something right there.)

Originally sought tek screws for securing these aluminum channels (bottom-left photo) which is used with “wiggle wire” to hold the plastic film on the hoophouse — not so hard to get through the channels and not especially hard if mounting on 1/2” or 3/4” pvc, but need pilot holes for 1-1/2” and 2” pipes — but not too difficult. Also using tek screws for brace bands, etc. and stabilizing connecting fixtures.
9CADF190-759B-4841-B5BD-E32F68D4F5D5.jpeg
It’s when mounting to 1/2” emt and chain link fence top rails as well as line posts that the pilot holes and tek screws become more difficult to handle. Also have been needing to drill holes for carriage bolts — which requires pilot holes drilled through, followed by a 5/16” bit.

I have been told slow is normal and actually desirable when drilling into metal, and my use of a drop of oil was approved. I did get the auto-punch and magnetic hex driver bit this morning which has improved and eliminated the tedious extra steps and dropped screws. (I also got hinges for the door and window, as well as polyurethane for the wood elements. Yay. :D )

BUT BRRRR!!! It was WAY too cold and windy today — more like winter weather — so I couldn’t do a whole lot, though I did secure one end of the purlin and the hoops onto the 1/2" emt shoulder rail on one side. Original plan was to mount the wiggle wire tracks on the two end wall cross beams, but I realized I couldn’t do that without stabilizing the roof hoops first..... I thought I was going to secure the hoops AND mount the wiggle wire channel on the end cross beams as well as BOTH the shoulder rails TODAY.... :?

I even had hopes of starting on the doorframe after that, though I knew THAT was a long shot. :roll:


(BTW — I’m calling these "TEK screws" because that’s what was recommended for mounting the aluminum channels, and this box of screws was what they sold me at True Value hardware store when I asked for TEK screws and showed pictures of what I was using them for.)

pepperhead212
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That does seem like a large size drill bit to break! If you will be drilling a large number of those in the future, you may want to invest in a drill press. Probably what is causing the bits to break is not keeping the drill bit in a perfectly straight line, once the bit is through the thick pipe. They have some relatively inexpensive presses at Harbor Freight, and they always have those 20% off coupons on one item. It's easy to build a fence, to clamp the pipe against, and the presses can be set at very low speeds.

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Gary350
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Where did you buy your drill bits? You should buy from a local Industrial supply company good drill bits cost less than hardware store drill bits. Hardware stores sells 5/16" drill bits for $3 each. Industrial supply sells 5/16" for 30 cents each. Titanium coating is just something that sells better and makes the seller more money. Buy the dark blue color steel drill bits. American made is still better than Harbor Freight or china but if your careful and know the science about drilling metal Harbor Freight & china drill bits are usually fine.

Aluminum is gummy metal it will clog up the drill bit and cause it to get stuck. If your drill has too much power it will break off the drill bit. Use a less powerful drill or buy a drill with a torch setting. Set torque low enough if drill gets stuck it stalls out the drill and does not break off the drill bit. Use oil to lube the drill bit and TEK screws they drill better especially in aluminum.

Brass is a strange metal it does not like to be drilled or cut. Drill bit needs to be razor sharp and 5 degree tip cutting angle needs to be changed to 2 degrees to keep the drill bit from getting stuck. Oil is helpful here too.

TEK screws have heat treated tips are hardened to drill just like a drill bit. They are designed mostly for steal but they do good on thin aluminum and wood.

You should run your drill RPM slow in hard metals and faster in medium hard metals and much faster in aluminum. Small diameter drill bits need to run very fast, the larger the drill bit diameter the slower it should run. 5/16" drill should about 900 RPMs in the metal your drilling.

If a drill bit or TEK screw turns too fast it generates too much heat and burns up the sharp drill cutting tip then it will no longer drill.

Round pipe needs to be center punched. I would drill a 1/8" pilot hole first then drill it again with 5/16". This makes drilling much easier you can run the 1/8" drill about 1800 RPMs and drill a quick easy hole then 900 RPM with 5/16" it will drill the smaller hole larger very easy you don't have to push very hard to make it drill.

Cold weather makes steel brittle drill bits will break much easier.

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applestar
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Thanks @Gary350! I’m going to study your instructions in the morning when my head is clearer — this is very interesting!

...what SHOULD I be doing with drilled out shavings that get stuck to the magnetized (I keep the drill bit on the magnetic tray on the drill) and oily drill bit? If need to keep drill bit clean, How do I get them off?

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Gary350
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applestar wrote:Thanks @Gary350! I’m going to study your instructions in the morning when my head is clearer — this is very interesting!

...what SHOULD I be doing with drilled out shavings that get stuck to the magnetized (I keep the drill bit on the magnetic tray on the drill) and oily drill bit? If need to keep drill bit clean, How do I get them off?
You need a demagnetizer but they are expensive just wipe chips off the drill bit with a rag when it is not spinning.



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