Planting Hicks Yews
I have an area of 20 feet that I plan to plant Hicks Yews. I purchased 8 of them and they are young -, about 3-4 feet. Is this the correct amount for this distance? What is the recommended distance and what is the best soil mix and possibly 50 loam/50 peat? Also, any advice on if any fertilizer or nutrients should be added and Nitrogen, Phosphorous, etc?
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grandpasrose
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Hi Rocky!
Hicks Yew is actually a cross between an english and a japanese species. In maturity, it can grow to a height of 8-10 feet, depending on variety. There are several different growth shapes to them, depending on which one you have chosen. They can be columnar, globular, vase-shaped, or spreading. They should have a spread of 24 to 36 inches depending again on which variety you have. So 8 could be enough for 20 feet, depending on if they were spreading or columnar.
They like to be placed in sun/partial shade to light shade and like the soil slightly on the alkaline side, but very fertile, with plenty of water. I don't think I would go so heavy on the peat in your mix, as it tends to dry out quickly. I would consider adding compost, rotted manure, shredded leaves to your loam. Also put in some bone meal to help those roots get established well right off the bat. They also do not tolerate strong winds well. They bear a pretty red berry in the fall - but beware, they are poisonous if eaten!
Yews are a pretty shrub, I have two myself, and they add a nice difference in texture to the garden.
Hope I have given you what you are looking for. Best of Luck!
VAL
Hicks Yew is actually a cross between an english and a japanese species. In maturity, it can grow to a height of 8-10 feet, depending on variety. There are several different growth shapes to them, depending on which one you have chosen. They can be columnar, globular, vase-shaped, or spreading. They should have a spread of 24 to 36 inches depending again on which variety you have. So 8 could be enough for 20 feet, depending on if they were spreading or columnar.
They like to be placed in sun/partial shade to light shade and like the soil slightly on the alkaline side, but very fertile, with plenty of water. I don't think I would go so heavy on the peat in your mix, as it tends to dry out quickly. I would consider adding compost, rotted manure, shredded leaves to your loam. Also put in some bone meal to help those roots get established well right off the bat. They also do not tolerate strong winds well. They bear a pretty red berry in the fall - but beware, they are poisonous if eaten!
Yews are a pretty shrub, I have two myself, and they add a nice difference in texture to the garden.
Hope I have given you what you are looking for. Best of Luck!
VAL
I have seen some of the berries already. I also have some dense and spreading yews which I planted last year and these have no berries. Is this normal?grandpasrose wrote:Hi Rocky!
Hicks Yew is actually a cross between an english and a japanese species. In maturity, it can grow to a height of 8-10 feet, depending on variety. There are several different growth shapes to them, depending on which one you have chosen. They can be columnar, globular, vase-shaped, or spreading. They should have a spread of 24 to 36 inches depending again on which variety you have. So 8 could be enough for 20 feet, depending on if they were spreading or columnar.
They like to be placed in sun/partial shade to light shade and like the soil slightly on the alkaline side, but very fertile, with plenty of water. I don't think I would go so heavy on the peat in your mix, as it tends to dry out quickly. I would consider adding compost, rotted manure, shredded leaves to your loam. Also put in some bone meal to help those roots get established well right off the bat. They also do not tolerate strong winds well. They bear a pretty red berry in the fall - but beware, they are poisonous if eaten!
Yews are a pretty shrub, I have two myself, and they add a nice difference in texture to the garden.
Hope I have given you what you are looking for. Best of Luck!
VAL
The shape of the Hicks look to be columular. Assuming a 24-36" spread , I was planning to plant about 2 ' 9" apart (7 distances X 2' 9" ) on center. Would you think within a year, I would see them starting to bridge the gap between them?
I already have these two products:. Would you advise using either now:
Phosphate
https://www.espoma.com/content.aspx?type=p&id=3&intCategoryID=3
Nitrogen
https://www.espoma.com/content.aspx?type=p&id=1&intCategoryID=1
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grandpasrose
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Rocky - only the female plants on yews have red berries, and I have noticed that mine don't do it every year.
Your distances sound good - although I'm not sure you should count on it filling in in a year, may be two. Yews take a while to settle in, but once they do, look out!
Putting the phosphate down would be okay right now, but I wouldn't put nitrogen in this close to the fall. You're wanting these shrubs to get a good footing, and develop a strong root system over the fall/winter season.
If you are adding all the amendments I suggested earlier, you shouldn't need to be adding much in the way of fertilizers. Next year, when spring comes, give them a top dressing of well rotted manure and compost, water them with some compost tea (2 shovels of compost in a large pail of water, steeped for about a week, stirred daily) diluted when you use it.
Best of Luck Rocky, and be sure to ask any other questions!
VAL
Your distances sound good - although I'm not sure you should count on it filling in in a year, may be two. Yews take a while to settle in, but once they do, look out!
