I've been travelling and out of the bonsai game for 2 years. I just picked up two new ones around 3 weeks ago. The only problem child is my red maple, which must have had too much heat, and WIND!! I'm on the 17th floor and its had some rough times, though I'm not sure if wind can affect bonsai that much. *Edit, see below.
Anyways, I use submersion for watering but let it go too long (5-6 days) without a bath. Now the leaves are dried out, and only around 10% remain a little flexible. 2-3 days since last water, the soil is still moist.
Should I trim the branches that hold dry leaves, or just the stems/leaves themselves? What do I do?!
Thanks!
PS- Found this: Give plants with thin leaves such as Japanese Maples, extra protection as they are at greater risk of leaf damage from the wind.
Source: https://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/BasicsWind.htm
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- Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
simplex,
Hello and welcome to the site. Sorry to see your tree in such a state. Once Maple leaves get to such a state they will look bad until new ones come in so don't get your hopes up that it will look great.
I do not think I would be too hasty in removing anything just yet, certainly do not remove any branches. In a week or so you will probably know which leaves are fried and which ones may still be partially functional, if damaged.
The leaves that dry and are obviously dead can then be removed. Cut the leaves off by cutting through the petiole, or leaf stem, leaving the stub. It will drop off in due course. Perhaps after some new leaves come in the leaves that you left may be able to be removed later in the season. In effect you will be removing the damaged leaves in stages.
You should know that this is just an educated guess on my part and I'm not especially confident that your tree will recover but it is worth a shot. Please keep us updated.
Norm
Hello and welcome to the site. Sorry to see your tree in such a state. Once Maple leaves get to such a state they will look bad until new ones come in so don't get your hopes up that it will look great.
I do not think I would be too hasty in removing anything just yet, certainly do not remove any branches. In a week or so you will probably know which leaves are fried and which ones may still be partially functional, if damaged.
The leaves that dry and are obviously dead can then be removed. Cut the leaves off by cutting through the petiole, or leaf stem, leaving the stub. It will drop off in due course. Perhaps after some new leaves come in the leaves that you left may be able to be removed later in the season. In effect you will be removing the damaged leaves in stages.
You should know that this is just an educated guess on my part and I'm not especially confident that your tree will recover but it is worth a shot. Please keep us updated.
Norm
- Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
simplex,
The thing is that it is not usually performed until midsummer. Your tree expended all of its energy to produce the first crop of leaves and by defoliating too early it is in danger of running out of gas, so to speak. Also you do not know the history of your tree and defoliating is not usually done the same year as re-potting.
There is not much you can do right now except wait. It will take several (two to three) weeks before you will know. In the meantime you will need to adjust your watering practices, with no leaves the trees water usage will drop off. Make sure that you do not let it dry out again though.
Norm
Ok, you are in a much better position than I to judge the condition of the tree. BTW I never expected them to recover but perhaps to function partially in the short term.I removed all the leaves. None were recoverable.
Defoliation, either partial or complete, is a common practice with Japanese Maples. This technique is intended to increase the finer twigs and refine trees so a total defoliation is definitely a recoverable event.How related are the leaves to the tree? It seems the damage is localized to the leaves only.
The thing is that it is not usually performed until midsummer. Your tree expended all of its energy to produce the first crop of leaves and by defoliating too early it is in danger of running out of gas, so to speak. Also you do not know the history of your tree and defoliating is not usually done the same year as re-potting.
There is not much you can do right now except wait. It will take several (two to three) weeks before you will know. In the meantime you will need to adjust your watering practices, with no leaves the trees water usage will drop off. Make sure that you do not let it dry out again though.
Norm