Thanks for the explanation.Fuller's earth is fine clay. Diatomaceous Earth is fossil skeleton of diatoms. Not the same at all.
No to the soil. There is usually no actual soil in bonsai soil. I use Pine bark as the organic component for my stuff. Particle size is very important and garden/potting soil is way too fine.so do you plant bonsai in straight de or mix it with soil?
You must have one heck of an industrial strength blender.I also have a bunch of terracotta pots(thats the red clay pots right?) I was going to grind them up in a blender and mix it with the de.Is that a good potting mix?
That is correct, I have my Juniper in a mix of roughly half Haydite (fired shale) and lava rock with a little bark. These 'premium' components are more costly, that is why they are not used for mass produced bonsai. They are also heavier and would increase shipping costs.when I water it the soil stays wet for days so I cant help but think it needs to dry out a little faster .
Thanks Cynthia. I didn't buy the pool grade filter type. I think that's more of a powder. I bought the oil dry type that they talk about in the article. I plan on wetting it down to cut down on the dust.cynthia_h wrote:Be CAREFUL with Diatomaceous Earth!
There is DE for swimming pools--do NOT NOT NOT use this on your plants. Do NOT breathe it, handle it without training, etc.
Then there is DE that is safe for use in gardens, and believe me 25 quarts will not cost only $8.00. I purchased a 1- or 2-pound BOX of it for about $8 at my local garden-supply store earlier this year. It's still not for breathing, but it's at least safe for use on food plants and doesn't have the nasties associated with swimming-pool-grade DE.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
My screens are 1/8" and 1/4". My general mix is comprised of material that fall through the 1/4" and stays on top of the 1/8" so it is in that range, with the bulk of it being closer to the small end.This product, after sifting has an average diameter of 1/8" which strikes me as kind of fine. A question for the resident experts: how fine is your soil, typically?
No problems Gnome. I've modded a forum myself before, and those things happen.Gnome wrote:Cuda,
My apologies, it seems I inadvertently deleted your most recent post here. I had this page up in one tab and was doing something else in another. When I came back I noticed the triple post and began to delete two of them. Unfortunately it seems you edited two of them in the meantime and, not having refreshed my screen, I deleted the one you chose to leave.
But you're in New Mexico.bewildered_nmsu wrote:This oil absorbent doesn't swell at all, and from what I've seen it retains moisture surprisingly well for an inert substance. However, I have two concerns. 1) The product is two fine for all but shohin. and 2) After a couple seasons of repeated freezing and thawing it will turn into an airless mush.
They have it here at the Monastery for about $20 for a 50 lb. bag. Maybe just slightly more expensive than the DE but maybe worth it if there's any doubt that the DE isn't going to work out.Gnome wrote:bewildered,
I believe that it is more like Turface which is a fired clay material. You will probably find that Turface is much less expensive, if you can locate it.By the way, is that Shultz aquatic soil another DE product?