Putting the phosphate down would be okay right now, but I wouldn't put nitrogen in this close to the fall. You're wanting these shrubs to get a good footing, and develop a strong root system over the fall/winter season.
If you are adding all the amendments I suggested earlier, you shouldn't need to be adding much in the way of fertilizers. Next year, when spring comes, give them a top dressing of well rotted manure and compost, water them with some compost tea (2 shovels of compost in a large pail of water, steeped for about a week, stirred daily) diluted when you use it.
Best of Luck Rocky, and be sure to ask any other questions!
VAL
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Guest
Evergreens prefer average soil with some acidity. Gravelly, sandy soil is fine with a yew. They cannot tolerate soggy or damp soils. Use a mulch of shredded leaves after planting.
If you have 'Hicksii' - its range is 15-25 feet hight with a spread of 5 to 10 feet. The maxium growth and spread will be upward of 5 years. Be accurate in giving them enough space, especially if they will be growing in shade. You don't want to spend your summers having to hack them back.
The newly planted yews need a watering schedule for this fall. Water well on planting day, then water weekly, as needed, till mid September. Watering may bring on new growth which needs to harden off. Once the new growth color darkens and branches harden, start watering again till the first hard frost. A spring feeding of fish fertilizer gets evergreens going.
If you have 'Hicksii' - its range is 15-25 feet hight with a spread of 5 to 10 feet. The maxium growth and spread will be upward of 5 years. Be accurate in giving them enough space, especially if they will be growing in shade. You don't want to spend your summers having to hack them back.
The newly planted yews need a watering schedule for this fall. Water well on planting day, then water weekly, as needed, till mid September. Watering may bring on new growth which needs to harden off. Once the new growth color darkens and branches harden, start watering again till the first hard frost. A spring feeding of fish fertilizer gets evergreens going.
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grandpasrose
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The Helpful Gardener
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Well, I have decided on a different location for the yews, and the length is probably closer to about 36’.The Helpful Gardener wrote: I have known this plant for decades and have seen some older than me, one nearly a hundred, and I've never seen a 10' wide 'Hicksii'. If Rocky wants them to touch in his lifetime he needs all eight of 'em...
Scott
My current plan is 4’ on center and I'll put them in a 10â€
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grandpasrose
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Hey Rocky! If you are putting your yews on 4' centres for 36 feet, are you having one on each end? If you are, then you would need 9 bushes instead of 8.
Previously you said these were columnar yews, whose mature size is supposed to be 36 '' wide. If you are wanting this to be a solid hedge to fill right in, then they will be too far apart.
Using a raised bed is fine. I would do a PH test after you have put your loam and aged manure in before I added any lime. It may not need it.
Also, if you are going to use an acidic mulch, you should keep that in mind when deciding whether to put lime in or not.
You'll get there Rocky! The fun is all in the planning and dreaming!
VAL
Previously you said these were columnar yews, whose mature size is supposed to be 36 '' wide. If you are wanting this to be a solid hedge to fill right in, then they will be too far apart.
Using a raised bed is fine. I would do a PH test after you have put your loam and aged manure in before I added any lime. It may not need it.
Also, if you are going to use an acidic mulch, you should keep that in mind when deciding whether to put lime in or not.
You'll get there Rocky! The fun is all in the planning and dreaming!
VAL
Yes, you are correct in your distance calculation. I actually will try to purchase a few more yews, but I know I need to be able to get the exact same ones as these, or else they may grow differently. I have had that experience with some dense yews. I have the flexibility to go at least 28-30’ with these and can go further if I can get more yews. Right now I was planning to go 42" on center and plant the 8 as far as I can go with them. Is this still too far? I thought the spread would be 4-5' for these. Please let me know as soon as you can on the “bestâ€grandpasrose wrote:Hey Rocky! If you are putting your yews on 4' centres for 36 feet, are you having one on each end? If you are, then you would need 9 bushes instead of 8.
Previously you said these were columnar yews, whose mature size is supposed to be 36 '' wide. If you are wanting this to be a solid hedge to fill right in, then they will be too far apart.
Using a raised bed is fine. I would do a PH test after you have put your loam and aged manure in before I added any lime. It may not need it.
Also, if you are going to use an acidic mulch, you should keep that in mind when deciding whether to put lime in or not.
You'll get there Rocky! The fun is all in the planning and dreaming!
VAL
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grandpasrose
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The maximum mature size for this variety - "Taxus X Media Hicksii Yew" is 36 inches. So if you are wanting these close in together, I would plant them closer than 42". I would probably go to 38" at the most, and even then, you may end up with some thin spots when it is mature.
I have one of this variety, and they really don't get much bigger than what is stated.
Hope this helps!
VAL
I have one of this variety, and they really don't get much bigger than what is stated.
