Light source is the sun but its in a shade... from 7pm there will be an artificial light turned on almost directly above it for the entire night until sunrise. But now I know what to do.^^ thanks for the suggestion!rainbowgardener wrote:Mushy stems is a very bad sign and may mean your seedlings aren't going to make it.
What are you using for light source? Your seedlings are all leaning towards the light, which suggestioney aren't getting enough light.
Because your container isn't full of soil, the seedlings are sitting down in the shadow and air circulation barrier of the container.
I would expect them all to be at least showing true leaves by now, if they were doing well.
You said you are not over watering, but say more about how, how often, how much you water.
I have found it best to water seedlings from the bottom, just putting the containers in a tray with a little water and let them soak it up.
Temperature in the day: 86-95 ÂºFapplestar wrote:Yep. Tomato seedlings in good light would have darker, sometimes almost purplish stems.
What is the temperature there (day and night). That might be affecting their growths as well. Tomato seedlings grow best somewhat slowly in 50's-60's Â°F into sturdier seedlings, but grow faster in mid 70'sÂ°F.
If this is a indoor setup, they will grow stronger if you aim a fan at them for a few hours each day. In a humid environment, it's best to grow seedlings in containers filled to the top for better air circulation and movement (as well as keeping the tops of the seedlings closer to the light) like rainbowgardener said. With lower humidity or with good air circulation going, you can grow them lower in the container and fill up with more soil mix as the seedlings grow as long as you are supplying strong/high intensity light.
BTW these are going to get crowded pretty soon -- were you just using this container as a "seed flat" and plan to prick them out and pot them up individually, or were you planning to cull the extras and grow the final plant(s) in this window box (because it doesn't look big enough actually).
Sorry but may I know what range of heat? How do I heat? Is 77-95 Âº F okay? As for the light I'll follow what rainbowgardener and applestar said^^ thanks^^imafan26 wrote:I agree light and heat are needed. I wouldn't call them a goner yet, but unless you can get more light on them and heat them up more, they won't catch up.
Wow! 40!!!evtubbergh wrote:I just grew more than 40 cherry tomato plants! lol
But they also had a slow start after their first growth and looked just like that for a while. My beefsteak tomatoes still look like that.
Dry them out a bit. I see moisture beading on the sides there. Do what everyone said and check the base of the stems for blackening and narrowing. If they do they have damp off (I lost another 10 seedling to damp off). If you get damp off you need to do more of everything the others just advised.
I also find that my tomatoes don't need much hardening off and I even gave them some quite hectic sun at this stage.
Lastly, I gave my seedlings all a weak solution of a liquid seedling food with gibberelic acid. I think it really helped (except my damn beefsteaks).
evtubbergh wrote:Hi there
Damp-off is a fungal disease that seedlings sometimes get where the base of the stem rots and then the seedling falls over. If you can get to two large real leaves then you will be fine. The excess moisture can cause fungal disease. Bacteria would actually be good.
Don't over-do the light, give them some dark at night. They need to rest too. You also don't have to do sun right now, shade is fine, I just had to as they were indoors and getting a little weedy and my back yard is very sunny in the day. Also I kept forgetting them out there. Thank goodness they are the easiest to harden off!
They do need to go in the sun once they have true leaves though.
You don't have to feed them, especially at this early stage but as they start to develop some true leaves you can feed them a half-strength liquid fertiliser if you want. I would use general fertiliser. The one I used was an organic NPK 8-2-6 with micronutrients.
Follow the instructions and always remember that with fertiliser, less is more. Rather do low strength and more often.
Grow them about 15 cm apart at minimum and then feed often if they are that close. If you have too many then rather take out the weakest ones.
PS I do that all the time then give them away, lol
PPS Where are you? You can't be in the Northern Hemisphere if you're starting tomatoes, right? Update your profile. It helps people answer questions better.
The bottom leaf is the first pair of true leaves.applestar wrote:If the "bottom leaf" is the seed leaves, they turn yellow and drop off if there is sufficient soil fertility and they are not needed to feed the plant. By watering more, you may have allowed the fertilizer (if dry pellets as described in the cosmos thread) or existing nutrients in the soil to be released.
I'm wondering if they have not been getting enough water if they are being cared for in the same way as cosmos. Aphids and mites will also attack tomato seedlings. Are there ants on them too?
OMG! I only realised now how slow my plants are growing... haha^^rainbowgardener wrote:Wow, you do have patience! I would have likely given up on them a long time ago. Day 58, if that is from seed sprouting, you should have a full sized plant with ripe tomatoes by now. If day 58 is from when you planted the seed, you still should have a full sized plant with tomatoes on it. Something isn't working right.
Tomatoes are full sun plants. They need at least six, preferably more like 8 hrs of direct sun daily.
You said these are outdoors. Are they still crowded in the one pot? I would consider giving some of them their own pots at least 10 cm in diameter (if the plants are still small). While you are up potting take a look at the root system. In my experience, when plants are just sitting there, not growing but not dying, often something has happened to the root system. It should have a healthy amount of roots, as deep underneath as the plant is tall and bushy and well branched, white and firm.
Oh oh... I don't know the variety. I lost the seed packaging... But I don't think they are dwarf varieties because now they are growing really quickly compared to before although there are still some which are small seedlings with only a small pair of true leaves. Good news! I guess it's either because of more water or more fertiliser because it grew faster after I listened to the advices given on the forum (giving more water until surface turns dry). But those still small seemed to be less exposed to light... I don't know... Never mind^^ Thanks for your help^^ I would have felt really lost without your helpapplestar wrote:Very interesting. They look healthy, with good internodes (distances between leaf nodes) on the stem. Not elongated or spindly like they are lacking light. There is one in the back that DOES look a little bit light starved, but not enough to be concerned.
They actually look somewhat as though they could be dwarf varieties with shorter internodes, and if so, the one in the back could be a regular indeterminate stray. Did you mention what variety these are? Are they sold as container or patio type? If they are genetic dwarfs, it could explain the slow growth to some extent.