Hope this helps!
VAL
These Hicks yews are categorized as 18-24", but they are close to 24â€grandpasrose wrote:The maximum mature size for this variety - "Taxus X Media Hicksii Yew" is 36 inches. So if you are wanting these close in together, I would plant them closer than 42". I would probably go to 38" at the most, and even then, you may end up with some thin spots when it is mature.
I have one of this variety, and they really don't get much bigger than what is stated.
Hope this helps!
VAL
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grandpasrose
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Hey Rocky! I feel better about your spacing now - I hope you will when you see the result! Your yews are rated for sun to partial shade, so I would think you should be fine with yours. Mine get direct sunlight for the full day, and are doing great!
Your bed that you are building sounds like it will very nice. I love being able to start with a nice fresh bed and plan it and see it grow! It sounds like you have put a lot of thought into this Rocky, and that is good, as it's harder to go back and change things later.
Let us know how it's going, and maybe send us a picture when you can!
VAL
Your bed that you are building sounds like it will very nice. I love being able to start with a nice fresh bed and plan it and see it grow! It sounds like you have put a lot of thought into this Rocky, and that is good, as it's harder to go back and change things later.
Let us know how it's going, and maybe send us a picture when you can!
VAL
Hi,
I need some more advice, since you've been very helpful. I do have some recent planting experience, having planted a significant number of shrubs of various types this summer in 4 new beds, and another group last fall. I just want a reality check to see if I'm going in the right direction for planting these yews. One of the reasons that I have been discussing this for so long is that I needed to pick up a few more of the yews for the spacing I required and I have been busy with other landscape projects. I have been putting down landscape fabric and remulching some beds.
I now have 12 yews and they are bound and burlapped and, from my experience I think these rootballs will be tight and hard have some clay. What do you think is the best way to plant them and to free the roots? Should I cut slits in each side, try to soak the rootballs initially, or just fill the planting hole with water after I put the plant in? I was planning on a hole for each that is about 3X as large around as the rootball and double the height of the rootball. Since it is in a raised bed which is about the height of the rootball, this means that I will dig into the earth the depth of the rootball in addition to the height of the raised bed. Do you agree with this? Also, what would you advise as the distance above the bed that the top of the rootball is exposed. After the plant is in, I would put in some plant food, 16-4-8, and then I will cover the bed with landscape fabric, and use cedar mulch.
I appreciate your help.
I need some more advice, since you've been very helpful. I do have some recent planting experience, having planted a significant number of shrubs of various types this summer in 4 new beds, and another group last fall. I just want a reality check to see if I'm going in the right direction for planting these yews. One of the reasons that I have been discussing this for so long is that I needed to pick up a few more of the yews for the spacing I required and I have been busy with other landscape projects. I have been putting down landscape fabric and remulching some beds.
I now have 12 yews and they are bound and burlapped and, from my experience I think these rootballs will be tight and hard have some clay. What do you think is the best way to plant them and to free the roots? Should I cut slits in each side, try to soak the rootballs initially, or just fill the planting hole with water after I put the plant in? I was planning on a hole for each that is about 3X as large around as the rootball and double the height of the rootball. Since it is in a raised bed which is about the height of the rootball, this means that I will dig into the earth the depth of the rootball in addition to the height of the raised bed. Do you agree with this? Also, what would you advise as the distance above the bed that the top of the rootball is exposed. After the plant is in, I would put in some plant food, 16-4-8, and then I will cover the bed with landscape fabric, and use cedar mulch.
I appreciate your help.
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grandpasrose
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Hi Rocky!! You sure have been doing alot of work this summer!!
To plant your yews that are wrapped in tight burlap bundles, set them first in some air temperature water until they have absorbed some and are softer.
Before putting your shrubs in the hole, I would put in a little bone meal, some compost, and some leaf mould. Then place your shrub in the hole ( you have a good size for the hole), and gently untie the burlap and remove it. Ensure that you are planting the shrub with the original soil line ( you can see a distinct mark on the stem where it was originally covered in soil) level with the top of the soil in your hole.
Fill the hole in, ensuring that no airpockets are left, firming it as you go. Once you have done this, you can form an irrigation basin around the shrub with some soil to make a ring around it to hold water around it. This is only if you prefer to. Then water your shrub in well.
I wouldn't put a fertilizer that was high in nitrogen in this close to the fall as you don't want the shrub to be putting out new growth right now, you want it to be working on it's roots.
Hope I have answered all of your questions - feel free to get back to me if not. Have fun!
VAL
To plant your yews that are wrapped in tight burlap bundles, set them first in some air temperature water until they have absorbed some and are softer.
Before putting your shrubs in the hole, I would put in a little bone meal, some compost, and some leaf mould. Then place your shrub in the hole ( you have a good size for the hole), and gently untie the burlap and remove it. Ensure that you are planting the shrub with the original soil line ( you can see a distinct mark on the stem where it was originally covered in soil) level with the top of the soil in your hole.
Fill the hole in, ensuring that no airpockets are left, firming it as you go. Once you have done this, you can form an irrigation basin around the shrub with some soil to make a ring around it to hold water around it. This is only if you prefer to. Then water your shrub in well.
I wouldn't put a fertilizer that was high in nitrogen in this close to the fall as you don't want the shrub to be putting out new growth right now, you want it to be working on it's roots.
Hope I have answered all of your questions - feel free to get back to me if not. Have fun!
VAL
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Guest
Whoa! quite a width range between my hicksii purchase of 30 + years ago and varieties sold today. My tags do state a 5-10 foot width average. To my knowledge, width range has always been an average based on slighly less than half the height average. I would think 10 feet would be a plant placed in optimal conditions. Never having paid attention to the width midway up on a hicksii I cannot debate the fact that no yew has ever attained 10 feet in width, as most older specimens, mine included, are thinned yearly at the mid point to avoid dieback at the bottom. I will have to investigate the newer varieties on my next nursery visit.
The two main concerns with yews is that they will not tolerate soggy conditons nor being planted to deep. The top of the soil ball should be at or slightly above ground level.
County extension soil testing of a gravel drive we wanted to use to create privacy revealed a slightly acid soil. The recommended planting was columnar yews planted in two staggered rows, which have evolved into more a screen than a dense hedge.
Yews are one of the easiest, most forgiving evergreens to plant. That's why one sees them everywhere. Sun, part sun, shade, acid or alkaline soil. Feed early once a year. Your plants roots will travel and probably get a dose of lawn food along the way. Mine also get a dose of Holly Tone when plantings to their north get that feeding.
The two main concerns with yews is that they will not tolerate soggy conditons nor being planted to deep. The top of the soil ball should be at or slightly above ground level.
County extension soil testing of a gravel drive we wanted to use to create privacy revealed a slightly acid soil. The recommended planting was columnar yews planted in two staggered rows, which have evolved into more a screen than a dense hedge.
Yews are one of the easiest, most forgiving evergreens to plant. That's why one sees them everywhere. Sun, part sun, shade, acid or alkaline soil. Feed early once a year. Your plants roots will travel and probably get a dose of lawn food along the way. Mine also get a dose of Holly Tone when plantings to their north get that feeding.
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grandpasrose
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Thanks for your added info!
There are a lot of different varieties out now, and the ones you bought 30 years ago are probably not even the same ones Rocky is speaking of.
As far as ph for yews is concerned, I have copied a couple of bits for your information:
From: https://www.davesgarden.com/pf/b/taxaceae/taxus/xmedia///
Genus: Taxus
Cultivar: Hicksii
Height: 8-10 ft.
Spacing: 24-36 in.
Sun Exposure: Sun to Partial Shade, Light Shade
Soil pH requirements: 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral), 7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)
From https://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder
Easily grown in average, medium wet, well-drained soils of near neutral pH in full sun to part shade.
From www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id52
Taxus is often planted near ornamentals in the heath family (e.g. andromeda, azalea, laurel, rhododendron). Species in this group are considered "acid-loving" plants and prefer a soil pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Taxus, on the other hand, requires a less acid soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5). Fertilizers prepared specifically for plants in the heath family tend to make soil more acidic. This can cause nearby Taxus shrubs to turn yellow and die. Soil which is naturally too acidic will also cause problems. Decline may occur over a period of several months.
I hope this helps clarify this issue.
VAL
There are a lot of different varieties out now, and the ones you bought 30 years ago are probably not even the same ones Rocky is speaking of.
As far as ph for yews is concerned, I have copied a couple of bits for your information:
From: https://www.davesgarden.com/pf/b/taxaceae/taxus/xmedia///
Genus: Taxus
Cultivar: Hicksii
Height: 8-10 ft.
Spacing: 24-36 in.
Sun Exposure: Sun to Partial Shade, Light Shade
Soil pH requirements: 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral), 7.6 to 7.8 (mildly alkaline)
From https://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder
Easily grown in average, medium wet, well-drained soils of near neutral pH in full sun to part shade.
From www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id52
Taxus is often planted near ornamentals in the heath family (e.g. andromeda, azalea, laurel, rhododendron). Species in this group are considered "acid-loving" plants and prefer a soil pH of 4.5 to 5.5. Taxus, on the other hand, requires a less acid soil (pH 6.0 to 6.5). Fertilizers prepared specifically for plants in the heath family tend to make soil more acidic. This can cause nearby Taxus shrubs to turn yellow and die. Soil which is naturally too acidic will also cause problems. Decline may occur over a period of several months.
I hope this helps clarify this issue.
VAL